fuel filter location

Hi tdhupp,

Thank you for the donation.

Seems you have an idling problem and mostly such problems arises when the throttle body and Idle Air Control valve gets clogged with dirt. This would reduce the amount of air getting past the throttle body thus the erratic idling and stalling.

I would suggest getting the throttle body and IAC cleaned and idling speed readjusted. Check the spark plugs and wires as well.

The car starts and drives but will not get up to speed shifts ok just very little power and no smoke or anything else like that. I'm thinking fuel filter or pump or even injectors if not that spark plugs

Any codes in the computer?Have you had the exhaust checked for excessive back pressure?

Auto zone read it as a misfire and was told by macanic that engine would need replaced just seeing if anyone has any ideas ...have not checked exhaust what is an easy way to no that

How bad does it miss?Why did they say you needed a engine?To check back pressure on the exhaust you need to run a back pressure test.Best to have a exhaust shop do that.

the car stopped dead in traffic. it wont restart. i have (since then) changed the alternater, distributer, plugs, plug wires, roter, and ignition coil. it will turn the belts but no fire. checked the fuel filter- no fuel in it. i checked the fuel pump but could not get very good readings with my multimeter.so at this point i am baffled. i need help please...

You are at the right path. Unplug the fuel pump connector. Probe positive to B+ connector on the wiring harness, black to ground. Turn the key ON. If you have voltage, pump is bad.

thanks... i'm replacing it soon

Sure thing...

replaced it and still nothing except that now i can smell fuel. ugh... what else could it be??

fuel filter on 95 camry

Did you test the voltage as I asked? You also need to check fuel pressure at the fuel rail. For this, you will need a fuel pressure gauge. Did you check fuel pump fuse and possibly relay?

If you smell fuel, you may have a problem with the EVAP system, possibly the EVAP solenoid.

The fuel filter is mounted on the driver side of the engine compartment, below the charcoal canister.

i bought this car 1 week ago did great then all the sudden i am at a stop light and it dies waited about 20 minutes car starts up fine but i keep having this problem it dies sometimes when i come to a stop or am slowing down. i have changed fuel filter, distrubutor cap still same problem. what could this be

you can do 2 things one clean the idle control valve or replace the idle control valve and gasket and hit the road w/ no more problem .. the best way to clean the idle is removing the trottle body assy and remove the idle control valve clean it with carburator cleaner ... or a trettle body cleaner ..

I have a 1994 Camry V4 2.2L and I turn on the car and about a few minutes later like ten minutes the car just turns off. The engine just stops. I try turning on again and nothing... seems like something got hot...
Alternator is new and Fuel pump was just replaced and the fuel filter too and the Distributor and batter is good too.

help!!! Thanks!

Pick your symptoms below check and test it and get back with some testing results

Cranks but no start condition:

Get a helper disconnect a sparkplug wire or 2 and ground it to the engine at least 3/16 away from ground -have helper crank engine over-do you have a snapping blue spark? If so-you have a fuel related problem,Do you hear the fuel pump come On when you turn key on? If not check fuel pump fuse and fuel pump relay if so, check the fuel pressure to rule out the fuel filter/fuel pump/pressure regulator and listen to the injector/s are they pulsing or hook up a noid light. No snapping blue spark continue to troubleshoot the ignition system-power input to the coil/coil packs,coil's resistances,distributor pick-up coil, ignition control module, cam and crank sensors and computer Note: If it doesn't apply disregard it.

No crank at all/nothing/nada when key is engage to starting position

Could be a blown fusible link, the starter, starter relay, clutch switch/park and neutral switch/transmission position switch and ignition switch assuming the battery condition and connections are good. Note:If it doesn't apply disregard.

The car starts but after ten minutes it turns off or the engine shuts down or stops running. I have to let it cool down before it starts again and then again only ten minutes it last so its got to be some sensor that is not working or heats up. I will check the sensors too and well i took it to Autozone and the check engine light was on and the guy got the code 12 which is the knock sensor. Well i dont think that is the problem because that engine light has been on for quite sometime like a year or so more.

Check and monitor the fuel pressure before it stalls out this will tell you if its coming from the fuel pump

Fixed it was a faulty Distributor... I had a re-manufactured and well OEM is the way to go.. I had OEM before when it first went out.

NEW NEW NEW people and shop ebay.... cheaper.

I have 92 3.0 xle automatic trans. about 150.000 miles that has become sluggish on acceleration but once underway the car seems fine ,did replace the fuel filter but that didn,t fix the situation. Do you know what could cause this problem?

[quote:3dce972249="hydrabass"]I have 92 3.0 xle automatic trans. about 150.000 miles that has become sluggish on acceleration but once underway the car seems fine ,did replace the fuel filter but that didn,t fix the situation. Do you know what could cause this problem?[/quote:3dce972249]

what about your other tune up parts? if your buyin auto zone parts dont bother

I did change my plugs and wires last year and I changed my air filter the other day and i use Orielley parts . Had the a/c changed over to r-134 and they replaced the expandtion valve recently but i can't link it to any thing they may have done, it is the coldest a/c i have every had .

