Randomly will not start

Tiny
MALETTE
  • MEMBER
  • 2001 FORD TAURUS
  • 133,000 MILES
2001 Ford Taurus has starting issues. Just replaced starter a few months back. When that was going on it wouldn't make any sounds just a clicking. This time around everything sounds right but its not turning over. Sounds like it is trying but can't complete. Doesn't happen all the time. Most of the time its fine. I have noticed each time the heater has been on. Not sure if that has anything to do with it but figured I'd point out. I usually always have heater on anyways since we live in colder weather. Car has 133k miles on it. I've owned it for the last 20k or so. I've kept regular maintainance on it. I'm a bit stumped as to what's going on any advice is great. Thanks!
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Sunday, November 6th, 2011 AT 11:33 PM

24 Replies

Tiny
SATURNTECH9
  • MECHANIC
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So the starter turns the engine over normal speed?Or is it doing something else?
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Sunday, November 6th, 2011 AT 11:51 PM
Tiny
SATURNTECH9
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Is the security light on solid or flashing when this happens?
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Monday, November 7th, 2011 AT 12:58 AM
Tiny
MALETTE
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  • 8 POSTS
Security light? The red letters that say theft is solid. According to another response on a page I can't seem to find now it said to listen for fuel pump turning on. I have been doing so and everytime I hear something engage that I assume is the pump when I turn the key to the on position. It just happened again and now I could not get it to start even after waiting a while. Also when I place key in on position I'm not hearing the sound I assume is the pump. It turned on for a second then died and could not restart. Could that be a fuel pump symptom? Is it a fuse? Relay? How can I tell? I appreciate any help. Thanks!
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Saturday, November 12th, 2011 AT 1:24 AM
Tiny
SATURNTECH9
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The reason it wont start is because the theft light is on. What is the 8Th digit of your vin?
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Saturday, November 12th, 2011 AT 3:10 AM
Tiny
MALETTE
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  • 8 POSTS
I considered this being an issue as I've encountered something like that before due to other keys on my key ring. Now I have it on it's own. I thought though it had to be flashing if that was the cause. Honestly this car seems to be too high tech for me, lol. The 8th digit is a letter You. If it were the anti theft system would that cause a. Intermittent problem not consistent and b. To start up and then die within a second?
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Saturday, November 12th, 2011 AT 3:27 AM
Tiny
SATURNTECH9
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Yes to both questions problems with the security system can be very intermintant.
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Saturday, November 12th, 2011 AT 5:07 AM
Tiny
MALETTE
  • MEMBER
  • 8 POSTS
Ok so now I guess a. What does the 8th digit of the vin have to do with it and b. What steps can I take to fix it?
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Saturday, November 12th, 2011 AT 5:38 AM
Tiny
SATURNTECH9
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The 8th digit of the vin tells me what engine incase I need to know that. The first step is see what codes you have that way we will have a trouble tree to start with. The codes were looking for start with the letter B followed by a four digit number.
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Saturday, November 12th, 2011 AT 5:52 AM
Tiny
MALETTE
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  • 8 POSTS
I have checked codes like check engine light. All I've gotten is EGR valve but that's been there for a little while. Don't think it's the cause though I could be wrong. As far as I know those are the only codes I can read. Now weird thing I read about rolling it for a bit and it can reset the system somehow. I don't know but I've tried it all 3 times and it has worked. This last time I paid more attention and heard a click like the wheels or something then tried and car turned on. Now this could be unrelated. Just thought I'd include any info that could pertain. Now just to rule out pump itself: if that was bad then wouldn't car also be susceptible to shutting down while driving? Which it doesn't do. Ok thank you
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Saturday, November 12th, 2011 AT 6:38 AM
Tiny
SATURNTECH9
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The egr valve has nothing to do with the theft light on and a no start. Also if the theft light is on there is no need to check the fuel pump because the car has been disabled we know this because the theft light is on. So you have relearned the theft in the past and that has gotten the car to start in the past?
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Saturday, November 12th, 2011 AT 6:30 PM
Tiny
MALETTE
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Yes I read a post from someone somewhere and like I said it mentioned rolling. So I put car in nuetral and roll back then forward. It could be a simple coincidence, but the 3 times this has happened in the last couple weeks it has worked. After rolling I try again and voila car turns on. Today I will be testing fuses to see if theres a bad one somewhere. Other than that I don't know where to look. Wires somewhere? I've read you can't disable the PAS II. I've also noticed that when car is off and locked and security system set it will at random let out a few beeps. Though no one or anything is toouching the vehicle. Could that be related. I feel like there's a short somewhere. It's my assumption the system is connected to the vehicles battery so I don't see it being a low battery unless there is another one somewhere I don't know about. I haven't had battery checked recently but 2 months ago had Les Schwab check it and they said it was good. Getting really lost on where to go from here. With as much as I drive this is a huge inconvenience and loss of assurance.
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Saturday, November 12th, 2011 AT 9:53 PM
Tiny
SATURNTECH9
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So when the car doesnt start it cranks but wont start?Or no crank no start?
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Saturday, November 12th, 2011 AT 10:19 PM
Tiny
MALETTE
  • MEMBER
  • 8 POSTS
It cranks and everything sounds like it should, but won't start. I also do not hear the fuel pump turn on when I put key in on position like I normally can when it does start. This not engaging is why it doesn't start I'm assuming. When I do hear it turn on car starts no problem. So essentially I'm trying to figure out what could be causing it to not engage all the time. So far it's happened 3 times about once every 5 days. Aside from those times it works just fine.
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Saturday, November 12th, 2011 AT 10:32 PM
Tiny
SATURNTECH9
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So everytime it does start and you dont hear the fuel pump come on the theft light is on solid at that time?Also when it does start the theft doesnt come on solid?
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Monday, November 14th, 2011 AT 5:43 PM
Tiny
JOSEPHBEST23
  • MEMBER
  • 7 POSTS
  • 2001 FORD TAURUS
  • 110,000 MILES
Wow, there seems to be a lot of Taurus questions on here. I know you guys will help me.

