Leaking water

Is it water or coolant? There should be clear water dripping when you run the air conditioner. That is the humidity from the air condensing on the cold evaporator in the dash and collecting in the drain pan where it drips onto the ground just inside the right front tire and a little behind it.

Are you seeing green? There are core plugs on the both sides of the engine but they don't corrode out very often unless the coolant hasn't been changed to get the harmful acids out. It's more likely the water pump is leaking and the coolant is running along the engine to where it drips onto the ground.

A pressure test might be helpful in locating the leak. Many auto parts stores will rent or borrow the tool. You can also add a bottle of dye, then search with a black light, but that is better suited for real slow leaks that don't leave much evidence behind.

Is that in the radiator or the side of the block?

Sorry I have to leave for a few hours. I'll look for your reply as soon as I get home later tonight.

I hated them too. Not Chrysler's finest work. I replaced a lot of rack and pinions and power steering hoses under warranty for noise complaints. ANY other Chrysler product is easier to work on.

I can't imagine how a drain plug would leak unless someone had it out to drain the coolant and didn't get it back in tight. Some teflon tape on the threads might help.

Reason I asked about the radiator is they had a rash of them from the supplier that would crack inside when the petcock was opened. After that they would drip about once every five seconds. The fix was a new radiator.

Just so I'm clear, are we talking about a threaded drain plug or a pressed-in core plug, about 1 1/4" in diameter? If this is a core plug that's leaking, first you have to remove it by tapping on the side with a punch and hammer to spin it 90 degrees, then you can grab it with a pliers to pull it out.

New core plugs are pounded in with a special tool that includes various sizes of cones and an extension rod. That rod comes in two different lengths and they swivel so you can work around obstructions. This isn't normally a difficult job if the car is up on a hoist.

If you have the room, you can drill a small hole in the side of the plug, then run in a long threaded self-tapping screw. Once the screw hits the cylinder wall and you continue tightening it, the core plug will be pulled out. Be careful to stop drilling as soon as you get through the plug. There is normally enough room behind them to install an engine heater, but in the case of one Chevy engine, there was so little room, the mechanic drilled right through the cylinder wall and destroyed a brand new engine.

If you're working on the ground or if you just don't have access, there are rubber core plugs that are meant for temporary repairs, but they seem to work fine for permanent repairs. You simply slide the proper size plug into the hole, then tighten the wing nut in the middle. That expands the plug to create the seal.