1996 Ford Ranger • 4 cylinder 2WD Manual • 192,000 miles
96 ford ranger 2.3l 2wd---hard to get into gear and grinds someitmes going into reverse. replaced- master cylinder, slave cylinder, throwout bearing, pressure plate, clutch disk, inspected flywheel and pilot bearing. there is plenty of pedal... ideas?
February 12, 2011.
February 12, 2011.
Does that mean Enough to disengage the clutch disc?
Does that mean Teeny-Tiny amount of Free Play at the Top, as you began pushing the Pedal--then it begins Disengaging the disc?
I guess in different terms I'm saying, AT THE TOP-WITHOUT YOU FOOT ON IT---"ALMOST" THE INSTANT YOU TOUCH IT WITH YOUR FOOT,....you can feel it PUTTING PRESSURE on the PRESSURE PLATE?
Using Computer Commo, is sometimes hard to get info across, ITS HARD ENOUGH dragging info out of people Face To Face......For many have their "OWN" Definitions, as to what things mean.....Or their "Preferences" differ from what "The Book" describes as Correct.
I do not know much about your particular vehicle. Imma member like you. Imma Jeep CJ Kinda Guy. I answer in the Jeep CJs forums I do understand the operation of manual transmissions.
Many people (all vehicles) adjust their pedal to the point where: if it were on the floor and they sneezed, They would SMACK the car in front of them!.......They claim it WORKS BETTER that way!.....Well this ain't a TOP FUEL race, and if it were, You'd probably have the money and time to replace all of this "Expendable" stuff, after every race....In preparation for the next.
Many times when these people "Think" they are disengaged.....Their Disc is really Slightly Turning with the flywheel (even though they cannot feel it)....Which means the Transmission Input Shaft is still rotating, Making it difficult for the BLOCKING RINGS to "BRAKE" the gears, in order to SHIFT from one to the other.
I will show you a pic of my CJs Mechanical System (since I cannot provide pics of yours) The way you get MY PEDAL TO THE TOP is by adjusting a the Rod That Contacts the Clutch Arm (or throwout lever)..........You adjustment may vary, it may screw out of the end of you SLAVE, the slave itself may adjust forward or rearward to take out the Slack (You should know, you said you have replaced this stuff!) Just insure you do not Overdo it, This would be like "Riding" the pedal, actually sorta constantly being slightly disengaged!
To sum this up.....NOT FULLY DISENGAGING the DISC and PRESSURE PLATE....Due to INCORRECT ADJUSTMENT (or even Laziness in not pushing the pedal in fully when shifting) Can cause Grinding.....And TRANSMISSION DAMAGE!!! We hope this has not already happened!
My 2nd and 3rd began giving me problems. 6 years ago I completely rebuilt it--spare no part--all internals new!
I attribute 2nd and 3rd Grinding and having to go to 2nd and 3rd in SLOW MOTION in order not to (grind)..........Laziness! in me not Fully Depressing the Clutch pedal.....Me, Sorta constantly "Speed Shifting" for 6 years.
It's been less than a month since I REBUILT IT 100% this time...AGAIN--$850 or so (Yes, everything BRAND NEW inside, IS OVERKILL...but I'm like that!) That was JUST the Full Kit, Does not include my "expendable" Labor, cleaning stuff, oil etc etc!
That coulda been really big $$$, at a shop!
1)My Mechanical Clutch Linkage
2)Breaking loose the lock nut....the big-long nut us the adjustment...the Throwout lever is at the top end of it (actually this is facing rearward, beside the bell housing)
4)My "HIGH LIFT"
5)Had to remove the skid plate and transfer case (and support everything, when the skid plate was removed.....Just to get to the tranny
6) Removed shifter to give the tranny room to come out
7) This cast iron stuff is heavy!
8) Throwout bearing, throw-out arm---I did nt tear into my clutch..it was fine........the Arm sticks out of the bell housing at "8'Oclock" (the adjuster is behind it, towards the front of the Jeep)
13) Bent/ Worn forks can cause problems too........I replaced both for insurance!
14) ready to reinstall!!!
15) This is his older brother, 1946 Willys---Drivetrain is very similar, not much changed over the years!
I took a bunch more pics than this!
Wish you had a Jeep Now?---EZ to work on....This one (Mr. Jeep)is 34 Years Young, "Willy" is ONLY 65, not no where close to retirement!
As you can see this is my hobby...I did not sign up for pay here, I just try to help...if I can
Whachu Think about my novel?
Questions...I might can answer?
CJ. Thanks for the reply. First, The "plenty of pedal means it begins to get firm when depressed from about and inch down- all the way to the floor. My ranger is not like your JC. the Slave in inside the tranny and surrounds the input shaft and there are no adjustments like the fork style you are talking about- those were easy to adjust. On my ranger It seems like when the pedal is depressed it is not pushing the pressure plate enough to disengage the clutch disk. It does seem to work better if I force the pedal against the fire wall.
Feb 12, 2011.
Feb 12, 2011.
Some who come here, HAVE NOT A CLUE, all they know is push the pedal and shift.....Relying on Misinformed input from their Evil Buddies, who have even less of a clue....But saw something like it on their X-Box!
Do you think it's Fully/ Correctly bled out?
Do you think maybe you have a SLOW Fluid "Leakage" by the "O" Rings in the Master Cylinder?
Maybe By Evil Buddy holding the Pedal Down (Not ever letting up) and Can you SEE (I know it's internal) the Slave actuating rod, ETC Parts, Creeping back, AS THEY SHOULD NOT (maybe peering into an inspection cove,r etc?) ....That make sense?
These words are just so I can re-find this in "SEARCH": xclutch ... xmanualtransmission ....I meant to put those in, to begin with, at the beginning of my answer
Are there any INTERNAL adjustments like: Screwing the Slave Actuating Rod In or out?
Do you have a Manual to Reference?
I do give those involved, personal answers (unlike the other fellers), Don't I?
Want a Jeep yet?
What about my suggestions...Done thought of that?....Way ahead off me and I need to shut up?
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