FACTS:
-Battery fully charged
-While helper turns ignition key to crank, I got under the car and checked the solenoid to starter braided wire with a multimeter. 12 volts.
-While helper turns ignition key to crank, starter makes a loud repetitive clicking sound.
-While helper turns ignition key to crank, while the clicking noise is happening, the serpentine belt and accesories move very very very very slowly.

Could the engine be suffering from hydraulic lock? Could it be something that causes the ignition not to fire? Wouldn't starter still turn motor just as easy if no ignition present? Thank you guys in advance.
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Monday, April 1st, 2019 AT 6:13 PM (Merged)
Tiny
RIVERMIKERAT
  • MECHANIC
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It sounds like the starter is shot. Make sure the main power cable from the battery to the starter has 12 volts at the starter at all times. Next check the smaller wire on the starter solenoid for the presence of 12 volts while cranking. If 12 volts is present on both wires, you have a bad starter/solenoid.
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Monday, April 1st, 2019 AT 6:13 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JOSEPHBEST23
  • MEMBER
  • 7 POSTS
What if I take the starter off and power it through the solenoid just as it normally would and it spins pretty good and fast? Could the starter be weak due to an internal problem? Also, just because the battery has 12 volts, and the starter clicks, does that completely rule out the battery?
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Monday, April 1st, 2019 AT 6:13 PM (Merged)
Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MECHANIC
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The starter motor overrunning clutch could be slipping-

Hydro-locking-remove all the sparkplugs and crank the engine over is the engine cranking freely-
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Monday, April 1st, 2019 AT 6:13 PM (Merged)
Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
  • MECHANIC
  • 11,004 POSTS
If you do not know how to remove and test your starter yourself, you can take it off and many popular parts stores will do it for you.

Take along the battery too....they'll check it for free too!

If your cylinders aren't full of water (sorta worst case scenario)

Try the things i suggest in this link....do this before you start snatching out the battery and starter

Http://www.2carpros.com/questions/1996-chevrolet-tahoe-wont-start-sounds-dead-battery-jumpbox-get-same-reults

The pic in the bottom of the link also yielded 12 volts when it was tested at the solenoid.....there was just no amps making it thru the corroded crimp. Sorta like getting a hypodermic size stream of water, when a fire hydrant's stream is needed

Return with some good news

The medic
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Monday, April 1st, 2019 AT 6:13 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JOSEPHBEST23
  • MEMBER
  • 7 POSTS
Hey, I cleaned all the connections from starter to battery. It done the same clicking. So I took the starter out from the top and connected all the wires back. Then I case grounded it. I had my helper turn the ignition to crank and the starter gear engaged then spun like a top. But before the gear spun, the clutch clicked about a dozen times, shouldn't it just move once then spin. In other words, it took about 3 seconds before it started turning. That clicking sound we been hearing is definately the overrunning clutch. Is that normal, is my starter good?
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Monday, April 1st, 2019 AT 6:13 PM (Merged)

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