Key won't turn ignition

Tiny
YARD
  • MEMBER
  • 2001 SAAB 9-5
  • 85,000 MILES
My 2001 Saab 9-5(AT) key no longer turns my ignition. I've tried spraying cleaner and lube into the lock barrel and tapping it with a mallet but no difference. In order to remove the lock barrel the key needs to be in the "off" position instead of the "lock" position. How do I remove the lock barrel without being able to turn the key to "off"? Will forcing the lock with a large screwdriver and wrench enable turning the switch to off?

Thank you!
Monday, July 9th, 2012 AT 3:59 PM

2 Replies

Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
  • MECHANIC
  • 11,004 POSTS
HAVE YOU TRIED A DIFFERENT KEY?

WHAT ABOUT TILTING THE COLUMN TO A DIFFERENT POSITION?

SORRY I DON'T KNOW YOUR CAR WELL--SEE IF THESE HELP---WITHOUT DOING DAMAGE

ON JEEP CJs, THE CYLINDER MUST BE IN THE "ON POSITION" TO GET THAT PUPPY OUT. DRILLING OUT THE "KEY HOLE" AND SNATCHING OUT THE INNER TUMBLER LETS ME USE A "PICK" TO PULL ON AND RELEASE THE TAB THAT IS AT THE OTHER END OF THE "OUTER CYLINDER". PULLING THIS TAB INWARD (TOWARD WHERE THE TUMBLER WAS) RELEASES THE "OUTER CYLINDER OR BARREL"

NORMALLY THE STEERING WHEEL/ HORN COMPONENTS/ TURN SIGNAL SWITCH MUST BE REMOVED TO GET TO THE TAB TO PUSH IT (KEY ON)

THIS JEEP CJ (GM STYLE) KEY SWITCH IS NOTORIOUS FOR BEING ABLE TO TURN WITHOUT THE KEY IN IT, THE KEYS WILL COME OUT WHILE DRIVING, ONCE IT GETS WORN. THEY WERE MADE BETWEEN '76 AND '86 AND MANY ARE STILL GOING STRONG. OUTTA GET YOU ONE!

THEY ARE A PAIN TO REMOVE "BY THE BOOK". DRILLING A CJ IS THE FAST WAY TO GO! I CAN HAVE AN OLD ONE OUT AND A NEW ONE IN IN LESS THAN 5 MINUTES!

THE ONLY TIME I EVER ANYMORE PULL THE STEERING WHEEL IS TO REPLACE THE TURN SIGNAL SWITCH

I ANSWER THE CJ 5 AND 7 FORUMS THE MOST, AS I HAVE MUCH MORE EXPERIENCE WITH THEM

***IF YOU ARE GONNA DRILL.I SUGGEST THAT YOU HAVE THE REPLACEMENT IN YOUR HAND! THIS MAY SORTA CLUE YOU IN ON HOW THE OLD ONE IS IN THERE AND THE BEST WAY TO ATTACK IT WITH A DRILL.

THEY MAKE "STOPS" IN DIFFERENT SIZES, THEY ARE CHEAP ABD CAN BE FOUND AT HARDWARE STORES. THEY ARE SORTA COLLARS THAT CAN BE LOCKED ONTO A DRILL BIT. THESE COLLARS USUALLY HAVE AN "ALLEN SCREW" THAT LOCKS IT ONTO THE BIT. THIS IS VERY HELPFUL IN "STOPPING" THE DARN DRILL BIT FROM DIGGING TOO DEEP!

LET ME KNOW HOW IT GOES

THE MEDIC
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Monday, July 9th, 2012 AT 11:17 PM
Tiny
SUNNYSUNOCO
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
YOU WILL HAVE TO DRILL OUT THE INSIDE OF THE LOCK CYLINDER. VACUUM OUT METAL AS YOU GO, STOP WHEN YOU CAN PUS LOCKING PIN IN AND REMOVE SHELL OF OLD CYL BE CAREFULL NOT TO DRILL TO DEEP STOP AT BOTTOM OF TUMBLER START WITH A 1/4 BIT AND WORK YOUR WAY UP
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Tuesday, August 18th, 2015 AT 3:17 PM

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