Head gasket replacement instructions please?

Tiny
BELINDAANDREW
  • MEMBER
  • 2008 NISSAN PATHFINDER
  • 130,000 MILES
I have the vehicle listed above which has a suspected blown head gasket. I was quoted by a mechanic that the price would be around $5,000.00 due to the fact that they have to replace the fuel line injectors this is before they have started taking the motor apart. Is it a must to replace fuel line injectors when taking off the head? Thankyou
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Monday, September 3rd, 2012 AT 4:45 AM

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Tiny
DANNY L
  • MECHANIC
  • 5,648 POSTS
Hello, I'm Danny.

It is not necessary to replace the fuel injectors for a cylinder head gasket. but yes, the fuel injector rail will need to be removed to perform the cylinder head gasket replacement. It's possible a fuel injector or injectors failed and caused this cylinder head gasket failure. Here is a tutorial for you to view on cylinder head gasket issues:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/head-gasket-blown-test

I've attached picture steps below on cylinder head gasket replacement steps for your vehicle. Hope this helps and thanks for using 2CarPros.
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Sunday, February 21st, 2021 AT 9:23 PM
Tiny
LOBSTERKILLER
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 2002 NISSAN PATHFINDER
  • 6 CYL
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 105,000 MILES
I think one of my Head Gaskets is done. I am leaking coolant (near the back of the engine, not anywhere near the radiator). What would the costs be for this repair?

Thanks
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Wednesday, February 24th, 2021 AT 11:46 AM (Merged)
Tiny
BLUELIGHTNIN6
  • MECHANIC
  • 16,542 POSTS
Here is the labor charge for the job, just times it by the shop labor rate and the parts head and you will have the cost.

One Bank 22.5 hrs @ shop rate.
Both Banks 23.7 hrs @ shop rate.

Please let us know if you need anything else to get the problem fixed.
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Wednesday, February 24th, 2021 AT 11:46 AM (Merged)
Tiny
ROBERTABBA
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 2001 NISSAN PATHFINDER
  • 6 CYL
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 90,000 MILES
Hi! I had previously owned a 2001 PathfinderLE that blew a head gasket and currently own a 2004 Pathfinder SE -4WD.I was buying Nissan parts at the dealer and having a mechanic perform the 30K mile tuneups. The owner's manual never mentioned that you need to change thermostats and I would periodically ask the dealer about this and he would say-"never change thermostats"-(there are two). At about 85K the motor overheated and shortly thereafter I had a blown head gasket and possible cracked cylinder head.I got rid of the car then and bought a 2004 Pathfinder with 26K miles in A1 condition at the dealer.I now have the two thermostats changed at 30K mile intervals on the 2004. Do you agree that this will avert a recurrence of the head gasket problem?My 2004 runs great and is the best vehicle that I ever owned.I would greatly appreciate your input. There seems to be two schools of thought on this matter. Thanks so much. Robert T.
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Wednesday, February 24th, 2021 AT 11:46 AM (Merged)
Tiny
KEVIN12881
  • MEMBER
  • 336 POSTS
I have never heard any one say not to change a thermostat. They should not have two be changed that often though, but for the price, have at it. Also flush your radiator every 15K or sooner
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Wednesday, February 24th, 2021 AT 11:46 AM (Merged)
Tiny
ESTRADAMELISSA6
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 2001 NISSAN PATHFINDER
  • V6
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 164,784 MILES
Where are the head gaskets located and how do I know if I have blown them?
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Wednesday, February 24th, 2021 AT 11:47 AM (Merged)
Tiny
HMAC300
  • MECHANIC
  • 48,606 POSTS
They are beneath the cylinder heads and normally a coolant pressure check will show that or bubble in radiator or coolant tank pressurizing, or low compression between two spark plugs. this guide can help us find out.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/head-gasket-blown-test

Please run down this guide and report back.
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Wednesday, February 24th, 2021 AT 11:47 AM (Merged)
Tiny
TOSTICE
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 1995 NISSAN PATHFINDER
I have a Nissan Pathfinder with the 3.3 engine. It has water dripping out of the tailpipe-I observe it when the vehicle is sitting running-assume it is doing the same thing when driving.I checked for combustion gases with a NAPA kit-nothing.I believe the vehicle has a blown head gasket or a crack somewhere.
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Wednesday, February 24th, 2021 AT 11:47 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 108,005 POSTS
Hi,

A small amount of water is normal at startup. It is caused by condensation in the exhaust. However, it should not be constant. I'm going to add a link that explains how to check for a head gasket issue. Take a look through this link:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/head-gasket-blown-test

Here are the directions for the removal and replacement of the cylinder heads for gasket replacement. The attached pics correlate with these directions. Note that there is no listing for a 3.3L These directions are specific to a 3.0L V6.

