22re sputter problem

Tiny
TOYOTAMAN420
  • MEMBER
  • 1994 TOYOTA PICKUP
  • 4 CYL
  • 4WD
  • MANUAL
Have a 94 toyota.22re just had injectors replaced (venom injectors) now in the am its not holding fuel pressure over nite. I gotaa crank lil bit before it starts. Then when it does start it idles low n if I walk away it sputters n wants to die but if I go n give gas it corecects itself. During driving the truck the power surges in and out like its getting low fue pressure? But once I get like past 3000rpm power kicks in. Any thaughts
Wednesday, December 1st, 2010 AT 8:22 PM

14 Replies

Tiny
FIXITMR
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Why did you change injectors?
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Wednesday, December 1st, 2010 AT 9:22 PM
Tiny
TOYOTAMAN420
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Well was comin home from camp. Bout 50 miles all highway. Wellsville ohio to youngstown. 5th gear goin down hills it would jump like full shuttin down n kickn in. Its eiths gass or no. Cant just hold pedal at certain speed it starts jerkin. So as I was gettin off the off ramp. Back at home n I herd huge back fire. Got to the red light n went to go it would **** like injector was turnin off n on as I was doin 1mph-40mph. If I let off gas it would back fire sometimes. I made it to storage unit to unload my quad. Barely. Holdin pedal almost 3/4 to go 30mph. I tried drivin for couple days but next morning I went to go to werk n didnt get 3 miles down road n loss of power had to hold pedal all way down to go 3mph. I shut off it wouldnt start unless I had pedal to grpund. I took to mechanic we came up with number 3 injector was bad? If I unplugd it it would turn the other 3 back on n truck ran ok. So I baught a set of python injectors bran new truck ran great n smooth for a week. Then on highway I felt like pulsating in pedal doin 65 power kickin in in out and this is where iam at now. The old injectors would fire soon as I touch key. These new ones I gotta crank lil bit before it fires. Sorry for the bad typing im not much of computer guy thank you for your time
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Wednesday, December 1st, 2010 AT 9:53 PM
Tiny
FIXITMR
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It almost sounds like new injectors have inherited the same problem as old ones? Or more issues are popping up coincidentally? You didn't specify mileage as high mileage usually means anything can go wrong with anything at anytime. A thorough check of the fuel system seems to be the first place to look. Have you ever changed the fuel pump?
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Wednesday, December 1st, 2010 AT 10:44 PM
Tiny
TOYOTAMAN420
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Yea its got about 120k . Yea changed during summer but had problem with fuel line. Return line had hole in fuel pump asmbly so I had to switch the return line with the breather. I hope that aint messing everything up. Shouldnt tho? Fuel pump n filter. I unplug the cold start injecter in the am in it wont start so I kno the cold start is working but when it starts in 20degree morning it used to rev like 2000 now it barely breakys 600 till motor warms up then it rises to 2000. Been racking my brain
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Wednesday, December 1st, 2010 AT 11:27 PM
Tiny
FIXITMR
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It sounds like there is no auto idle control working. It's normal for a cold motor to want to run slower than when warm. I always put new plugs in just before cold weather too. Bosch platinum is my choice in plugs.
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Thursday, December 2nd, 2010 AT 12:59 AM
Tiny
TOYOTAMAN420
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What excatly does a knock sensor do? Or tps sensor? I was even thinking computer? Im stumpd. Cuz as the truck warms up like half hr or driving the sputtering gets lil better. Sumtimes it dont do it at all n truck runs a1. Yea I like bosh to but sum reason it runs best on ngks.
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Thursday, December 2nd, 2010 AT 1:42 AM
Tiny
TOYOTAMAN420
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Another thing I talkd to venom injectors this afternoon they said they will service them n test them for free n fix I guess ill see what comes out of that. It just makes me wonder why now I have to crank over allot to start even when the venoms were 1 day old. My old denso factory I barly touchd key n shed start
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Thursday, December 2nd, 2010 AT 1:45 AM
Tiny
FIXITMR
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I forgot to say it's normal for a cold motor and that's why they put an idle control in to raise the idle during warmup! Tps sensor is the way the computer reads your gas pedal position. It can be tested with an ohmeter and must show no glitches or it's bad. It just reads a steady increase/decrease in resistance as you turn it. And yah, there's always the possibility of a faulty computer. Knock sensor tells computer to increase ignition timing to avoid pre-spark ignition. The knock (ticky) sound is like a diesel firing beating the spark to the punch you might say!
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Thursday, December 2nd, 2010 AT 9:16 AM
Tiny
JOSEPHSTEPHENS
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Your problem is with the fuel regulator, your getting fuel but irregular pressures(surging), I know this post is old so hopefully you've gotten it fixed by know. Most of the time when its bad it will rev up up then down. Also with the knock sensor its either pass or fail-to check it get a screwdriver and put on the block and tap it with a hammer if the motor retards a bit after each tap than its doing its job. It is designed to kill motor and make for minimum damage in case of engine malfunction(rarely ever bad)
my geusses is feul pressure reg (80% of the time) or fuel pump (10%) or idle air control (10%)
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Thursday, February 10th, 2011 AT 2:58 PM
Tiny
JOSEPHSTEPHENS
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It should hold fuel preesure not necassarily ove rnight but for an hour or so, "but" the pressure naturely goes down but should not disappear completely. Over night as long as there is 4-5 lbs of pressure in the line than there is no air that has reversly been drawed into the line. If there is 0 pressure than 1. The fuel pressure regulator isn't doing its job 2. The check valve usually made inside the fuel pump(sometimes made on the hanger assembly) is letting the fuel backflow back in tank. If the pump is working but the check valve is at fault then this causes a hard start-slow to start issue. If the fuel pressure reg. Is at fault your injector can not work properly because they do not have sufficient pressure. If the fuel reg is bad its sending to much of the fuel that the pump sends to injectors back to the tank not letting the pressure rise to spec.
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Thursday, February 10th, 2011 AT 3:09 PM
Tiny
TOYOTAMAN420
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No man I havent fixd it yet. I wish. This is what I got now I start it the morning n it sputters but if I work pedal couple times the idle smothes out for couple sec then starts popin again. It will do this till it warms up them idles smooth as glass. No chek engine light on while its sputtering at idle. Now u try to drive it its a stick shift so as I graduly give it gas doin about 10 mph it starts********. Like its bucking. I go to change into 2nd gear its like no power I got pedal to floor in it gradualy picks up speed. Now sumtimes its perfect when I shift gears. Check engine came on today it was like no power n I had to have pedal to floor when check engine lite was on. Light went off n I had power again
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Thursday, February 10th, 2011 AT 4:06 PM
Tiny
FIXITMR
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So what's up with your truck. Any success?
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Thursday, February 24th, 2011 AT 6:49 AM
Tiny
TOYOTAMAN420
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Actualy I just got it bak friday lastweek. It was the mass air flo sensor. The mechanic swampd his sensor n no codes no crazy idle and I got power again. Now it is just trying to find one of them used is givin me a problem. I thank u guys for your time. I really apreciate it
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Thursday, February 24th, 2011 AT 1:11 PM
Tiny
FIXITMR
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I'm always happy to hear a success story even if the only help I was able to provide was to just be there while it worked it's way thru. Thanks for not leaving us hanging as to the outcome.
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Thursday, February 24th, 2011 AT 7:10 PM

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