Mechanics

WILL NOT START

2000 Chevrolet Cavalier • 4 cylinder FWD Automatic • 160,000 miles

2000 chev cavalier, 2.2L, Automatic
Last week we had the passlock light come on intermittently and I went to start the car and nothing, so I did the old turn the key on and wait 20 minutes, turned the key off and then it started right away. This I was told resets everything. This happened for about a week on and off and then stopped and the car worked fine until yesterday when I finished work and when I put the key in the ignition and turned and nothing happened the engine did not turn over. I heard the fuel pump and the lights in the dash came on but it did not turn over.
This is everything I did.
- Battery is good, check.
- power to starter, check.
- removed starter thought solenoid was faulty, replaced solenoid, check.
- Turned key to on position, shorted solenoid on starter that worked and the engine started no problem. I think this would also eliminate the Transmission Range switch because the engine started when I shorted the solenoid, please let me know if I am wrong here.
- I tried to start vehicle in Park and also Neutral neither worked.
- So then I figured the problem was somewhere between the ignition switch and the starter what else can it be.
- I checked all fuses and they are good too.
- I checked all connections and wires that I could see and they all looked fine.
- The only other thing in between ignition and starter from what I can see besides wires is the small starter relay mounted to the upper radiator brace and of course the transmission range (TR) switch.
- Replaced starter relay, that didn't work either.
So my question to you is can it be the ignition switch itself and could that be related to my earlier problem with the passlock light, and it is just that the ignition switch itself finally failed.

Please help, I am now out of things to try.
If it is the ignition switch I have been told that I have to bring it to a GM dealer as they are the only ones that can do it.
Avatar
Koko_man
July 9, 2011.



If you short out the solenoid and it starts doesn't mean the neutral safety switch is good because you are bypassing at that point. Do you have a mulitmeter to do some testing?Also when it won't start or does it not start at all anymore?When it doesn't start is the security light on solid or flashing?


Saturntech9
Jul 9, 2011.
Yes I have a multimeter.
Last week when I was getting the Passlock light it was solid and I did the 20 minute reset everytime then it started.
Now though it will not start at all, it will not even turn over.
When I turn the key the passlock light comes on with all the other lights for a few seconds and goes out just like all the other lights do, just like they are supposed to do.


Tiny
Koko_man
Jul 9, 2011.
The security doesnt include starter disable only injector disable. So if the starter is inop lets do this go to the neutral safety switch you will see a yellow wire and a purple they both should have battery voltage with the key in the start postion while in park. Let me know what you find.


Saturntech9
Jul 9, 2011.
Do you want me to meter the Yellow to the Purple with key in start position or Yellow to Ground and Purple to Ground one at a time with key in the start position, sorry please explain a little clearer so I can understand what you mean


Tiny
Koko_man
Jul 10, 2011.
Sorry I am not great with electrical so please be patient, thanks.


Tiny
Koko_man
Jul 10, 2011.
Ground your black lead of the meter then use the red one to check the yellow then the purple for battery voltage with the key in the start position. Were just making sure there is battery voltage at the neutral safety and passing thru it. Let me know what you find.


Saturntech9
Jul 10, 2011.
I removed the wire bundle and grounded the black lead and put the red lead on the yellow wire terminal on the plug and turned to start position, there was no power and I did the same for the purple wire and no power.
Both wires had no power, now what does that mean?


Tiny
Koko_man
Jul 10, 2011.
When tested those wires they were all plugged in right?They needed to be. If we had no power to the yellow plugged in or not then we need to move into the car to test. Go to the ignition switch inside the car with it plugged in probe the yellow and turn the key to the start position you should have battery voltage. Let me know what you find.


Saturntech9
Jul 10, 2011.
Ok I metered the yellow wire with the plug connected I just inserted the probe in the back of the plug where the yellow wire was and I did it in start position and I HAVE power to the yellow wire.

O the previous post were you saying to check the Yellow and the Purple wires with the wire plug attached or plugged in to the neutral safety switch and just insert the probe in the back of the plug like I did on the ignition switch because I unplugged it and metered it off the plug in start position, did I do it wrong?


Tiny
Koko_man
Jul 10, 2011.
Yes the plug has to be plugged into the neutral safety switch because the yellow wire supplies power from the ignition switch to the neutral safety switch then it pass thru the neutral safety then comes out the purple down to the starter. So we have power from the yellow wire from the ignition switch?Please check the yellow wire at the neutral safety switch again for power with the key in the start position because that is a straight shot from the switch to it.I also posted a wire diagram so you can follow a long.


Saturntech9
Jul 10, 2011.
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