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Jeep from hell!

Tiny
JEREMY76
  • MEMBER
  • 1994 JEEP CHEROKEE
  • 90,000 MILES
Hey guys thank u for your response, but it was not the theft system. After reading ur commet I tried it and still got nothing, so I started moving the distributor around and got it to run but not good at a idle it runs good at 1000 to 1500rpm.I know the distributor is controled by sensors but could I possibly have it in the wrong place?With the timing set were should the rotor be pointing when the timing marks are right?And the distributor has a pick-up coil in it could that be the problem? Note that it starts rough, runs smooth at 1000 to 1500rpm and slowly dies once u let off the gas.I already did a fuel pressure test and its running at 42 to 45 psi. Plsssss help, jeremy
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Monday, March 26th, 2012 AT 3:39 AM

20 Replies

Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • MECHANIC
  • 52,797 POSTS
Ok, with the number 1 cylinder at top dead center, the rotor should be pointing at number 1 in the cap. If you had to move the distributor to make it run, you may have a bad timing chain. Have it checked to confirm.

Roy
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Monday, March 26th, 2012 AT 3:43 AM
Tiny
JEREMY76
  • MEMBER
  • 30 POSTS
Thanks for ur response!But the timing chain is new and has very little play in chain. It wont start when the distributor is on the num 1 plug, it only starts when its at or around num 4.I have the timing marks at 6 and 12
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Monday, March 26th, 2012 AT 4:04 AM
Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • MECHANIC
  • 52,797 POSTS
Did you do a compression test? It will verify that you have the chain set right.

Roy
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Monday, March 26th, 2012 AT 4:07 AM
Tiny
JEREMY76
  • MEMBER
  • 30 POSTS
Hey roy! Ya I did a compression test just to make sure and its at the tdc, and it is but the distributor was not pointing at num 1 so I moved it to num 1 and didnt get any thing. Note when I got this jeep the motor was rebuildt and the people who did it did not mark the distributor upon removel, the distributor body has a 1 position setting but I know the rotor has a differnt spot which should be num 1 spark but it wont run in that spot, could the pick-up be bad?
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Monday, March 26th, 2012 AT 4:19 AM
Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • MECHANIC
  • 52,797 POSTS
You could be on valve over lap or 180 degrees off. Rotate the motor one more revolution and re check.

Roy
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Monday, March 26th, 2012 AT 4:31 AM
Tiny
JEREMY76
  • MEMBER
  • 30 POSTS
Hey roy! Ok that could be the problem, I have not tried that! But is it possible I have it right but the pick up coil isnt working or would that trigger the check engine lite?
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Monday, March 26th, 2012 AT 4:43 AM
Tiny
JEREMY76
  • MEMBER
  • 30 POSTS
Ok so what ur sayin is that the crank moves 2 revolutions and the cam only does 1 revolution, which would put the valve timing off 180?
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Monday, March 26th, 2012 AT 4:53 AM
Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • MECHANIC
  • 52,797 POSTS
Thats correct, and the pick up will not trigger a code in obd 1 systems.

Roy
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Monday, March 26th, 2012 AT 5:07 AM
Tiny
JEREMY76
  • MEMBER
  • 30 POSTS
Ok I do not have a check engine lite on so it is possible it could be the coil pick-up? Thanks u roy for ur help it defiantly was a big help! Any other possible suggestion before I go?
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Monday, March 26th, 2012 AT 5:18 AM
Tiny
JEREMY76
  • MEMBER
  • 30 POSTS
Is there a way to test the pick-up coil?
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Monday, March 26th, 2012 AT 5:38 AM
Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • MECHANIC
  • 52,797 POSTS
Ohm reading with a meter should be 800-1500 ohms.

Roy
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Monday, March 26th, 2012 AT 6:47 PM
Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
  • MECHANIC
  • 11,004 POSTS
DON'T MEAN TO BUTT IN---BUT WHEN YOU PUT THE DIST POINTING TO #1--DID YOU JUST TWIST IT THERE. OR DID YOU PICK IT UP OUT OF THE CAM GEAR (REMOVE THE DIST AND TURN THE SHAFT UNTIL IT DROPPED IN POINTING AT #1)?

NOT TRYING TO MAKE YOU SOUND BAD---WE SORTA CAN'T SEE WHAT'S HAPPENING ON YOUR END. YOU WOULDN'T BELIEVE SOME OF THE STUFF WE SEE!

THE MEDIC
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Tuesday, March 27th, 2012 AT 2:51 AM
Tiny
JEREMY76
  • MEMBER
  • 30 POSTS
Hey roy thanks for responding! Ya I picked the whole distributor up and move the gear, and everything lines up with the timing marks right on crank at 12 cam 6 and the distributor body only sits one way where it can be bolted, so u have to move the rotor gear to num 1. But I defiantly understand I know u guys here some crazy stuff! I was reading some of the questions u guys get! And I did try the 180 cam and I got no start, see I didnt rebuild this motor I got someone elses nightmare!Im pretty good with timing and never had this many problems the only way ive gotten to run so far is with the timing set and the rotor gear pointing at 4! Its not making any sense, but im goin to check the ohms with the readings u gave, plss any more suggestions let me know I greatly appreciate ur help. And thanks
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Tuesday, March 27th, 2012 AT 4:16 PM
Tiny
JEREMY76
  • MEMBER
  • 30 POSTS
Thanks medic im more than happy to hear any ideas u got!
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Tuesday, March 27th, 2012 AT 5:24 PM
Tiny
JEREMY76
  • MEMBER
  • 30 POSTS
Hey guys I said earlier that when I got it to start before I said the rotor was at 4, I meant 6 spark plug. Sorry bout that
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Tuesday, March 27th, 2012 AT 8:07 PM
Tiny
JEREMY76
  • MEMBER
  • 30 POSTS
Hey guys thanks for all ur help! It was the pick-up, I changed it and it fired right up!After a ohm test showed it was under, thanks again jeremy
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Sunday, April 1st, 2012 AT 12:12 AM
Tiny
JEREMY76
  • MEMBER
  • 30 POSTS
Hey guys after gettin this jeep runnin I found it has a blown rear main seal, is there any tricks on how 2 change it with out dropin the whole crank? Please let me know if there is a way! Thank u jeremy
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Monday, April 16th, 2012 AT 6:39 PM
Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
  • MECHANIC
  • 11,004 POSTS
I LOOKED BACK THRU YOUR STUFF---I FOUND NO MENTION OF WHICH ENGINE YOU HAVE

