1998 Mitsubishi Montero Repair Question
1998 Mitsubishi Montero Engine Swap Proceedures
1. Should I leave the transmission attached to the engine when pulling the engine? What would be easiest? I will have access to an engine hoist, jackstands, and a floor jack. No air tools however.
2. Easier to pull the engine from the top or bottom? If I come out through the top do I need to pull the radiator or A/C condenser?
3. I know there are always small little things about swaps that are a bit tricky, any special bolts/locations/linkages commonly screwed up tidbits that I should be aware of? Or steps that would make pulling or removing the engine easier?
4. I don't know if the Montero I am getting is a sport or not but it is my understanding that there is a difference between the two engines. Does it matter if the engine I get is a sport or not? I know that one engine is bigger then the other but pertaining to mounts/wiring are they the same?
5. I cant think of anything else. If you know if some links that I could look up that would be great. I would like steer away from buying a manual as I have found first hand experience is much better.
1. The transmission need not be removed and I would leave it on vehicle. Use a floor jack to support it while taking the engine out or installing.
2. Easier to get engine out from top. The radiator has to be removed but not the A/C condenser.
3. Lowering the front axle slightly would enable easier removal and installation of engine.
4. Sport uses 3.0 L engines with a lower engine capacity so power soulld not be better than Montero.
I have the new engine mounted in the car but cannot seem to get the engine to mount flush with the transmission. It is just far enough apart that I have yet been able to get a bolt threaded to bring the case and block together. There is still about a half an inch of space.
I am not sure if the input shaft just needs to be rotated ( I have tried this a lot when trying to get the gap to close) or what the next step is. The car is in neutral and I was rotating the crank back and forth while trying to get the transmission and engine to come together. Any suggestions would be great!
Other then that, everything has gone smooth so far... Well I did have to swap out the oil pan and pick up and the new engine does not have a pump that supports the current oil cooler on the car...
Ensure the torque coonverter is seated fully, if not you are going to damage the transmission if you force them together.
Usually it should slot in easily. Ensure the pins for centralisig the transmission are not clashing, the new engine could had the pin while your transmission has the other, meaning you have one too many.
Do you mean the dowel pins that help align the transmission to the engine block? Too many of those would definitely cause an issue. What is the best way to go about getting the input shaft to seat properly in the converter?
The engine that I put in is not the exact year engine that came out of the car so I am a bit scared that for some reason it won't work? The new engine came out of a 2002 Montero. The new engine came from a Montero, not the Montero Sport. Everything else that I have seen so far ( excluding the oil pan and oil cooler fittings) are exactly the same.
You need to turn the torque convertetget it to seat correctly before putting the enig in. If the torque converter had been dislodged, you would have a problem with the engine in place. While turning and pushing the torque converter, you need to lift it slightly to get it to seat correctly.
Engine wise it should not be a problem if the engine is of the same type though different in years.
So your saying I need to keep turning the crank while using a lift to raise the engine (or transmission?) to seat to the input shaft at which point it will slide together with no gap?
Do I have to have a hoist or can I use a floor jack? This is very frustrating for me that I can't get this to seat properly but I do appreciate your help thus far.
Note if the torque converter is pushing against the drive plate. If yes, you would have to remove the engine again.
It is not possible to get the torque converter to seat correctly if it is lined up to the engine. Turning the crank is not going to work.
Turn the torque converter and ensure it goes in fully, it would be very close to the bell housing. Note the depth of the torque conveter in trans housing and measure the distance of drive plate protrusion from engine base where the trans matches. The torque converter should be seated deeper than the drive plate protrusion.
If the torque converter is seated correctly, when the bell housing and engine gaps is closed, it should be able to turn freely.
The trans should go in easily without any turning of the crank as the torque converter and other matching pins would slide in.
A floor jack would be sufficient. Use it to lift the transmission to get the engine and trans aligned while using the lift to get the engine in. Some gentle twisting and manouvering of the engine would be required to get them to slot in.
Here is as close as I have been able to get things to line up. This is still too far apart to get a bolt to thread.
I don't quite understand what you mean by being able to turn the trq. converter or if it is touching the driveplate/flywheel cause... they are bolted to each other.
As it sits in these photos, it turns freely even if the car is in park.
You have the process all wrong and this is going to damage the transmission if you fiorce it in.
Torque converter has to be separated from the drive plate and installed on the transmission first. Ensure the torque converter is correctly and fully seated.
Well, that is good know! Hopefully I haven't done any damage... Once I set the torque converter on the input shaft, then I ease the engine in and bolt the drive plate to the converter correct?
Strange that you can pull it out all connected but it has to be put in differently.
Its making sense now! Thanks.