Radiator Cooling Fan fuse location

There are too many brands and models to choose from and features depends on models. The more features it has, the more expensive it would cost.

I have G-Scan and Launch X431 which I find is adequate for me. I have an Actron code reader too but it does not have too much features. I believe Actron is more suited for you as the others that I have are more suited to Asian cars.

But please remember no generic scan tools are perfect as software needs updating as newer models comes into the market and you should be choosing the one with features most suited for the vehicles you are working on.

Yeah the trouble with scan tool, at least the one they use at Autozone. Is on my dad's car, he's got that 94 conundrum on a Buick LeSabre, where you have to go to the dealership and get hosed for $100 everytime you need to read the codes. It has an OBD-2 plug, but like USB on a DEC computer, it isn't supported by the under the dash port.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/buick-cadillac-chevy-gmc-oldsmobile-pontiac-gm-1983-1995-obd1-code-definitions-and-retrieval-method

Have you ever tried the above link for the Buick?

Well, $200 later and a few spark plugs, cause the technician was sure it was a spark plug causing the problem, they wanted $350 more to replace the Mass Air Flow Sensor. I'm like it's $75 on Amazon for one, and it takes 30 secs to swap out. But at least they fixed the fuse I blew fooling with the paper clip.

My car is actually, in between those two OBD-1 and OBD-2 systems. There was a time period where certain cars made in 94 have the lower OBD-1 plug, but it doesn't have the pins installed in the correct location. Always had to pay $100 to get the thing checked.

Anyways, back to my old problem. I got the AC recharged, and it's not leaking, and the compressor is turning, but after a day's time of having AC. It doesn't have AC. My thinking is the Orifice tube is clogged or doesn't want to let the coolant pass through it. Have you ever heard of such a thing?

We don't think or guess as it is not going to help.

Is the compressor working when turned on?
Is the blower working?
Give me as much info as possible for me to understand.

I had the system recharged, as it only had about 4oz inside. According to the Valvoline tech, it can leak out through the hose wall over time. The AC held vacuum for 20 mins, and didn't leak when fully charged with 2lbs of R134A in a 1998 Mercury Sable system, with UV dye added to check for leaks.

It ran good, the compressor turned both fans came on, and I had steady cool of 40 degrees. Then a day later, it seemed less cool, until at the end of the day it wasn't working at all.

Here's the rub. The Compressor cycles on and off, both fans come on, but I'm not getting any cool air from the system. I don't want to keep running it, lest there be a clog and I blow the compressor (or something else) to kingdom come.

Check the freon high and low pressure and get me the readings.

I'll do that tomorrow.

The pressure was 90/90 on both sides. The person at Valvoline, believes it's coming from the side of the compressor clutch that faces the fender wall. It holds vacuum and pressure, but leaked out almost all the R-134A from somewhere, presumably under pressure when the compressor was turning.

They figure I should replace the compressor, which entails replacing the Orifice tube and Dryer. Normally I would do that, but in this car, it's so tight, and basically you have to remove the water pump again in order to get the silly thing out. Not to mention the dryer where it sits, doesn't look like it's easy to remove, without breaking a metal hose.

So then I came upon this stuff today, while I was at Autozone. I thought I'd ask your opinion on this, as I found out later the Tire Seal I used once is a disaster inside once you use it to fix a leak, then later go to replace the tire.

If you notice #6 it says you must immediately charge the system or the stuff will seal over the port.
What are your thoughts on this. The AC worked, right up until the fluid leaked out again.

90/90 is correct pressure but I need the pressure reading when A/C is engaged.

For A/C system leakages, the basic idea is to look at all components and hoses for presence of oil, especially at joints.

For compressor removal, here are some tips. They are different from the shop manual

Loosen the top two bolts of the compressor. It's a little tight but you can do it. Next take the belt off. Lift the car, drain the radiator, take the lower hose off, take the hose above the lower hose off(the metal one). Next take the two sub frame bolts out(put a jack
under it first) on the passenger side. Lower the frame take the two bottom compressor bolts out. Then the top two bolts loosen them the rest of the way out but leave them in the compressor. Lower the compressor remove the manifold bolt and its out.

I have never believed in repairing seal for leaks. System is under pressure and if seals are bad, I don't understand they can work. Temporary fix maybe but how long will it last?

System has minute passages so there is a possibility the checmical might block them.

I just did the water pump too, so at least it's loose, I thought when I was doing it, wow this gives for easy access to the compressor.

I wasn't too keen on that substance. Notably I've seen what happens inside a tire after that green flat substance is used, and it's a mess.

Ought to be fun doing the dryer can. I hope the Orifice tube is somewhere in this area.

I'll give her a go on Saturday. Gotta work the next 2 days.

It is in the discharge hose.

I never would have thought to look there. Thanks.

I'm still questioning the diagnosis. Have you ever heard of it leaking out the side of the compressor by the Clutch bearing? It just doesn't seem feasible to leak there. And I'm wondering, if that's the case, wouldn't be easier to just simply replace the clutch for $50 than the whole dryer/compressor/orifice tube for $350. The compressor does work when it's charged.

Yes, it is possible for leakage to occur at the shaft seal behind the clutch bearing. I did encounter a case whereby leakage was from the seal and you could not detect the leak when compressor is not working. It leaks minimally when fully charged and when the pressure drops to a certain level, it would leak faster. It would suddenly stop leaking when pressure drops to a certain level whereby the seal is able to hold the pressure.

The seal is not at the clutch so replacing it would not work. It is on the compressor main body at the mainshaft that holds the clutch plate.

Your full of all kinds of good news. Guess I'm in the market for a new compressor, unless I want to eat the $150 I spent at Valvoline for a recharge.

Is it really highly necessary to replace the desiccant/dryer can and the orifice tube with the replacement of a compressor? What is the thinking behind the warning to replace that each time you open the system? On my old Buick it was pretty easy, couple of screws and and few hose connections. The one on this car, looks like I'm disassembling a bomb.

If the compressor is to be replaced only due to the leaking and not seized and the oil in the system is clean, it is not necessary to replace those. If the oil looks dirty, then you should and also flush the system as well.

If the compressor is seized, the components replaced MUST be replaced with a system flush.

No the compressor isn't seized up. That's why it's sad to have to replace the whole thing for $200, plus all the applicable work, in order to get this done. I was looking online at Advance Auto parts, and they sell a bearing seal for $12. How hard would that be to get the old one out, and then pop the new one in? And can it be done with the compressor still on the car, or would I just be spinning my wheels for nothing?

That is good to know that I wouldn't have to replace the dryer. It's $75 additional, but comes with all the metal piping to attach it to the car's pipe system.

Our database does not have any information on the replacement of the seals so I am not able to provide any additional information. You would need to remove the clutch and pry the seal out. Of course the freon has to be discharged