Mechanics

WILL NOT START

1996 Ford F-150 • 5.0L V8 2WD Automatic • 190,000 miles

Replaced Ignition control module, crankshaft position module, plug wires, distributor cap and rotor still would not start. Replaced PIP sensor and it ran for about 1 month engine shut off and hasn't started since. Replaced distributor it came with the PIP sensor still would not start retested PIP sensor and test indicates it is bad. But it is brand new could a bad computer that is working intermittently cause this to? I have also tested the injectors to make sure they were getting signal and they were working. Please help I have ran out of ideas
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Lgb2004
February 28, 2014.




Scan for codes and check feulpressure with a gauge first auto parts rent them. Then reset anti theft if no manual look online how to do it.


Hmac300
Feb 28, 2014.
Already checked fuel pressure 40psi not equipped with anti-theft when you hook up a code reader nothing comes up


Tiny
Lgb2004
Feb 28, 2014.
Check fuses in pic, power diode to make sure it is sending power to pcm powr relay and relay see pic.


Hmac300
Feb 28, 2014.
Checked fuse's and tested relay's all okay


Tiny
Lgb2004
Feb 28, 2014.
I wouldn't want to say computer is the problem
Step 5) Check Flash EPROM (FEPS) Circuit For Short To Power With ignition on, measure voltage between negative battery terminal and DLC terminal No. 13. See Fig. 1. If voltage is less than 9 volts, go to next step. If voltage is 9 volts or more, repair circuit for a short to power and repeat quick test.
Step 6) Check For Spark At Plugs Disconnect any spark plug wire. Connect spark tester between spark plug wire and ground. Connect Spark Plug Firing Indicator (D89P-6-A). Crank engine while checking for spark. If spark is okay go to next step. If spark is not okay, go to CIRCUIT TEST JD, step 1
p 5) Check CKP Sensor Turn ignition off. Disconnect CKP wiring harness connector. Turn ignition on. Measure voltage between pin No. 21 (CKP +) at breakout box and negative battery terminal. If voltage is 1-2 volts, go to next step. If voltage is not 1-2 volts, go to step 18).
Step 6) Leave ignition on. Measure voltage between pin No. 22 (CKP-) at breakout box and negative battery terminal. If voltage is 1-2 volts, replace CKP sensor and repeat QUICK TEST. If voltage is not 1-2 volts, go to next step.
Step 7) If voltage in step 6) was less than 1.0 volt, go to next step. If voltage in step 6) was more than 1.0 volts, go to step 9).
Step 8) Turn ignition off. Disconnect PCM from breakout box. Measure resistance between pin No. 22 (CKP-) at breakout box and negative battery terminal. If resistance is more than 10, 000 ohms, replace PCM and repeat QUICK TEST. If resistance is 10, 000 ohms or less, repair CKP-circuit short to ground.
Try these first I know you said you replaced crank sensor but do this it may tell you better if pcm is bad or not.
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Hmac300
Feb 28, 2014.
I don't recognize the terminal shown and am unfamiliar with the term DLC


Tiny
Lgb2004
Feb 28, 2014.
Also unfamiliar with CKP wiring harness and FEPS circuit


Tiny
Lgb2004
Feb 28, 2014.
DLC means diagnostic link connection or where you hook your scanner up. So you go on the bottom and9 is one side an d16 the other so you count over to 13 and do your test there. It is either called aldl or dlc. It shold be in the truck under the lh sde of steering column.


Hmac300
Feb 28, 2014.

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