Engine Pinging on startup

Tiny
CARLOS SOSA
  • MEMBER
  • 2003 FORD RANGER
  • 2.3L
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 84,000 MILES
Hi all,

When I start the vehicle and the engine is completely cold, I am hearing an engine rattle/pinging. Once the truck warms up, the rattle becomes nearly inaudible. I can still hear it as a very faint tapping.

I've investigated the noise with a stethoscope and I am very certain it's coming from the top end. I don't hear valve lash once the engine is warmed up, so I am fairly confident this issue maybe related to either a loose timing chain, a loose timing chain tensioner, or both.

From what I understand, the 2.3L Duratec engine has a metal chain guide that rests on the tensioner. It almost sounds like the chain guide is bouncing on the tensioner.

First question:
Can the tensioner be replaced without removing the timing chain?

Second question:
In case I need to replace the timing chain, would it be possible for someone to share disassembly and timing procedures here?
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Monday, October 5th, 2020 AT 9:40 AM

15 Replies

Tiny
CARLOS SOSA
  • MEMBER
  • 7 POSTS
Update:

I pulled the intake manifold and the swirl flap on cylinder 2, which is in the vicinity of where I was hearing this tapping noise, is very loose. I can shake it with my finger. All other swirl flaps are not loose at all.

Is this a common problem with this engine? Could this make a loud tapping noise when starting?
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Monday, October 5th, 2020 AT 12:28 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 108,014 POSTS
Hi,

I'm going to start with the idea that yes, the swirl flap can be making the noise. The only thing is that it seems odd it would stop when it warms up.

Next, the tensioner can be replaced without removing the chain, but you have to make sure to keep tension on the chain when it is removed to prevent it from jumping time.

_______________________

I am going to provide the directions for the chain and tensioner replacement. You will only need to do the tensioner and I would recommend the guide as well, but that's your call. The chain replacement is there in the event you decide to do it as well. All pics correlate with the directions.

_________________________

2003 Ford Truck Ranger 2WD L4-2.3L VIN D
Timing Drive Components
Vehicle Engine, Cooling and Exhaust Engine Timing Components Service and Repair Procedures Timing Drive Components
TIMING DRIVE COMPONENTS
Timing Drive Components

Special Tools
pic 1

Removal

CAUTION: Do not loosen or remove the crankshaft pulley bolt without first installing the special tools as instructed in the crankshaft pulley procedure. The crankshaft pulley and the crankshaft timing sprocket are not keyed to the crankshaft. The crankshaft, the crankshaft sprocket and the pulley are fitted together by friction, using diamond washers between the flange faces on each part. For that reason, the crankshaft sprocket is also unfastened if the pulley bolt is loosened. Before any repair requiring loosening or removal of the crankshaft pulley bolt, the crankshaft and camshafts must be locked in place by the special tools, otherwise severe engine damage may occur. See: Harmonic Balancer - Crankshaft Pulley > Service and Repair

1. Remove the engine front cover. See: Timing Cover > Removal and Replacement

pic 2

2. Compress the timing chain tensioner in the following sequence.
1. Using a small pick, release and hold the ratchet mechanism.
2. While holding the ratchet mechanism in the released position, compress the tensioner by pushing the timing chain arm toward the tensioner.
3. Insert a paper clip into the hole to retain the tensioner.

Pic 3

3. Remove the 2 bolts and the timing chain tensioner.

Pic 4

4. Remove the RH timing chain guide.

Pic 5

5. Remove the timing chain.

Pic 6

6. Remove the bolts and the LH timing chain guide.

Pic 7

7. NOTICE: Do not rely on the Camshaft Alignment Plate to prevent camshaft rotation. Damage to the tool or the camshaft can occur.

If necessary, remove the bolts and the camshaft sprockets.
Use the flats on the camshaft to prevent camshaft rotation.

Installation

pic 8

1. Remove the special tool.

Pic 9

2. NOTICE: Do not rotate the camshafts. Damage to the valves and pistons can occur.

If the camshaft sprockets were not removed, use the flats on the camshafts to prevent camshaft rotation and loosen the sprocket bolts.