[quote:9f7c3b4186="hydrabass"]I did change my plugs and wires last year and I changed my air filter the other day and i use Orielley parts . Had the a/c changed over to r-134 and they replaced the expandtion valve recently but i can't link it to any thing they may have done, it is the coldest a/c i have every had .[/quote:9f7c3b4186]
to me some aftermarket parts are ok, on a toyota, but plugs and wires, needs toyota parts, they just hold up better, after market wires dont last, check the coil also, sparks jump to coil burring it with bad wires on a 4 cylinder use a mirror after removing the dist cap

Engine Performance problem
1991 Toyota Camry 4 cyl Front Wheel Drive Automatic 220K miles
----------------------------------------------------------------
I replaced the fuel filter on my 1991 Camray and the engine will not start. When I crank the engine it sounds like no fuel is getting to the engine. Before I got the top fuel line connected, fuel was already coming out of the top of the filter. Is there something I missed? It seemed as simple as taking the old one out and putting the new one in.

I replaced the fuel filter because the car still had the factory installed filter. Also, the car was acting as if it was struggling to get fuel when I accelerated.

The filter is installed righ side up. It is shaped like a bell and will only fit one way.

I also cranked the engine with the fuel filter disconnected to test the fuel pump. Fuel spurted out of the line so I believe the pump is working.

Why did you changed the fuel filter-If its running before you did the filter you probably installed it backwards- if not remove the filter and turn key On -Did it spurt fuel ? If not check the fuel pump

hi i have a 1990 toyota camry. EFI 2.0 L 4 cylinder
for the last couple of weeks it has been sitting in my driveway because everytime i start it it it struggles to start then when it does it idles fine but unless i push the accelerator very very softly the engin just spluters and conks out.
i have changed plugs
checked the fuel for water or impurities.
i also unpluged one of the pipes on the efi i think it was the cold start thing and when i tryed to start the engine fuel flowed out of that cold start thing so im guessing the fuel filter is not cloged and fule pump is working
altho we have had some trouble the fuel punp in the past
i got in the car today started wrent for a drive around the block and it goes fine just as long as i get the reves past idle it onlye from the idle speed of about 1000 rpm to about 1500 rpm

I am going to give you some diagnostic walkthroughs for the problems you are having. They go into much more detail than I can give you haere. Just follow the links below;

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-cranks-excessively-before-starting

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-stalls

car just died while driving wouldnt start then thought it was fuel filter replaced then checked fuel pump getting plenty of fuel but have no spark at electrode shorted out. could this be sensors? how to check and repair

could be the distributor, cap, rotor or the timing belt may have failed and the diastributor is not turning

Roy

Please give any information an diagrams to replace fuel filter of above, i have been unable to obtain a camry manual, thank you
Stina

A manual is availible here:
https://www.2carpros.com/kpages/auto_repair_manuals.htm

Typically manual doesn't give much except for location. Is it being replaced because of a problem or is it strictly as maintenence,

Hi Paul, thanx for the link, its a combination... there is a blockage in fuel system (am hopin the filter replacement will rectify) but maintenance too as bought car 2nd hand with a few issues.. thanx again for info
Stina

IF I had the car in front of me....lol... I didn't find a location, and haven't seen one in some time, but if you follow the fuel line back from the engine you will hit it.

I believe it is along the firewall. Use a good penetrating fluid on the connections as it is probably rusted pretty good. In some cases, it can be bad enough that the line gets detroyed, in which case there are replacement line parts or universal filters that can be used.

thanx paul for the assist, found and replaced, also did fuel pump, omg that was a pain in the butt lol
still have some work to do but will let ya know when i have runnin... or come running to you if have more probs... thanx again :D

Yeah they put those things in a tough spot eh?

If problems still exist, as much info regarding symptoms would help. Good Luck.

Great info - have car "chugging" and hope that the fuel filiter is the issue. Already added fuel injection cleaner. Fuel filter is on the left front fender (right side when under the hood) below the air filter. Remove the top of the air filter and push out of way. 3 wrenches needed - 17mm socket/crescent for the top bolt, 14mm open crescent for the bottom hose nut, and 10mm for the bracket bolt. The bracket bolt was hardest to loosen, used some WD40 and mm by mm was able to loosen up the bolt - the bracket had a fixed nut which was great. Hardest part of repair was getting the filter pushed down thru the bracket - we used a soft rubber mallet with a regular hammer banging on the top of the mallet to push it thru. Put new filter in, pulling up with 2 hands to get filter in bracket high enough, lining up the 3 "nubs" on the side of filter with the grooves in the bracket. Reinstalled bottom hose fitting, tightened, tightened the bracket bolt, and finished with the top hose bolt with the new copper washers that came with filter. Cranked engine, started up on 2nd try after getting the gas back in line. Now to go to work and see if it "worked".....