How do I open my hood if my hood release is not working?

Most of the time what happens is the cable stretches to the point the hood no longer opens.The first thing i would try is disconnect the hood release cable from the release handle.Then grab the cable end with a pair of vise grips and try pulling the cable with them.If the hood releases then replace the cable. If not you may have to try and release the latch from under the front of the vehicle with along screwdriver

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-open-a-car-hood

They have those connections where you can charge or jump the battery throw the cigarette lighter
is the cable broken if not try to tap on the hood while a helper pull the handle for you
pull on the hood
good luck

Hello, on some makes and models, the plastic handle will break, but, the cable is still there, grab the cable with a pair of vice-grips and pull. Sometimes it helps to have a helper pop the hood with the palm of their hand, in the area of the release mechanism, as you pull on the cable.

If there is no cable to grab, maybe you can go in through the front grill area, see if you can reach the release mechanism? I just wanted to add, if you get the hood up, lube everything you can about the release mechanism.

Have a helper pop the hood with palm of hand, as you pull. If that doesn't work, you may have to see if you can reach release mechanism through the front grill.

Go under it and use a long screwdriver and see if you can move the part the cable hooks too enough to pop it.

If you cant do that you can disconnect cable on the inside and try to find enough cable to grab onto with vice grips and pull it that way

Did you use ATF-3 transmission fluid? The wrong type will cause a shudder during gear changes and torque converter lockup.

For a noise you can hear but not pinpoint, use a stethoscope to poke around with. Harbor Freight Tools has them for less than five bucks. Auto parts stores have them too.

For noises that only occur while driving there is a tool you might be able to borrow or rent from an auto parts store that borrows them called the "Chassis Ear". It is a set of six microphones, a switch box, and headphones. You clip the microphones to suspect points, then drive around while listening with the headphones. You can move the microphones around to zero in on the source of the noise. Be aware that many mechanics have never seen or even heard of this tool. Suspension and alignment mechanics use it to find rattles, squeaks, and other noises.

Worn inner anti-sway bar bushings are pretty common and real easy to replace, but I don't think I'd call that a rattle. It's more of a light thumping sound that goes away when turning slightly.

Since it's felt in the gas pedal, look for something rubbing against the throttle cable or the body. Check the exhaust system hangers. They always have some type of rubber isolator to separate the two metal parts. If those metal parts touch they will transmit normal engine vibration into the passenger compartment.