Why Does My Engine Crank Excessively and Hard to Start?

Tiny
JCLARK0622
  • MEMBER
  • 2003 FORD EXPEDITION
  • V8
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 191,000 MILES
My 2003 Ford Expedition takes longer to crank than usualy. It does this when it has been sitting for a while. What can cause this?
Tuesday, July 27th, 2010 AT 8:11 AM

29 Replies

Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MECHANIC
  • 75,992 POSTS
This can be caused by a weak fuel pump but the be sure theses guides will help us see what's going on.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-cranks-excessively-before-starting

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-fuel-system-pressure-and-regulator

Please run down these guides and report back.
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Tuesday, July 27th, 2010 AT 8:46 AM
Tiny
JCLARK0622
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Go call I check out the guides and they helped me see that the fuel pump was weak so I got new one and installed it everything is back to normal and the engine seems to have more power than you so much this site is great!
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Tuesday, July 27th, 2010 AT 9:44 AM
Tiny
JOSEFJ7
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  • 4 POSTS
  • 2001 FORD EXPEDITION
  • V8
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 86,000 MILES
I have this 2001 Ford Expedition V8 5.4. It would start up quickly, now it cranks for maybe 5 seconds before starting. It is also running kind of sluggish. Any ideas what could be causing this? Tune up has already been done.
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Thursday, November 12th, 2020 AT 9:10 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
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Has the check engine light come on? Have you checked fuel pump pressure? Is the engine missing?
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Thursday, November 12th, 2020 AT 9:10 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JOSEFJ7
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No check engine light, fuel pressure was checked when the new fuel filter was placed which was OK. Engine is not missing. Starting did improve with the fuel filter, but the hesitation is still there. I noticed it starts hesitating and shifting hard when driving for a long period of time. Runs great when cold.
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Thursday, November 12th, 2020 AT 9:10 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
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Without an engine code, it makes it tough because many things can cause it. Has the vehicle been tuned up reciently? Have you ever had the injectors cleaned? Have you ever checked the catylatic converter to see if it is plugging?

Sorry I have so many questions, but without a light, it's a hit and miss.
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Thursday, November 12th, 2020 AT 9:10 AM (Merged)
Tiny
YELGNISSM
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  • 3 POSTS
  • 2000 FORD EXPEDITION
  • V8
  • AWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 70,000 MILES
Hi-
We started having to do two cranks on the car to get it started, but once it starts it's fine.

We checked the codes and it's throwing PO171 and PO174 lean both banks.
Service engine light is on.

THINGS DONE ALREADY:
Undid positive cable (should I have done negative?) On battery before working on MAF
I cleaned the MAF with the correct cleaner. Removed air filter and sprayed it well.
Reconnected battery cable.
SERVICE ENGINE LIGHT IS OUT AND IS STAYING OFF at least for 4 days sofar.

BUT car is still long starting. Either takes a long crank to start, or we mostly do two cranks. BUT it always starts on the second crank.

Car runs totally fine. No noticeable change in fuel economy or performance. Drives the same.

ALSO IMPORTANT TO KNOW:
-Brand new Ford Spark Plugs
-New Gas Filter
-New Oil Change
-New Battery
-Not a new air filter, but coming soon in a week or so.

=========================

I'm wondering if the computer is still resetting the starter mix, but it just seems like it has not enough gas to start on the first crank.

What do you think?

We had no problems at all until the long cranking started.
First did the fuel filter
then did the plugs
then the MAF
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Thursday, November 12th, 2020 AT 9:11 AM (Merged)
Tiny
HOMER1967
  • MECHANIC
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I would suspect that you have an intake leak. Which would have to be checked for on a stone cold motor in order to find it.I would suggest that you have a shop with a smoke machine diag it for you.
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Thursday, November 12th, 2020 AT 9:11 AM (Merged)
Tiny
YELGNISSM
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Where would the intake leak possibly be? I've read that it can be a vacuum hose. Or something.

I'm an american but live in the rural philippines, and might not find a diagnostic like that.

