Altnator not chargeing bit checked ok.

That's different than what you found before. 0.2 volts on the ground wire is perfect. Measure the voltage on the signal wires for both sensors. You should find the TPS voltage is close to 0.5 volts at idle, and the MAP will typically be around, ... Oh, ... 1.2 volts to maybe 1.5 volts.

Nope. Stuff will just stop working, the same as when the engine is stopped.

There's three ways for a water pump to leave this world. Most commonly they leak around the shaft seal. If that goes on long enough, the bearings will get sloppy and it can make noise from the impeller hitting the housing or the serpentine belt can slide off. The third way is for the impeller to disintegrate or break free and fail to spin with enough force. That is common on Volkswagens with plastic impellers. That will lead to overheating. As for running too cold, a good way to tell if the thermostat is working is by the highest temperature of the air you can get from the heater. On a low fan speed you should be able to get around 140 degrees from the heater ducts on the floor. Also, the heater hoses should be too hot to hold onto for very long.

I would start by draining the coolant to save it, then disconnect the various hoses and run water through from a garden hose. The water should run out from the bottom of the radiator as fast as you can pour it in on top. Don't open the radiator petcock for any reason. We had a whole pile of them break the part of the plastic tank where the o-ring seal went up against and caused a leak that could only be fixed by replacing the entire radiator.

As for the gauge, look for the single-wire coolant sensor near the thermostat housing to see if it is disconnected. If it is not, unplug it and ground that terminal. With the ignition switch on, that should make the gauge read full hot. That wire used to be purple.

The MAP sensor has the biggest say in how much fuel enters the engine. The acceptable range of signal voltage is 0.5 to 4.5 volts. A failing sensor, (or older ones with a leaking vacuum hose), can report an incorrect value, but as long as it is within that range it will not set a fault code.

The best way to attack too much fuel is by connecting a scanner that can read live sensor data and look at the fuel trim numbers. If the short-term numbers are high negative, that means the Engine Computer knows something is causing too much fuel to enter the engine and is trying, unsuccessfully, to reduce that amount. If the numbers are high positive, it means the computer is requesting more fuel in response to something it sees from one of the sensors.

A cylinder misfire can also cause a very rich condition. You will smell the unburned fuel at the tail pipe, but the oxygen sensor only detects oxygen in the exhaust, not fuel. It will tell the computer to command more fuel into the engine. No matter how much fuel enters, there will still be that unburned oxygen from the misfire.

For engines that have a fuel pressure regulator on the fuel rail on the engine, a kinked / blocked fuel return line to the tank can cause fuel pressure to go too high. That will cause extra fuel to enter the engine.

An exhaust leak ahead of the front oxygen sensor can result in a rich mixture. Between the pulses of exhaust pressure, the momentum creates pulses of vacuum that can draw in outside air. The oxygen sensor will pick that extra oxygen up and report a lean condition that the computer will try to correct by adding more fuel.

Nope. Forget the voltage regulator. The engine will run fine with the charging system not working. I suspect you're overlooking / not finding a mechanical issue, not a sensor problem. Try unplugging an injector while the engine is running. It should develop a misfire. Try each injector, one at a time. If any do not cause a misfire, that one might be sticking open.

If you have to leave a vacuum hose open to get enough air into the engine, that suggests the automatic idle speed motor isn't opening. Loosen the two mounting screws about 1/8" and pull the motor out of the throttle body. That will open up the idle air control passage and let more air in. The Engine Computer won't control that motor / valve if the battery was disconnected. It has to relearn "minimum throttle" first. You have to be driving on the highway for that to occur. Drive with the engine warmed up, at highway speed, then coast for at least seven seconds without touching any of the pedals.

Be careful with the screws for the automatic idle speed motor. They are held in with thread locking sealant and it's easy to round out the torx screwdriver slots.

Can't help you with that. I wouldn't anyhow because those amps are really rude and obnoxious. In my city you get one written warning; after that they confiscate your equipment.

Alternators by their very nature have current limiting built in. It is a factor of the number of loops of wire in each of the three stator windings. There used to be kits you could buy that included stator windings with more loops, and heavier diodes that could handle the increased current, but those kits were for 50 - 80 amp alternators. Most alternators today can easily produce 90 amps and many are good for up to 120 amps. If your alternator can't produce at least 90 amps, you may have a defective diode. When you lose one of the six, you lose very nearly two thirds of the rated output. That means all you'll get is around 30 amps which is just enough to run the fuel pump, engine electronics, and the head lights.

The place to start is with a load test on the charging system. Most professional load testers include a test for excessive ripple which would indicate a defective diode.

What is this supposed to do?