Car won't start

Tiny
CINNAMONSLICK
  • MEMBER
  • 2000 MITSUBISHI GALANT
My wife's car won't start. I though it was the battery but it's not. Even jumped the car with another car and won't turn. Check fuel pump and it's working correctly. Then check spark plugs and # 1-4 are not getting any spark. #2-3 have spark. Change the ignition coil on 1-4 still don't have spark. Change the ignition module and didn't do anything. I don't know what to do now. Help please
Sunday, August 26th, 2012 AT 5:00 PM

93 Replies

Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • MECHANIC
  • 41,815 POSTS
Is the MIL indicating? Was there any signs prior to this occurring?
Get a scan to check for trouble codes.

It could be a faulty sensor or missing power supply to the ignition coils.
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Sunday, August 26th, 2012 AT 5:31 PM
Tiny
CINNAMONSLICK
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Yeah the MIL is indicating but I don't have a scan to check the codes. Prior this incident the car was acting up. It was shaking when it was at 10mph.
But the ignition coils are getting power. Already check with a test light
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Monday, August 27th, 2012 AT 12:03 PM
Tiny
KHLOW2008
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You need to get the trouble codes. They might be the key to your problems. Most parts stores provides free scanning services.
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Monday, August 27th, 2012 AT 6:05 PM
Tiny
CINNAMONSLICK
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  • 6 POSTS
Yeah but the thing is that I can't take the car to the part stores, because it won't turn on.
What do you think it can be?
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Monday, August 27th, 2012 AT 6:38 PM
Tiny
KHLOW2008
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What I think is not going to be of much use because there are too many possibilities. A faulty crank sensor, engine computer, wiring circuits, engine mechanicals etc.
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Monday, August 27th, 2012 AT 7:12 PM
Tiny
ERICKNOTT1
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
My car is do the samething it starts nd its good then I turn it off it will start again but the next time I turn it off it wont start it dont even turnover? Idk wat to do
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Thursday, August 30th, 2012 AT 6:59 PM
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • MECHANIC
  • 41,815 POSTS
You need to check the starting circuit to see where the problem lies. It could be poor ground, ignition switch, starter, wiring or even the security system.
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Thursday, August 30th, 2012 AT 7:47 PM
Tiny
CINNAMONSLICK
  • MEMBER
  • 6 POSTS
I have a code. It said camshaft position sensor. Now why does the sensor went bad? Also I want to check the compression on my car to see if it
Jumped time, but I don't have a compression gauge. How can I do it?
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Thursday, August 30th, 2012 AT 9:14 PM
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • MECHANIC
  • 41,815 POSTS
A camshaft position sensor fault would cause non starting. Sensor can go bad due to various reasons.

A compression is not for testing if the the timing belt/chain has jumped time. You need a gauge which can be be loaned from outlets that provide such service.

What is the trouble code you are getting?
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Friday, August 31st, 2012 AT 5:53 AM
Tiny
CINNAMONSLICK
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I believe the code was PO 40
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Friday, August 31st, 2012 AT 1:33 PM
Tiny
KHLOW2008
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I believe you have a typo error. P0340?
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Friday, August 31st, 2012 AT 1:58 PM
Tiny
CINNAMONSLICK
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  • 6 POSTS
Yes sorry. PO 340 is the code
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Friday, August 31st, 2012 AT 2:08 PM
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • MECHANIC
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Here are the diagostic procedures.

DTC P0340: CAMSHAFT POSITION (CMP) SENSOR CIRCUIT MALFUNCTION

DTC Set Criteria

Engine speed is more than 50 RPM. Code will set if CMP sensor output voltage has not changed for 2 seconds.

Engine speed is more than 50 RPM. Code will set if normal cylinder
identification signal pattern has not been input for cylinder identification from CMP sensor and Crankshaft Position (CKP) sensor for 2 seconds.

Probable Causes

CMP sensor malfunction.

Open or short in CMP sensor circuit, or loose connector.

Engine Control Module/Powertrain Control Module (ECM/PCM) failed.

Diagnostic Procedures (2.4L)

1. Disconnect 3-pin CMP sensor connector. Turn ignition on. Check voltage between ground and CMP sensor connector terminal No. 3. If battery voltage exists, go to next step. If battery voltage does not exist, repair wiring between CMP sensor and MFI relay, then go to step 8.

2. Turn ignition off. Check resistance between ground and CMP sensor connector terminal No. 1. If resistance is less than one ohm, go to next step. If resistance is one ohm or more, repair wiring between ground and CMP sensor, then go to step 8.

3. Turn ignition on. Check voltage between ground and CMP sensor connector terminal No. 2. Voltage should be 4.8-5.2 volts. If voltage is as specified, go to next step. If voltage is not as specified, go to step 5.

4. Turn ignition off. Check CMP sensor connector. If problem exists, repair connector, then go to step 8. If problem does not exist, replace CMP sensor, then go to step 8.

