98 CL 3.0L trans problem. Solenoid maybe?

Tiny
SHAUNX
  • MEMBER
  • 1998 ACURA CL
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • 116,000 MILES
1998 Acura cl 3.0L transmission problem. OBD2 code p0740 tc clutch system falure. And p0730 incorrect gear ratio. Car starts in first fine but around 25 30 mph it is like it goes into neutral till I rev rpms high for a while. Then it will finally shift. At highway speed it is fine. I assume it is a solenoid failure. But with one? Does any one out there have the testing prosedure for the cl's solenoids? Thanks and god bless, Shaun
Saturday, January 15th, 2011 AT 2:59 AM

15 Replies

Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • MECHANIC
  • 41,815 POSTS
Here are the diagnostic procrdures.

DTC P0730/41: SHIFT CONTROL SYSTEM
NOTE:
DO NOT perform this DTC test until all other DTCs have been repaired first.

1. Using scan tool, retrieve A/T freeze data. Clear fault codes and road test vehicle under same conditions freeze data was recorded. If fault code returns, go to next step. If fault code does not return, problem is intermittent, check transaxle and PCM connections.

2. Road test vehicle at over 12 MPH for more than 30 seconds in 2nd, 3rd and 4th gear. Using scan tool, check for any other DTCs. If any other DTCs are present, repair those DTCs first, then recheck for DTC P0730/41. If no other DTCs are present, go to next step.

3. Test clutch pressure. If clutch pressure is within specification, go to next step. If clutch pressure is not within specification, repair hydraulic system as necessary.

4. Replace lock-up control solenoid valve/shift control solenoid valve "A" assembly and shift control solenoid valves "B" and "C". Turn ignition off and clear codes. Road test vehicle at over 12 MPH for more than 30 seconds in 2nd, 3rd and 4th gear. Recheck DTCs. If P0730/41 returns, replace transaxle. If P0730/41 does not return, system is okay.

DTC P0740/40: LOCK-UP CONTROL SYSTEM
NOTE:
DO NOT perform this DTC test until all other DTCs have been repaired first.

1. Using scan tool, retrieve A/T freeze data. Clear fault codes and road test vehicle under same conditions freeze data was recorded. If fault code returns, go to next step. If fault code does not return, problem is intermittent, check transaxle and PCM connections.

2. Using scan tool, check for any other DTCs. If any other DTCs are present, repair those DTCs first, then recheck for DTC P0740/40. If no other DTCs are present, go to next step.

3. Test line pressure. If line pressure is within specification, go to next step. If line pressure is not within specification, repair hydraulic system as necessary.

4. Test clutch pressure. If clutch pressure is within specification, go to next step. If clutch pressure is not within specification, repair hydraulic system as necessary.

5. Replace lock-up control solenoid valve/shift control solenoid valve "A" assembly. Turn ignition off and clear codes. Road test vehicle at over 50 MPH for more than one minute. Recheck DTCs. If P0740/40 returns, go to next step. If P0740/40 does not return, system is okay.

6. Replace A/T clutch pressure control solenoid assembly. Turn ignition off and clear codes. Road test vehicle at over 50 MPH for more than one minute. Recheck DTCs. If P0740/40 returns, go to next step. If P0740/40 does not return, system is okay.

7. Replace torque converter. Turn ignition off and clear codes. Road test vehicle at over 55 MPH for more than one minute. Recheck DTCs. If P0740/40 returns, replace transaxle and torque converter. If P0740/40 does not return, system is okay.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
+1
Saturday, January 15th, 2011 AT 12:46 PM
Tiny
SHAUNX
  • MEMBER
  • 9 POSTS
Ok, Thanks for the reply. I found a service manual for the cl. I preformed the 12 volt tests on all the solenoids. I noticed on the solenoid a/b that one solenoid made a click clack noise the other made just a click noise? And the lock up solenoids both made more of a tick noise when 12 volts was applied, like they were stuck or something. B and c made healthily click clack noises. All soleniods measured within spec resistance on a meter. Is seems like the lock up/ shift control would be the the best bet at this point. I do not have the money to just replace multiple solenoids, like michael calls for, do you think I should start with lock out/shift control first? And then replace pressure control A/B if problem persists, or does one going bad damage the other?
Thanks, Shaun
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
+1
Sunday, January 16th, 2011 AT 1:46 PM
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • MECHANIC
  • 41,815 POSTS
Not all the solenoids would click with the same noise level and the difference in noise level might not indicate the solenoid is faulty.

