Mechanics

FORD F-150 ENGINE PROBLEM

1996 Ford F-150 • 150 miles

I remove the distributor to replace the stator. When I put it back together the timing is way off. I've done all the basics. Found tdc on compression stroke at number one. Put in dist. And had rotor facing number one. Removed the spout. I can't figure out why the timing is off. It starts but jerks go's up and down in rpms, I've turned the dist. 90 degrees in both directions and it only gets worse. I tried putting back in the spout and it just shut off. I don't know why the timing is so far off. Before I removed the dist. The timing was spot on. Whay am I missing. 96 150 4x4
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Jay Adkins
April 11, 2013.




You need a pro type scanner to get it where it is supposed to be they can find the fewdegrees where it should be. Try cleaning throttle plate on both sides with chokecleaner as well

Hmac300
Apr 11, 2013.
I appreciate the reply, but if it was even close shouldn't I be able to get it close enough without a timing light so that it would at least be able to run somewhat decent? Also, when the timing does get set, do I put the spout bar back in? I'm no expert like you, but I am somewhat of a decent home mechanic, and I've been working on 302"s and 351"s for many years. Although it's been a few years since the last time I had a sever timing issue to deal with, the last time was a 302 on a 90"s model crown vic, and I was able to dial it in almost perfect by sight and ear. I just don't understand what could be making it be this far off. There has to be something simple i'm missing, but I just can't figure it out, and the timing was too good prior too this for it to seem logical that it's a timing chain issue. The reason I replaced the stator is because it woul

Thanks

Tiny
Jay Adkins
Apr 11, 2013.
Sorry I screwed up you disconnect the spout connector prior to starting engine make sure it's run with ignition and nothing else, set at 10 btdc then rshut off engine and reconnect spout. Then verify engine advances beyond initial setting. But your truck has to be over 8500lbs gvw and have eecIV if it's eecV then it's non adjustable. The only thing I can think of is the armature is on backwards and I dont' know how that could happen. I think that is what you call the stator

Hmac300
Apr 11, 2013.
Shold be apic with this as I didn't see it in last reply

Hmac300
Apr 11, 2013.
I've done everything except put a light on it, but it's no where near close enough to even put a light on it. I got it running, but it jerks and increases speed very slowly. I actually took the dist. Out and moved it slightly past the number one plug, and it still does the same thing. It runs almost as bad as it does if you forget to take out the spout. Any suggestions on how to get it close enough to time with a light?

Tiny
Jay Adkins
Apr 15, 2013.
Timing with a light I covered in the previous answer directly from the manual. You may have to get this scanned. The dist teeth aren't worn down are they?

Hmac300
Apr 15, 2013.
No the teeth are in good condition. Do you think the scanner at auto zone would work, or do you think I need to break down and take it into a shop? I really hate to do that, other than having a trans rebuilt when I was laid up with back surgery a few years ago, I haven't had to go to a garage since I was in high school.

Tiny
Jay Adkins
Apr 15, 2013.
It needs a pro type scanner as I mentioned in the previous answer as they can read by degrees. Auto zone scanners only read and erase codes nothing more. Besides the code they give may only be a code and not the actual problem that is wrong with the vehicle. What was the original code? If it was a misfire did you bother to check fuel pressure as low fp will give a misfire or lean condition code. Scanning and check fuel pressure should always be done prior to just changing parts, even if it is a n autozone type scanner.
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Hmac300
Apr 15, 2013.

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