Pic 10

3. If removed, install the camshaft sprockets and the bolts. Do not tighten the bolts at this time.

Pic 11

4. Install the LH timing chain guide and bolts.

Pic 12

5. Install the timing chain.

Pic 13

6. Install the RH timing chain guide.

NOTE: If the timing chain plunger and ratchet assembly are not pinned in the compressed position, follow the next 4 steps.

Pic 14

7. NOTICE: Do not compress the ratchet assembly. This will damage the ratchet assembly.

Using the edge of a vise, compress the timing chain tensioner plunger.

Pic 15

8. Using a small pick, push back and hold the ratchet mechanism.

Pic 16

9. While holding the ratchet mechanism, push the ratchet arm back into the tensioner housing.

Pic 17

10. Install a paper clip into the hole in the tensioner housing to hold the ratchet assembly and the plunger in during installation.

Pic 18

11. Install the timing chain tension and the bolts. Remove the paper clip to release the piston.

Pic 19

12. Install the special tool.

Pic 20

13. NOTICE: Do not rely on the Camshaft Alignment Plate to prevent camshaft rotation. Damage to the tool or the camshafts can result.

Using the flats on the camshafts to prevent camshaft rotation, tighten the bolts.

14. Install the front cover. See: Timing Cover > Removal and Replacement

______________________________

As far as the swirl valve, it could be the cause of the noise. However, you should notice a drivability issue with it if one is bad. Is that the case?

Joe
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Monday, October 5th, 2020 AT 6:37 PM
Tiny
JEEPNKID71
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
  • 1999 FORD RANGER
  • 6 CYL
  • 4WD
  • MANUAL
  • 102,000 MILES
I have noticed alot of pinging in my 4.0L Ranger lately. I run 87 octane fuel and have never had a problem until now. I have tried fuel from different service stations but that has not helped. The pinging usually occurs in 3rd or 4th gear or if I am hauling something heavy in the bed of my truck. I have also noticed that the pinging only occurs when it is hot outside and the engine is to normal operating temperature. It does not ping in the mornings when it is still cool outside or when I leave work in the afternoons when the engine is still cool. When the engins is warm and the outside air is about 80 degrees in hotter it will ping. Please help.
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Thursday, November 12th, 2020 AT 10:46 AM (Merged)
Tiny
DOCFIXIT
  • MECHANIC
  • 18,828 POSTS
Check engine comming on? If so pull codes and post if not. Then check EGR vaccum to it? Remove valve clean with carb cleaner also clean out passages in intake.
Hope this helps
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Thursday, November 12th, 2020 AT 10:46 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JIMGEDDES
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
  • 1994 FORD RANGER
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • MANUAL
  • 300,000 MILES
I have a 1994 Ford Ranger XL 2.3l 4 cylinder 5 speed manual trans 2 wheel drive standard cab. High milage 300,000+ uses no oil. I am experiencing an engine ping or rattle while trying to maintain speed up a long incline, 50+mph. If I do not let off the throttle and try to push harder on the trottle to maintain speed the engine loses power pings more and seems to start missing. Engine runs pretty well around town and idle is good.
I have checked engine compression #1 145 #2 145 #3 170 #4 170. I have not done a cylinder leak down test yet. I did try some seafome in the combustian chambers only and water injecting through a vacume port to lesson carbon deposits hopefully. I replaced Spark plugs, spark plugs wires, Mass air sensor, Egr presure sensor, egr vacume regulator, egr valve, and fuel pump. There are no codes on a scan tool I've done 2 tests koeo and koer (key on eng off and key on eng on ) I've also checked ingnition timing 10 degree's initial at idel and between 30-40 eng revved in netral. Fuel presure is 30psi and 40 psi with presure regulator vacume hose disconnected.
I'm not quite sure what part to throw at it next. I do have a NEW set of fuel injectors I will install but I do not think that will cure the problem.
Ignition coils, ignition control module, power train control module, speed sensor, throttle position sensor?
Any help would be great
Thank you
Jim Geddes
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Thursday, November 12th, 2020 AT 10:46 AM (Merged)
Tiny
WRENCHTECH
  • MECHANIC
  • 20,757 POSTS
This truck should have two removable shunts in the wiring. One of them is the SPOUT connector for setting the timing but the other one is an Octane Adjustment switch that when removed, lowers the ignition timing by 3 degrees to help a problem like this. You also want to make sure the EGR passage is not restricted with carbon and the system is working properly.
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Thursday, November 12th, 2020 AT 10:46 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JIMGEDDES
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
Thank you for your answer. I'm looking into the octane switch. I guess I do not under stand why after so many miles the octane switch would now make a difference. I use chevron fuel 85% of the time and have tired a few different grades and brands since the probl, em showed up maybe 600 miles ago. We have had 10% alcohol in the fuel here in portland for sometime now. The pinging started suddenly. Then there is the power loss associated with the ping, not really a knock sound or a tap, and the enging runs rough after 20 seconds or so after the ping starts.
Thanks again for the prompt answer
Jim Geddes
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Thursday, November 12th, 2020 AT 10:46 AM (Merged)
Tiny
WRENCHTECH
  • MECHANIC
  • 20,757 POSTS
I'd concentrate on looking for a lean mixture or inoperative EGR.
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Thursday, November 12th, 2020 AT 10:46 AM (Merged)
Tiny
VANN
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • FORD RANGER
I have a 1998 Ford Ranger XLT 4x4 with 4.0 engine and 122,400 miles.