Generally most transmission with above codes do not get resolved with solenoid replacements and you have to be prepared for that. It could be a clutch slipping internally resulting in the incorrect gear ratio.

If you wish to replace solenoids and has limitd funds, the only way is to start with the one you think most likely after tests and pray that it works.

Have you tested the line pressures?
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Sunday, January 16th, 2011 AT 4:50 PM
Tiny
SHAUNX
  • MEMBER
  • 9 POSTS
Ok, I don't have a trans oil pressure gauge. And I assume you can not read from the pressure switches via can on my computer/scan tool. I replaced the lock up solenoid/ shift control A assembly. And the p0740 code went away and did not come back. And now if I start out in 1st or 2nd gear it operates properly. But in d3 or d4 around 30 or so mph it is like it goes into neutral until I almost stop then it shifts down again and moves again. I removed the clutch pressure control a/b solenoid assembly and notice the gasket is saturated and is almost gone in the middle as you see in picture. Could this cause these problems?
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Wednesday, January 19th, 2011 AT 1:09 PM
Tiny
SHAUNX
  • MEMBER
  • 9 POSTS
Here is a picture with less flash.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Wednesday, January 19th, 2011 AT 1:11 PM
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • MECHANIC
  • 41,815 POSTS
If there are internal pressure leaks due to the faulty gasket, it can cause the problem described.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Wednesday, January 19th, 2011 AT 5:53 PM
Tiny
SHAUNX
  • MEMBER
  • 9 POSTS
Ok, I replaced the gasket and now it does not through any codes. But It still does the same thing. As soon as it goes to shift into 3rd the engine surges and car goes no where till I come to almost a stop then goes again. I assume the transmission is bad?
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Friday, January 21st, 2011 AT 1:09 AM
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • MECHANIC
  • 41,815 POSTS
Yes, the 3rd cluth seems to be slipping.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Friday, January 21st, 2011 AT 2:24 AM
Tiny
SHAUNX
  • MEMBER
  • 9 POSTS
So I bought another rebuilt transmission, installed it. And now I have more problems. This is becoming a nightmare. This time it seems like it shifts randomly. It starts out fine in first then around 20 mph it clunks into 3rd or 4th and the around 30 mph it jumps back into first or second and rpms shoot up. And jumps back and forth randomly? The only shift position it acts normal in is 1st. And I'm getting a 730 code again. I checked all solenoids click and show normal resistance. Any ideas. Did I manage to pick up another bad trans?
Thanks, shaun
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Tuesday, January 25th, 2011 AT 1:43 PM
Tiny
SHAUNX
  • MEMBER
  • 9 POSTS
I forgot to mention, there is no slipping on this trans. Just weird random, hard shifting?
Thanks, Shaun
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Tuesday, January 25th, 2011 AT 1:48 PM
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • MECHANIC
  • 41,815 POSTS
You might have a bad trans.

One thing about used transmissions, sometimes they would work weirdly and after a bit of driving, they would go away.

Give yourself a little driving time to see if problem goes away, if not, you would have to get another transmission.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Tuesday, January 25th, 2011 AT 2:03 PM
Tiny
SHAUNX
  • MEMBER
  • 9 POSTS
Ok I will give it a shot. How much drive time do you think is fair?
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Wednesday, January 26th, 2011 AT 1:23 AM
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • MECHANIC
  • 41,815 POSTS
2 or 3 hours of intermittent driving should be sufficient.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Wednesday, January 26th, 2011 AT 1:16 PM
Tiny
SHAUNX
  • MEMBER
  • 9 POSTS
OK, your going to think I'm crazy. But I figured I would share this anyway. I drove for about 10 mins last night and decided it was just shifting too violently and sometimes into 1st gear at 40+ mpg so I quite trying to save myself the seatbelt bruise. Went to bed pretty discouraged. My Wife said she would pray for me if stopped all the cursing I was doing. So last night I dreamed I swapped out all the solenoids and it worked. I had already tested them all and was confident they worked but figured what the heck.I found that the builder had solenoid c and B in reversed locations. Problem fixed! Shifts like a dream. Makes me feel bad I skipped Church to swap the trans sunday!
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
+2
Wednesday, January 26th, 2011 AT 2:22 PM
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • MECHANIC
  • 41,815 POSTS
Finally you have the chance to sleep well.

Thanks for the input.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Wednesday, January 26th, 2011 AT 6:41 PM

Please login or register to post a reply.

Sponsored links