1997 Pontiac Trans Am electrical

Tiny
SCUBALOVER99
  • MEMBER
  • 1997 PONTIAC TRANS AM
  • 5.7L
  • V8
  • RWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 143,000 MILES
I have a '97 Pontiac Trans Am Ram Air that has given me electrical problems since day one. The guy who owned it before me put headers on it, which caused all of the electrical wiring on both sides of the block to literally melt. All the wiring has been replaced a couple years ago, by my mechanic, but in order for the previous owner to put in the headers, he had to install a "cheater switch" in order to fool the car's computer into thinking the emissions were still legal. (It bypasses the car's O2 sensors). This past summer, I found the wire underneath the car to the cheater switch itself and removed it. I also reconnected all the remaining wires by soldering them completely, covering them with electrical tape, and then putting a blue plastic wire "conduit" around everything. I finished all of this last October/November. The car ran well for a couple hundred miles, then in mid-November, the ignition coil and module died; they were both replaced by my mechanic at the end of November.
Now, it takes 3-4, sometimes 5 or 6 attempts to start the car. It ran for another month requiring 3-4 attempts to start it, but now it won't even jump start after I called AAA.
I have an Actron scan tool and the following trouble codes came up=P141, P161, P372, P441, P410, and P1870. I know the only one having to do with electrical is the P372. Also, I did a freeze data scan, with the car, when it would still run, and it said that fuel systems 1 and 2 are "open." Does this mean electrical with the fuel, or something mechanical, like a broken or leaking fuel line?
I've had the car at my mechanic since the 12th of this month and he said "it's definitely not the fuel." He said he's taken everything apart and put it back together, but they still haven't figured out what the problem is. Any suggestions? I just want to get the car running so I can drive it home and then sell it. It's just become too much of a money pit and headache. Ed
Friday, January 23rd, 2015 AT 4:59 PM

1 Reply

Tiny
HMAC300
  • MECHANIC
  • 48,601 POSTS
Check battery for condition including load test a weak battery will cause multiple codes. Try another key if you have one it may be setting theft deterent off and your key may be bad. Also I am assuming fusible link in pic is ok. 141 and 161 have to do with O2 cheater circuit at rear of converter if you even have them on. Check for fuses underhood. Code 372 is cam/crank timing inpiuts so mechanic there should be able to chase that. 441 is setting because 372 is because it is not purging. 410 is for air pump to start and it gets it from O2sensor so I may have something to do with the repair you made on O2 sensors like a bad connection etc. 1870 is a trans code that it's sliping so have a trans guy check that one I f it doesnt' go away. There is heat resistant tape and covers to protect wiring. So you might check into that it'ssilver in color and kind of thick which was used by manifolds on GM products. Check into an electrical supply place not sure if automotive may have that or not.
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Saturday, January 24th, 2015 AT 6:23 AM

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