I ALSO TOOK "1994 CHEROKEE" AT FACE VALUE AS NOT BEING A GRAND CHEROKEE

WITH THIS INFO YOU EITHER HAVE A 2.5L OR A 4.0L ENGINE

THE 2.5 LOOKS TO HAVE A ONE PIECE REAR MAIN SEAL AND MR. ENGINE WOULD HAVE TO COME OUT TO INSTALL IT...SORRY
IF YOU HAPPEN TO HAVE THE 4.0L THINGS LOOK A LITTLE MORE PROMISING---DROP THE PAN---REMOVE REAR BEARING CAP---TAP 'ER OUT JUST LIKE A CJ 258

THIS FELLER SHOWS THE PROCESS RATHER NICELY---CAMERA SHOTS COULD BE BETTER (HE DOES PRETTY GOOD REGARDLESS)......YOU MIGHT SEARCH FOR OTHER VIDEOS---
THIS VIDEO IN CONJUNCTION WITH A PRINTED REPAIR MANUAL WOULD AID ME IN DOING THIS REPAIR AS CORRECTLY AS POSSIBLE (A MANUAL WOULD BE HELPFUL WITH TORQUES, STEPS, CAUTIONS---THE VIDEO WOULD SHOW YOU REAL WORLD WHAT IS HAPPENING) JUST REMEMBER THIS FELLER MIGHT BE LEAVING OUT SOME STUFF...THE MANUAL WOULD HELP, IF HE DOES.

https://www.2carpros.com/questions/2007-ford-taurus-tune-up

YOU REALLY SHOULD HAVE A MANUAL---THE COOL THING ABOUT THIS SITE IS THEY HAVE SCANNED THE ORIGINAL AMC JEEP CJ MANUALS (WHICH ARE THE MOST WONDERFUL MANUALS FOR A CJ, I HAVE AN ORIGINAL PAPER MANUAL FOR 1979)----SINCE THEY POSTED THE CJ STUFF, THEY ALSO HAVE ADDED OTHER NEWER MODELS LIKE YOURS.....DON'T FRET, IF YOURS IS NOT LISTED YEAR-WISE...JUST GO UP OR DOWN A YEAR FOR YOUR INFO---USE THE SECOND SECTION DOWN..."ONLINE REPAIR MANUAL"

THE ONLY THING I HAVE NOT DONE IS TO LOAD A FEW TOOL UP AND ACTUALLY DRIVE EITHER OF MY JEEPS TO YOUR LOCATION AND DO THIS FOR YOU........THEY WILL MAKE IT THERE, REGARDLESS OF THEIR AGES 36 AND 66 YEARS RESPECTIVELY

I REALLY WOULD LIKE TO KNOW HOW THIS IS GOING FOR YOU....I TOO AM A DIYer FROM WAY BACK, NOT A PAID MECHANIC

THE MEDIC
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Tuesday, April 17th, 2012 AT 12:48 AM
Tiny
JEREMY76
  • MEMBER
  • 30 POSTS
Hey cj thanks for ur response! I found it much easier to lift the motor bout 2 inches which is nice cause I dont hav to disconnect anything other than the motor mounts. This is the 4.0 im workin on, then with the oil pan hanging take off the oil pick-up tube and get it out of ur way, then remove the main bearing caps but before taking them all off support the crank with wood or wire, once there all off u should get just a little play at the rear of the crank which releases the pressure on the upper seal, now u can slide the seal out with a pick, and the new seal will slide back in easy without the pressure of the crank on it, the hardest part is tightening the bearing caps to spec from underneath the car. But it wasent to bad! I hope this helps jeremy
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Wednesday, April 18th, 2012 AT 2:40 PM
Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
  • MECHANIC
  • 11,004 POSTS
ON 258s (4.2) USED IN AMC CARS AND JEEPS, I FOUND THAT THE 2" MOTOR LIFT WAS THE EZist TO DO ALSO. HOWEVER THE ONLY CAP I REMOVED WAS THE REAR. A LITTLE SHOT OF RTV HIGH TEMP TO SEAL THE TWO SEAL HALVES AND SMEAR IT REARWARD TO SEAL THE CAP. WAH-LAH. DONE!

I HOPE THAT SOME OF THE LINKS WERE BENEFICIAL TO YOU. ESPECIALLY THE MORRIS 4X4 KNOWLEDGE BASE

IF YOU EVER RUN INTO A BUNCH OF MONEY.'MEMBER YOUR JEEP PAL

THE MEDIC

JUST TOOK A FEW PICS OF "WILLY" FROM A DEER STAND YESTERDAY. HE ALMOST LOOKS LIKE A LITTLE TOY. EVEN THOUGH HE IS A BIG ONE!
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Wednesday, April 18th, 2012 AT 8:07 PM

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