Recently, the engine started pinging and burning oil.

Last oil change, the oil was about a quart low on 5000 miles. Since then, I have added 4 quarts in less than 3000 miles.

The pinging doesn't start until the engine has warmed up and run for 20 or 30 minutes.

The engine still has relatively good power for an engine with 122,400 miles on it. It starts easily and runs smooth once speed levels out. The engine does change rpms slightly during accelaration.

I have taken it to 2 shops and they can not find the problem. Can you help?

Thanks,

James
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Thursday, November 12th, 2020 AT 10:47 AM (Merged)
Tiny
2CARPRO JACK
  • MECHANIC
  • 11,533 POSTS
Does it have a low speed or miss at idle? Have the shop do a leak down test on all cylinders to eliminate the possibility of a broken ring or the such. Might even be an intake gasket that has been "sucked" and is drawing in the oil from there
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Thursday, November 12th, 2020 AT 10:47 AM (Merged)
Tiny
MERLIN2021
  • MECHANIC
  • 17,250 POSTS
As long as you're burning this much oil, and it is alot! O2 sensors are being adversly affected! Fuel mixure can't be set properly!
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Thursday, November 12th, 2020 AT 10:47 AM (Merged)
Tiny
SHININGSTAR
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • FORD RANGER
I have a 99 ranger, it pings most of the time especially when warmed up. V-6 3.0 I run premium it helps a bit. Whats the problem??
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Thursday, November 12th, 2020 AT 10:47 AM (Merged)
Tiny
2CARPRO JACK
  • MECHANIC
  • 11,533 POSTS
Since that vehicle doesnt have an octane shorting bar, I would guess mixture control problem or EGR problem. Either way its probably running lean when warmed up.A new fuel filter and tune up is a basic place to start, but it might require in-depth diagnosis. Could be the fuel pump, coolant sensor, Mass Airflow Maeter, etc
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Thursday, November 12th, 2020 AT 10:47 AM (Merged)
Tiny
SERVICE WRITER
  • MECHANIC
  • 9,123 POSTS
For what it matters. Ford has a revised MAF sensor or EGR valve for the pinging problem-I don't recall which. They also have an updated computer for the pinging. However, A Ford source tells me that it doesn't always work?
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Thursday, November 12th, 2020 AT 10:47 AM (Merged)
Tiny
TAURUSWHEEL
  • MECHANIC
  • 718 POSTS
I had an issue with my 94 Taurus pinging, all systems checked out, comp was healthy 160 across all cylinders, what I ended up doing was dumping a couple of cans of GM Top Cleaner into the upper end through the vacuum lines and let it sit for an hour, fired it up smoked like an sob for a while, poof ping is gone. I'm thinking possible dirty intake valves. Ford Dealer also told me that ping is an issue, not always solvable, but this solution worked for me. I think Ford makes some type of intake cleaner also.
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Thursday, November 12th, 2020 AT 10:47 AM (Merged)

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