______________________________________________________

1995 Nissan-Datsun Truck D21 Hardbody 2WD V6-2960cc 3.0L SOHC MFI (VG30E)
Removal
Vehicle Engine, Cooling and Exhaust Engine Cylinder Head Assembly Service and Repair Procedures Removal
REMOVAL

pic 1

1. Release fuel pressure. Disconnect negative battery cable.
2. Remove timing belt.

pic 2

pic 3

3. Drain coolant by removing drain plugs from both sides of cylinder block.

pic 4

4. Separate the ASCD and accelerator cables from the intake manifold collector.
5. Disconnect the following connectors:

AAC valve
Throttle sensor and throttle valve switch
ignition coil
Power transistor
EGR control solenoid valve
Air regulator
EGR temperature sensor (California models only)

6. Disconnect the water hoses from the collector, the heater hoses, and the PCV hose from the RH valve cover.
7. Disconnect the vacuum hoses for the canister, master cylinder, and fuel pressure regulator.
8. Disconnect the purge hose from the canister.
9. Disconnect the EGR tube, ground harness, and air duct hose.
10. Remove the fuel feed and fuel return hoses from the injector fuel rail.

pic 5

11. Disconnect all the injector harness connectors.
12. Remove the fuel rail assembly.
13. Disconnect the Engine temperature switch connector, Thermal transmitter harness connector, and the water hose from the thermostat housing.

pic 6

14. Loosen the intake manifold bolts in the order shown above and remove the intake manifold.

pic 7

15. Remove both camshaft sprockets.

pic 8

16. Remove rear timing belt cover, distributor, and ignition wires.

Note:Do not rotate distributor rotor after removing the distributor from the engine.
17. Remove the harness clamp from the RH valve cover.
18. Remove the front exhaust tube from the exhaust manifold.

pic 9

19. Remove the compressor and alternator. Remove the compressor and alternator brackets.

Rocker Arm Cover Assembly Sequence

pic 10

20. Remove both valve covers.

pic 11

21. In the exact order as shown above, remove the head bolts in 2 to 3 steps. Remove the cylinder head together with the exhaust manifold.

__________________________
Install

1995 Nissan-Datsun Truck D21 Hardbody 2WD V6-2960cc 3.0L SOHC MFI (VG30E)
Installation
Vehicle Engine, Cooling and Exhaust Engine Cylinder Head Assembly Service and Repair Procedures Installation
INSTALLATION

pic 12

1. Align crank sprocket alignment mark with mark on oil pump body as shown.
2. Confirm that knock pin on camshaft is set at the top.

pic 13

pic 14

3. Apply sealant to drain plug threads and install both drain plugs.

pic 15

4. Install exhaust manifolds. In the order shown above, torque to 18 - 22 Nm (13 - 16 ft.lbs).

pic 16

5. Using new gaskets, install cylinder heads. Install the washers as shown above between bolts and cylinder head.

pic 17

6. Torque head bolts in order shown above as follows:

Torque all bolts to 29 Nm (22 ft.lbs)
Torque all bolts to 59 Nm (43 ft.lbs)
Loosen all bolts completely
Torque all bolts to 29 Nm (22 ft.lbs)
Turn all bolts 60 - 65° clockwise. If an angle wrench is not available, torque all bolts to 54 to 64 Nm (40 - 47 ft.lbs).

Note:Bolts at positions 4, 5, 12 and 13 are longer than the others.

Rocker Arm Cover Assembly Sequence

pic 18

7. Install both valve covers.

pic 19

8. Install compressor and alternator brackets. Install compressor and alternator.
9. Install exhaust front tube to exhaust manifold.

Fig. 9 Camshaft Pulley Identification

pic 20

pic 21

10. Install the rear belt cover and cam sprockets. The RH and LH cam sprockets are different parts, install them as shown.
11. Install timing belt and adjust tension as necessary.

pic 22

12. Align mark on shaft with protruding mark on housing as shown.

pic 23

13. After installing, confirm that the distributor rotor head is set as shown above.

pic 24

14. Using new gasket, install intake manifold. Torque bolts in sequence shown as follows:

Torque all bolts to 3 - 5 Nm (2.2 - 3.6 ft.lbs)
Torque all nuts to 3 - 5 Nm (2.2 - 3.6 ft.lbs)
Torque all bolts to 16 - 20 Nm (12 - 14 ft.lbs)
Torque all nuts to 24 - 27 Nm (17 - 20 ft.lbs)
Torque all bolts to 16 - 20 Nm (12 - 14 ft.lbs)
Torque all nuts to 24 - 27 Nm (127 - 20 ft.lbs)

15. Connect the water hose to the thermostat housing.
16. Connect the thermal transmitter harness connector and engine temperature switch harness connector.
17. Install the fuel rail assembly.

pic 25

18. Connect all the injector connectors. Install the fuel feed and fuel return hoses to the fuel rail.
19. Install the intake manifold collector. Torque bolts to 4 - 5 Nm (2.9 - 3.6 ft.lbs).
20. Connect air duct hose, ground harness, EGR tube, and purge hose to canister.
21. Connect the vacuum hoses for the canister, master cylinder, and fuel pressure regulator.
22. Connect the PCV hose to the RH valve cover, heater hoses and water hoses to the collector.
23. Connect the following connectors:

EGR gas temperature sensor (California models only)
Air regulator
EGR control solenoid valve
Power transistor
Ignition coil
Throttle sensor and throttle valve switch
AAC valve

24. Install the ASCD and accelerator control cables.
25. Add coolant to system. Connect negative battery cable.
26. Start engine and check for leaks. Shut engine down and allow it to cool down.
27. Remove valve covers and check lifters.

pic 26

28. Push the hydraulic lifter plunger forcefully with your finger with the rocker in the free position.
29. If the lifter moves more than 1mm (0.04 in.), it may have air inside.
30. Bleed off air by running engine at 1,000 rpm under no load for about 10 minutes.
31. If lifters are still noisy, replace them and repeat from step 25.

__________________________________

I hope this helps. Let me know if you have other questions.

Take care and God Bless,

Joe
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Wednesday, February 24th, 2021 AT 11:47 AM (Merged)

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