Serpentine belt

Engine Mechanical problem 6 cyl Two Wheel Drive Automatic 120000 miles

Hello!
How is the spring loaded belt tensioner moved so that the belt can be removed? Neither the Chilton's manual or the instructions on Hyundai's site describe this enough or accurately. Hyundai's site indicates to use a 16mm spaner (sic). The Chilton book says to use a long ratchet or breaker bar. There appear to be only 2 bolts holding the tensoner assembly to the engine, but it seems like I may have only to push the pulley downward to loosen the tension. I can't see how to do this without leveraging against another pulley and/or the belt itself, risking damage. This is a 2.7L V6. Any help would be truly appreciated!
Thank You - Lawrence

Thank you for the quick response. The block at 3 o'clock is not nearly as square as that in the diagram. In the uploaded photo, you can see how it doesn't even look designed to take a spanner - the upper side is curved. It's also about 14 1/2 mm wide. I must be missing something basic here: is the entire arm and pulley supposed to be rotated clockwise to reduce the tension enough to remove the belt? I'm assuming that 'tensioner lever' is the entire arm with the pulley at the end.
Thanks Again - Lawrence

A poster in alt. Autos. Hyundai cleared things up. There's a square at the end of the tensioner arm right in front of the pulley made for a 3/8" ratchet. After placing the square of the ratchet there I needed only to apply my body weight to easily remove the belt. The Hyundai site and the Chilton's manual are both incorrect, and don't even depict the ratchet hole. Thank you for all your help - I had never worked with a tensioner arm before and am a little embarrassed that I didn't understand what I needed to do. Thanks Again.

Would either of you happen to know how to remove the bolts to be able to replace the serpentine belt tensioner?

The illustration posted earlier is no help in identifying how to release the tension. The wrench is applied to the bottom of the tension arm, NOT to that little tab at the top of the arm assembly.

I regret bothering to sign up just to set this issue straight. But I was NOT wrong.

The later information about a 3/8" ratchet hole only applies to later models of the tensioner.

Anyone relying upon your "red shaded area" will be lost if they have the early version and attempt to use either the first descriptions posted above or your reference.

I added that information and the crude illustration that I created simply because I had searched for the answer of "How to" do this through Google and discovered your website. I was replacing an AC compressor on one of these cars for someone and then had to finally discover how to do it. The HARD way. And "yes" there is room for the wrench (17mm or a large Crecent Wrench) to release the tention of the belt. I did it just as I illustrated, to take the belt off and to put it back on.

I have plenty to do in my life without stopping to help others. But it's in my nature to do so. And I am not the one in this discussion with the bad attitude or has an issue with self esteem. Apparently it's very important to you to be right (even when you're wrong.)

I simply thought I'd take the time to help the next guy who comes along since, the person originally asking the question is not the only one receiving the answer in these days of Google. I'm an old man who has worked on cars since my first Model A HotRod with an Oldsmobile engine, Lincoln rearend, hydraulic brakes, etc. Probably decades before you were born.

Old-n-Grey is 100% correct in identifying the newer tensioner and its use of a 3/8 socket wrench and the older tensioner which has no such point for the socket wrench to attach. He was also correct in stating that the first 2 pictures did absolutely nothing to help one understand how the tensioner pulley should be slackened.

Also, Old-n-Grey was not at all confrontational and was not at all in the wrong. You were KHLow2008 by stating, "Hi Old-n-Grey, Sorry you got it wrong." When in fact he had a better understanding of the part and its revisions then you do.

Hey guys, have a follow up on this issue. I had been using a 3/8 ratchet and top half of my jack as a breaker, rotating clockwise as specified. Belt off, part changed, belt on, all good. I had to take the belt off again today as I believe the compressor bearings are shot, but when I attempted to loosen the belt the same way, the idler pulley assembly (is that right?) Actually cracked, leaving me with 2 of the 4 sides of the ratchet hole (above red shaded area). Obviously, I cannot use a ratchet or breaker bar any longer, but the belt is still on and tight. I assume I will need to replace the assembly so I can get belt back on later, but does anyone have some advice for taking the belt off now? I read that cutting it is really bad, and I cannot get any type of grip or leverage to move the pulley to loosen the belt. Help!

Size and number for the belt
hyundai santafe 2003 2.7 L