Is there a way I could check the hoses, etc a different way?
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Thursday, November 12th, 2020 AT 9:11 AM (Merged)
Tiny
HOMER1967
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The leak would most likely be at the area where the intake bolts to the heads, but you will only be able to test for. It on a stone cold engine. There are other ways to test it, but I am not crazy about them, as the require flammable liquid to be sprayed on the engine, I would search around and see if you can find some one there who can do the test for you. Or you may want to look on you tube for intake leak tests.
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Thursday, November 12th, 2020 AT 9:11 AM (Merged)
Tiny
YELGNISSM
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Possible its a dirty intake air valve?
Some forums also suggest the fuel pump pressure thing that maintains system pressure.
I can clean the iac
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Thursday, November 12th, 2020 AT 9:11 AM (Merged)
Tiny
HOMER1967
  • MECHANIC
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Yea, theres a lot of things that it could be. Try this, next time you start it up cold, instead of cranking it just turn the key on for about four seconds then turn it off for about four seconds, repeat this about three times then crank it and see if it's better. If so then I would say that you have a fuel pressure or volume issue. Let us know.
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Thursday, November 12th, 2020 AT 9:11 AM (Merged)
Tiny
RWOSR
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  • 6 POSTS
  • 1999 FORD EXPEDITION
  • 4.6L
  • V8
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 70,000 MILES
We had a bad IAC. It's been replaced. The vehicle is now hard to start. It cranks between 5 to 10 seconds before firing. It will start and run at 700 rpm. But may drop to 400 rpm's for some reason that I can't figure out. If you drive it, it will drive fine for a while, and then suddenly the rpm's will drop and all engine power is gone. The engine is running somewhat roughly, but stepping on the accelerator produces no forward movement. I have to pull to the side of the road, turn the engine off, then restart it. Sometimes it will move out normally, but most times it will repeat the drop in rpm and have no power.

Any ideas?
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Thursday, November 12th, 2020 AT 9:11 AM (Merged)
Tiny
SCGRANTURISMO
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Hello,

I would double check the electrical connector the the IAC for a pinched wire or maybe unwanted resistance in the connector, I.E. dirty. Also ensure that both the electrical connector pins and the pins on the IAC are not bent or damaged in any way. If that checks out, than it sounds like you probably need to clean your vehicle's throttle and throttle bore. What happens is you get a black sludge over time, which is normal wear and tear, inside of the throttle body. After a while, this sludge will build up and the Throttle Position Sensor(TPS) will go haywire as a result. Your vehicle will also go haywire without this input and go into "limp mode". Here is a more detailed explanation of what's going on and how to fix it in the link below:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-a-throttle-body-works
https://www.2carpros.com/articles/throttle-actuator-service

Please go through these guides and get back to us with what you find out.

Thanks,
Alex
2CarPros
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Thursday, November 12th, 2020 AT 9:11 AM (Merged)
Tiny
BMDOUBLE
  • MECHANIC
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You should also check the back pressure on the exhaust. You may have a broken catalytic converter causing a stopped up exhaust. These will act up intermittently because the honeycomb material inside will roll around and stop up the exhaust intermittently, then sometimes it will act normal. You can actually take the exhaust loose at the flanges and try to drive it a short distance and see if the engine runs normally.
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Thursday, November 12th, 2020 AT 9:11 AM (Merged)
Tiny
RWOSR
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Thank you very much for the advice! I'll look into each of these solutions and get back to you with the results! Your help is very much appreciated!
Rick
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Thursday, November 12th, 2020 AT 9:11 AM (Merged)
Tiny
BMDOUBLE
  • MECHANIC
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You're very welcome!
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Thursday, November 12th, 2020 AT 9:11 AM (Merged)
Tiny
RWOSR
  • MEMBER
  • 6 POSTS
Just today I was able to look again at the SUV running issues that I had described above. I found the problem. It turned out to be a wiring connectivity problem. The wiring harness plug had an oily film on it, and I realized that the locking clip had been broken off, from a previous part replacement.
So, we cleaned the plug as best we could. I will get some CRC and clean it thoroughly very soon, but today we used alcohol and a toothpick, which was the best we could do.
Putting the plug back in place we used a strip of Gorilla duct tape to secure the plug in place. Then attempted to start the engine. It fired immediately, although didn't start until the third time. After the cylinders cleaned themselves out from the unfired fuel, it ran perfectly, with full power.
Thank you so much for the advice from those who offered! I will complete the thorough cleaning today or tomorrow, after getting to town to get the CRC.
Again, thank you. Your help has been invaluable again!
Rick
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Thursday, November 12th, 2020 AT 9:11 AM (Merged)
Tiny
STEVE W.
  • MECHANIC
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You are welcome. Please return anytime with your automotive questions.
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Thursday, November 12th, 2020 AT 9:11 AM (Merged)
Tiny
RWOSR
  • MEMBER
  • 6 POSTS
So checking out the electrical connection on the IAC was an excellent call! It definitely needed cleaning, and I discovered that the locking clip meant to secure the plug to the valve was broken so it was not holding the plug in place, in fact, it was allowing it to back off from the valve. I cleaned it thoroughly with MAF cleaner and reinstalled it. The engine started and ran perfectly. However it still cranked a long time before firing. As it all turns out, the fuel pump was beginning to fail too! One problem, happening at the same time as the other made it harder than it needed to be.

Gotta keep an open mind. Consider all possibilities.

Thanks again for your help!
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Thursday, November 12th, 2020 AT 9:11 AM (Merged)

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