5. Turn ignition off. Check ECM 22-pin connector C-38 or PCM 26-pin connector C-40. If problem exists, repair connector, then go to step
8. If problem does not exist, go to next step.

6. Check wiring between CMP sensor and ECM/PCM. If problem exists, repair appropriate wire, then go to step 8. If problem does not exist, go to next step.

7. Connect lab scope pick-up at CMP sensor or ECM/PCM. If connecting lab scope pick-up at CMP sensor, install Test Harness (MB991348) between CMP sensor connector halves. Connect pick-up lead to CMP sensor connector terminal No. 2. If connecting lab scope pick-up at ECM/PCM, connect pick-up lead to ECM connector C-38 terminal No. 88, or PCM connector C-40 terminal No. 56. Start engine and let idle. Compare waveform to a normal pattern. If waveform is normal, problem is intermittent. If waveform is not normal, replace ECM/PCM, then go to next step.

8. Using scan tool, clear DTCs. Test drive vehicle following OBD-II drive cycle other monitor pattern. Check for DTCs. Confirm DTC does not reset.
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Friday, August 31st, 2012 AT 6:53 PM
Tiny
QUELON HARRIS
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
My 2000 Mitsubishi galant won't start
I have changed the ignition sensor and the chain. Now it is diagnosed the key. What should I look for?
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Wednesday, April 12th, 2017 AT 4:45 PM
Tiny
J02WS6TRANSAM
  • MEMBER
  • 34 POSTS
  • 2000 MITSUBISHI GALANT
  • 3.0L
  • 6 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 116,000 MILES
Hello, I have a 2000 galant that turns over but wont start. I have check compression on front 3 cylinders and it has 150 psi on all 3. I check for spark on those 3 cylinders and if I put the spark plug in the wire and lean it against the intake I get spark on all three cylinders. I pulled the fuel rail feed line and cranked it over and fuel squirts right out so I am getting fuel and after cranking and pulling the plugs, they are wet so the cylinders are getting fuel. The car also doesnt start on starting fluid either. No codes on the dash, I have a scanner and the coolant and iat temp sensors are reading correctly to the ambient air temperature. Also with the scanner in live data it shows that the crank sensor is reading and the signal is shown when cranking. Could it be reading but not reading correctly causing it not to start? When the motor cranks it cranks real fast and doesnt even attempt to pop or fire at all. I took the top timing cover off and check the cam and crank marks and they line up. Any thoughts? The wires, cap and rotor are new. Thanks for your help
Jon
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Sunday, April 16th, 2017 AT 9:02 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 108,128 POSTS
First, is the spark to the plugs a hot blue snapping spark? Or, is it white or orange? The fast cranking concern's me. That usually indicates a timing issue or low compression. You said you checked that. When it cranks really fast, is it consistent? Are you certain the timing belt isn't broken or has jumped time? Are you able to check the rear 3 cylinders for compression?
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Sunday, April 16th, 2017 AT 9:02 AM (Merged)
Tiny
J02WS6TRANSAM
  • MEMBER
  • 34 POSTS
Thank you for the fast response. I would say the spark is more of a white color rather than the hot blue. The fast cranking concerned me a bit to, thats why I thought the compression was a issue but all 3 front were 150 psi. The rear 3 cylinders are under the intake manifold, so would be alot more work to check those. I just figured if atleast the front 3 cylinders had good compression and spark it should atleast spit and sputter trying to start but not at all. Juts a constant crank. It is consistent. I am certain the timing belt is intact and aligned, I took the top cover off and turned the crank pulley and watched the cam pulley turn until all the alignment marks lined up. It is such a strange problem. Any thoughts? Thanks again
Jon
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Sunday, April 16th, 2017 AT 9:02 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 108,128 POSTS
First, the spark may not be hot enough to ignite the fuel. If there is spark and it won't even burn the starting fluid, it has to be a weak spark. I still feel there is an issue with timing or the compression if it is cranking really fast. There has to be. Also, if compression is low, it won't fire and run or even try to. Since you said it cranks really fast, that has to be the issue.
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Sunday, April 16th, 2017 AT 9:02 AM (Merged)
Tiny
SAMANTHAV
  • MEMBER
  • 4 POSTS
  • 2000 MITSUBISHI GALANT
Just put new coils on the car, tried a new cam postioner sensor and it still didnt work. It will turn over it just wont crank. Spark plugs are good, new fuel punp timing belt and balancer belt
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Sunday, April 16th, 2017 AT 9:02 AM (Merged)
Tiny
DRCRANKNWRENCH
  • MECHANIC
  • 3,380 POSTS
Coils fail internally over time.
To make sure it is the coils, get a multi-meter and test the power going into the coils. It should have 12 volts. If it does the coils are bad.
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Sunday, April 16th, 2017 AT 9:02 AM (Merged)

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