2000 Saturn SC2 engine problems

Tiny
SPENCERANDCLARISSA
  • MEMBER
  • 2000 SATURN SC2
  • 159 MILES
I have a 2000 Saturn sc2 I just changed my locked up motor to a motor with 72,000 miles on it and the car started up and drove approxmiatley 1/4 of a mile the car started right up and ran great I took it to my house then started down the road and it shut off on me I attempted to start it and it wouldn't start back it would turn over but wouldn't start I have changed the coil pack the can shaft sencor checked the timing and chased all the wires down to ensure they didn't get torn while putting the motor in the spark plugs are sparking but instead of a blue spark the spark is red and I have called every me mechanic I know and nobody can tell my what is wrong with my car do u this.K that since the motor locked up that the engine computer is telling the car that the motor is still locked up any suggestions would greatly help thank u
I
Wednesday, October 23rd, 2013 AT 10:51 PM

3 Replies

Tiny
WRENCHTECH
  • MECHANIC
  • 20,757 POSTS
All "crank, no start" conditions are approached in the same way. Every engine requires certain functions to be able to run. Some of these functions rely on specific components to work and some components are part of more than one function so it is important to see the whole picture to be able to conclude anything about what may have failed. Also, these functions can ONLY be tested during the failure. Any other time and they will simply test good because the problem isn't present at the moment.
If you approach this in any other way, you are merely guessing and that only serves to replace unnecessary parts and wastes money.

Every engine requires spark, fuel and compression to run. That's what we have to look for.

These are the basics that need to be tested and will give us the info required to isolate a cause.

1) Test for spark at the plug end of the wire using a spark tester. If none found, check for power supply on the + terminal of the coil with the key on.

2) Test for injector pulse using a small bulb called a noid light. If none found, check for power supply at one side of the injector with the key on.

3) Use a fuel pressure gauge to test for correct fuel pressure, also noticing if the pressure holds when key is shut off.

4) If all of these things check good, then you would need to do a complete compression test.

Once you have determined which of these functions has dropped out,
you will know which system is having the problem.
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Thursday, October 24th, 2013 AT 2:18 AM
Tiny
SPENCERANDCLARISSA
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
We have checked the Compression and it had like 450 I'm not 100% sure that it what it was but I think that is what the compression was but we r in the process of getting a fuel pressure tester we was told if it was anywhere under 42 or over 54 it was bad anywhere in between its good I have another mechanic comming to look at it again this weekend but I'm still wanting to find out all the information I can
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Thursday, October 24th, 2013 AT 3:58 AM
Tiny
WRENCHTECH
  • MECHANIC
  • 20,757 POSTS
[quote]We have checked the Compression and it had like 450 I'm not 100% sure that it what it was but I think that is what the compression was [/quote]

No, that's not a compression reading. That's impossible. You need an accurate compression of every cylinder.
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Thursday, October 24th, 2013 AT 4:04 AM

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