Heater problems

Well, they are both equally hot now that the heater core was flushed and the hoses and with the discovery of no cold from the A/C I'm pretty sure but it's still a crap shoot. Unless the heater core is still stuck and the compressor is not working or out of refrigerant too. This car did sit for a long time before I bought her so always these things can show up one at a time.

Finally getting back to this. Thermostat replaced, heater core flushed. Blend door actuator not working but if I rig it so the blend door is wide open I get full A/C. It is my understanding that I should be able to rig it closed and get full heat but only cool air comes out even on manual override. There is no heater control valve in this year and model in the heater core intake hose. What am I still missing?

Thank you so much.

Both heater hoses are fully and equally hot. Moving the blend door manually and having the heat on manual override does not help. What next? Thanks.

The blend door does not work but I can move it manually and get full A/C when it is wide open on manual override so I should be able to move it the other way and get full heat on manual override but that is not happening. Is there a blockage somewhere else? Vacuum line behind the glove box? Or?

That was supposed to say "without removing the dash".

OK, well it did not post at all so here goes again.

Inconsistient a/c and heat problem. Initially little of either on EAC.

Had full heat this AM on mannual override. Then not this afternoon. Had full A/C on manual override but lost it too. I assume I bound by 60 to 90 degree range even on manual override but it is not consistient.

No air coming from defroster either even when heat was on floor.

Found blend door and actuator. Would like to replace or switch to heat only for winter then a/c for summer but not sure how to do this without removing the dash.

Is there a vacuum problem and if so where?

I ran the EATC on-board diagnostics and now the blend door moves and responds to the thermostatic controls. (?) The outside temp is reading much higher than actual. It's still too close to the max temp range (90) to tell if the heat is getting hot or just warm like last winter.

Where are the vacuum lines I should check located? I've been told there are some under the dash which I can't get to without pulling it and some somewhere on the firewall in the engine compartment.

Where is the outside temperature sensor located?

Where is the evaporator case drain located?

What else?

Have full A/C but no heat again this AM. Within norm op range for EATC and engine. Humid in car while running yet it is very dry here. Self diag error code 025. Reset and ran several times and ran again to verify.

Blend door actuator replaced. Vacuum lines checked. All works normally now but still no defrost. Now what am I missing?

CORRECTION: Blend door actuator replaced. Vacuum lines checked. All works normally now but still no defrost and heat comes out of a/c vents. Now what am I missing?

****UPDATE:****The dash is out again so I checked vacuum lines manually and the floor/defrost door, panel door (heater air damper door), and the recirculating air door all respond.
I have diagnostics and instructions for a Heater Control Cable replacement but there is not one attached to the EATC module nor is there a place that one would go so how does the EATC decide "defrost only" on mannual override when there is no dedicated defrost vacuum line or cable?
Also, is heat supposed to come out of the panel vents or just the floor and the defrost vents? When it is on "floor" on manual override the heat comes out of the panel vents also even when you select 60 degrees on the temperature selector.
Thanks so much for replying. It's starting to get cold here (Colorado) and I'm in panic mode as I'm traveling a lot between here and Wyoming and need her fixed so I can work. One more day off - need to find it soon!
Traci

Now I am looking for the interior temperature sensor location as there is some erratic behavior. When the heater gets hot then it suddenly gets lower and when the a/c gets cold then it suddenly gets warmer. It's like the interior air temperature sensor is in the airflow somewhere and is "correcting" the temperature it's calling for.

Still no air out of defrost ever.

What a nightmare.

**UPDATE 09/13/2011**
After blend door actuator replacement the A/C appears to work normally. The heating system still has the following problems:

THE TWO PRIMARY PROBLEMS ARE LOW HEAT QUALITY AND DEFROST BLOWS ONLY COLD AIR. ALSO LOW VOLUME BLOWER.

On any setting the heat at max (90 deg) does not heat the interior to more than approx upper 60s. A/C temp setting to actual appears correct but heat temp setting to actual is about 10-15 degrees off. Air is just lukewarm when asking for heat.

Even at 90 deg setting when switching to defrost it blows cold air only out the windshield vents.

All air all the time blows out of panel vents and must be manually redirected to floor or defrost by shutting the panel vents. But this may be just how the system operates (?)

Blower appears very low at all settings particularly defrost. It does go higher at manual (turn wheel) but seems low to me.

When switching to vent from any heat setting the air appears to be slightly warmer.

Covering the solar sensor changes nothing regarding defrost but I still don’t know if the solar sensor even has anything to do with the EATC.

What am I missing now?

Heater problem
1995 Lincoln Town Car V8 Four Wheel Drive Automatic

hi sir,

i have town car 1995, the problem is when I used the heater still the air coming cold