Engine Overheating

Tiny
CHIPSTERLEA
  • MEMBER
  • 1995 LEXUS ES 300
  • 6 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 162,000 MILES
Hello, I have a 95 lexus es 300 that has a overheating problem. I bought the car from an individual a couple of weeks ago and he said he had placed a new radiator and thermostat in the vehicle. After driving it for the first time the temperature hand rose to half way as normal but after that it started to rise up towards the red. After limping the car home I raised the hood to see that it was steaming and boiling under the hood. The radiator did indeed look to be new but I went ahead and bought a new thermostat and had it installed just to be sure about that. I replaced the radiator cap also and had the coolant flushed and replaced with new coolant. After starting the vehicle it still would start to overheat the same as before and after trying the old trick of turning the heat on to help slow down the heating I found the heater is not blowing out hot air. Thought maybe a head gasket but the car is not steaming from the tailpipe nor is the oil cap milky looking. I am stumped as to what this could be any suggestions will be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
Tuesday, October 19th, 2010 AT 7:11 AM

21 Replies

Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • MECHANIC
  • 41,815 POSTS
Hi chipsterlea,

Thank you for the donation.

Did you bleed the system? After engine cools down, remove radiator cap and top up coolant if necessary.

While bleeding cooling system, it is recommended to turn the heater on. Run engine for a rew minutes and if coolant does not drop, close radiator cap and run for 5 minutes. Stop engine and allow to cool. Recheck coolant level in radiator and repeat process till no more air are trapped in system.

Did you check the cooling fan? Is it working correctly?
Cooling fan used for ES300 is hydraulic and related to the power steering system.

As to the heater not blowing heated air, if the cooling system has air pockets, it would not work correctly.
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Tuesday, October 19th, 2010 AT 7:50 AM
Tiny
CHIPSTERLEA
  • MEMBER
  • 11 POSTS
Thanks for the reply.

Yes I did check the cooling fan it seems to be working properly, I added a little power steering fluid to the reservoir because it was low. The fan seems to increase in speed as the engine becomes warmer if that is indeed the way it is supposed to operate. Also how would I bleed the cooling system? Do I do it the way you mentioned in your post?
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Tuesday, October 19th, 2010 AT 9:08 AM
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • MECHANIC
  • 41,815 POSTS
Yes, the fan would work faster when the temperature increases.

Yes, perform the bleeding as described and monitor the coolant level.
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Tuesday, October 19th, 2010 AT 9:22 AM
Tiny
CHIPSTERLEA
  • MEMBER
  • 11 POSTS
I bled the system as you suggested. There was indeed small and big air bubbles rising to the top of the radiator. After about 7 or 8 minutes though the coolant level suddenly drops and it starts to spit the coolant out of the top of the radiator. I immediately shut the car off. Also after further checking the top radiator hose was hot but the bottom radiator hose was not hot or even warm at all. I also found that the top heater core hose was hot and the bottom one was cool I checked because I was still getting no heat. What now?
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Wednesday, October 20th, 2010 AT 6:32 AM
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • MECHANIC
  • 41,815 POSTS
1. Remove radiator cap.
2. Top up the coolant.
3. Close the radiator cap and run engine for 5 minutes.
4. Wait for engine to cool down.
5. Repeat above till the coolant level is at radiator neck when radiator cap is removed.

The upper hose being hot whereas the lower is cool because the thermostat is not opening when there is insufficient pressure.

The lower heater hose being cool could be due to the heater water control valve not opening correctly.

Check the valve cable adjustment.


https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/192750_HeaterWaterControlValve95ES300Fig03_1.jpg

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Wednesday, October 20th, 2010 AT 7:00 AM
Tiny
CHIPSTERLEA
  • MEMBER
  • 11 POSTS
So is the thermostat defective?

If I try this a few times and it doesnt work what does it mean then?

Could the heater core be bad and if so can it cause a car to overheat?
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Wednesday, October 20th, 2010 AT 7:24 AM
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • MECHANIC
  • 41,815 POSTS
It could be but when there are air pockets in system the thermostat might not work correctly as it has to be immersed in coolant. Perform the bleeding and if the overheating still occurs, then you need to check/test the thermostat.
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Wednesday, October 20th, 2010 AT 7:51 AM
Tiny
CHIPSTERLEA
  • MEMBER
  • 11 POSTS
Replaced thermostat but still have the same problem. Also the car will not overheat while idling the temperature hand will remain at the half way point, but when the car is placed in drive and it begins to drive off the temperature rises and it will eventually oveheat.
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Tuesday, December 7th, 2010 AT 9:16 PM
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • MECHANIC
  • 41,815 POSTS
You wuld have to check for clogging in the coolant passages and a weak water pump.
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Wednesday, December 8th, 2010 AT 6:52 PM
Tiny
CHIPSTERLEA
  • MEMBER
  • 11 POSTS
Turns out it was a bad water pump causing all the problems. Thanks for your help.
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Friday, January 14th, 2011 AT 1:04 PM
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • MECHANIC
  • 41,815 POSTS
You're welcome.

Glad to know you have fixed the problem and thanks for keeping me updated.

