2000 Saturn SL1 Repair Question
Clutch hydraulics problem
So are you replacing the whole clutch master/slave cylinder as a complete sealed set?Or just the slave cylinder?
Also another problem is the clutch pressure plate gets worn bent fingers so the clutch wont fully release even with good hydralics.
I bought the entire master/slave assembly as recommended to replace the original. All 3 units were the entire assembly, none have created the necessary fork travel distance. Is it just a faulty part or could something else be at play here?
As far as what happens when the engine is on. If I'm in Neutral, and push the clutch all the way in, I still can't put it into gear. If I start the car in 1st it'll jump forward and die once the e-break stops forward motion. That to me seems to show the clutch is grabbing fine, just no clearance to get in gear.
I doubt 3 clutch master/slave assemblys are bad.Sounds like a bad pressure plate to me.
How does a pressure plate affect fork travel?
How can you measure actual fork travel when the slave cylinder is twisted into the clutch bell housing and its all sealed up?Unless you actually pull the transmission back and measure it that way.
There's an access hole next to the slave cylinder which allows you to measure fork travel:
Looks like there sticking something between slave cylinder seal?I have worked for saturn for over 16yrs and have never measured the fork travel.If the hydralics were good it was a bad clutch pressure plate not releasing all the way.But i only used factory clutch master/slave assemblys.That all we had was factory parts at the dealer.