Have a great day.
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Friday, January 14th, 2011 AT 2:23 PM
Tiny
MISTY7401
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 1995 LEXUS ES 300
  • 6 CYL
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 120,000 MILES
I have had several problems with my engine overheating. We have changed the thermostat and water pump. It is still overheating. I understand that it has a hydrolic hose and the cooling fan is ran off of power steering fluid. The fan is moving, but not very fast(I can stop it with my hand) Is this normal? Could this be the problem? Do I need to replace the power steering pump or does it have a filter that can be changed? The power steering is fine and the fluid is full. We are having a hard time trying to figure out what is wrong.
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Wednesday, December 18th, 2019 AT 10:00 AM (Merged)
Tiny
DOCFIXIT
  • MECHANIC
  • 18,828 POSTS
Hi
Fan needs to be rotating very fast. There are two hydraulic pumps in P/S. One for steering and another for coolin fan.
need to check system pressure 142-284 psi. I'll provide diagram but think trip to Dealer maybe needed.


https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/198357_Graphic_34.jpg


Thanks for donate
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Wednesday, December 18th, 2019 AT 10:00 AM (Merged)
Tiny
CURTISFO
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 1995 LEXUS ES 300
Engine Cooling problem
1995 Lexus ES 300 6 cyl Two Wheel Drive Automatic 200k miles

This Vehicle has a new radiator and new thermostat, fan is working and kicks in gear when you speed up. The water pump is working. When you drive the car about 5 miles it overheats and you have to let it cool off. You can drive another 2 or 3 miles and you have to shut it down again. No antifreeze is lost. I have been told it may just need a radiator flush and new radiator cap and may just have an air pocket or the heads may be warped. Also told by Lexus it wouuld take a lot to warp heads on those engines.
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Wednesday, December 18th, 2019 AT 10:00 AM (Merged)
Tiny
BLUELIGHTNIN6
  • MECHANIC
  • 16,542 POSTS
Doubt if head is the issue, most likely radiator has failed or the cooling system has a partial clog somewhere (i.E. Heater core) prevent proper cooling. Have system flushed including heater core and after refilling bleed air out of the system.
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Wednesday, December 18th, 2019 AT 10:00 AM (Merged)
Tiny
GETSMAKKED
  • MEMBER
  • 21 POSTS
  • 1995 LEXUS ES 300
Engine Cooling problem
1995 Lexus ES 300 6 cyl Front Wheel Drive Automatic

Hi, for the past 2 months I have been regularly filling coolant in the reservoir with no leaks and no temp gauge fluctuating whatsoever, basically holding on to repairs til I had time. Well, just the other day my temp guage went through the roof, past max, never smoked or anything like that from overheating which I was lucky to make it home. So, I filled coolant into rad cap while engine was cool all the way and had it idle while pouring more coolant, and filled reservoir aswell. I thought everything was good, now my problem. Coolant leaks, my temp guage gets so hot when I'm idling, it cools very little while I'm driving, I find it gets very hot quickly when im on the highway. I tried rushing to get home, and I heard you can blast the heat and it should help a little at least, when I did that, I was getting no heat at all! Just cold air. I replaced p/s pump with hydraulic cooling fan solenoid, pressure hose, p/s pipe, not even a week ago. I always replace my parts with new OEM parts, I dont like fixing one problem if its connected to another problem that will need fixing later, rather replace the whole system if need be. Please help.
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Wednesday, December 18th, 2019 AT 10:00 AM (Merged)
Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MECHANIC
  • 75,992 POSTS
Hi getsmakked, Welcome to 2carpros and TY for the donation

Cooling fan is it coming On?

I recommend you replace the thermostat and see what happens don't work come on back
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Wednesday, December 18th, 2019 AT 10:00 AM (Merged)
Tiny
SHUSHDIOR
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 1995 LEXUS ES 300
  • 3.0L
  • 6 CYL
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 15,500 MILES
I recently bought a 1995 Lexus es300 I was able to talk him down to 900 and its clean but the title is salvage and I knew it was going to have issues but it runs great. Just little fixes here and there. It recently overheated on an offramp on the freeway. There was slight smoking and I could not start the car. I then saw there was no coolant and low oil. I was able to get the car home after adding coolant but it overheats when I get to a long stop. No sign of any leaks at all but when I add coolant to the radiator and the reservoir soon the reservoir will be empty. I changed the oil and added more coolant and bleeded the radiator and levels seem fine. I just want to know could there be any bigger issues? I haven't driven it for longer than about 10 minutes since I changed the oil and the heat was climbing just not as high as before. The next morning I bleed the radiator some more and added a little bit more oil then drove it a few miles and the needle stays at the second notch. I don't want her to overheat anymore and I kinda don't want to run her till I know she won't
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Wednesday, December 18th, 2019 AT 10:00 AM (Merged)
Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • MECHANIC
  • 33,727 POSTS
What you're describing is typical of a leaking cylinder head gasket. Most likely the previous owner knew this and is why you got a lower price. There's a chemical test that can be done at the radiator to check for this. The test involves drawing air from the radiator, while the engine is running, through a glass cylinder with two chambers partially-filled with a special dark blue liquid. If combustion gases are sneaking into the cooling system, the liquid will turn bright yellow.
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Wednesday, December 18th, 2019 AT 10:00 AM (Merged)
Tiny
BRIANJWIL
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 1995 LEXUS ES 300
Engine Cooling problem
1995 Lexus ES 300 6 cyl Two Wheel Drive Automatic

having a problem overheating want to chang out the thermastat but having problems getting the housing off the block where thermastat is. Have removed one bolt from underneath and removed a nut from on top but it still seems to be holding on, is there a third bolt or nut holding the housing in place, its hard to see because there are so many other hoses and things in the way.
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Wednesday, December 18th, 2019 AT 10:00 AM (Merged)

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