Timing chain replacement

Tiny
PNAPIER
  • MEMBER
  • 2001 SATURN SL1
  • 4 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 92,000 MILES
How do I replace the timing chain
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Wednesday, March 18th, 2009 AT 12:41 PM

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Tiny
BMRFIXIT
  • MECHANIC
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Hello,

Here is the instructions on how to replace the timing chain in the diagrams below. Check out the diagrams (Below). Please let us know if you need anything else to get the problem fixed.
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Wednesday, March 18th, 2009 AT 5:29 PM
Tiny
DONM2967
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  • 1 POST
  • 2000 SATURN SL1
  • 4 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 150,000 MILES
I would like to know the proper timing procedure for timing chain installation. It is a dohc engine.
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Thursday, April 30th, 2020 AT 10:47 AM (Merged)
Tiny
SATURNTECH9
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If u havent taken the chain off yet all u do is turn the engine over clockwise with the front cover off and the spark plugs out till the crank mark on the crank sprocket lines up at the 12 o clock postion on the block. Then look at the intake and exhaust cam sprokets there marks shoulod be up. Another way to verify that the cam sprockets are lined up is there are dowl holes in the head and the cam sprockets. When there lined up correctly ur dead on.I belive the size of there holes are 5/32" drill bit. Also when u take off the front cover make sure u put a rag in the opening below the crank so nothing falls into the oil pan. Also number 1 and 4 cycl will be top dead when ur marks are lined up. Let me know how it goes.
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Thursday, April 30th, 2020 AT 10:47 AM (Merged)
Tiny
SKIDADDY
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  • 1 POST
  • 2000 SATURN SL1
  • 4 CYL
  • FWD
  • MANUAL
  • 204,000 MILES
Car makes rattling noise when starting for 2-4 seconds and fades out. One mechanic at a local car shop thinks it is the timing chain tensioner worn out and needs replacement soon. I have been very good at keeping oil changes and maintaining oil levels.

If this true, what would the estimate be?
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Thursday, April 30th, 2020 AT 10:47 AM (Merged)
Tiny
DOCFIXIT
  • MECHANIC
  • 18,828 POSTS
Hi
Very possible tensioner and guides would be worn at that milage. see diagram


https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/198357_Grafic_3_74.jpg


Cost @$700 -$850
Hope this helps
Thanks for donate
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Thursday, April 30th, 2020 AT 10:47 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JAKESTER6969
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 1997 SATURN SL1
Engine Mechanical problem
1997 Saturn SL1 4 cyl Front Wheel Drive Automatic

is therre any secrets that I should be aware of when it comes to replacing the timing chain on a sohc engine? Any pointers or advice would be greatly appreciated. Thank you very much.
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Thursday, April 30th, 2020 AT 10:47 AM (Merged)
Tiny
WRENCHTECH
  • MECHANIC
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Just a couple things. Do not rotate the engine with the chain removed or you could do valve damage. Be sure to also replace all plastic guides. They wear even more than the chain. Make sure you get all gasket surfaces real clean. Most of them rely on only silicone to seal.
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Thursday, April 30th, 2020 AT 10:47 AM (Merged)
Tiny
GPSCHULT
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  • 1996 SATURN SL1
Engine Mechanical problem
1996 Saturn SL1 Automatic 149000 miles

Several days ago, I tried to start my car but couldn't get the engine to catch. I had it towed to a mechanic, who told me the timing chain was broken. This would have happened either right before I last turned the car off, or right when I started it that morning. I tried to start it maybe eight times over the course of several days before having it towed. But it's unlikely that it would have broken at a high RPM. Is there any way to ball park the chances that the broken chain caused valve or piston damage? Thanks!
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Thursday, April 30th, 2020 AT 10:47 AM (Merged)
Tiny
OBXAUTOMEDIC
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Hello,

Since your vehicle is not interference there is a very very small chance of valve or piston damage.

In all my year I have never (knock on wood) had a vehicle witha broken chain or belt have any valve or piston damage.

.
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Thursday, April 30th, 2020 AT 10:48 AM (Merged)
Tiny
ALBUNCE344
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  • 1 POST
  • 1993 SATURN SL1
So I recently bought my car from someone and it was making a noise so I looked at the timing chain and the gear it was on was broken so before I put the car back together I need to know, How do I reset the timing?
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Thursday, April 30th, 2020 AT 10:48 AM (Merged)
Tiny
SATURNTECH9
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For the crank line up the line at the 12 o clock mark on the block. For the cam you Line up the dowl hole on the cam sprocket in the head with mark on the sprocket at the 12 o clock. Then line up the color links with the marks on the sprockets.
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Thursday, April 30th, 2020 AT 10:48 AM (Merged)
Tiny
ALYOSHABLUE
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  • 6 POSTS
  • 1993 SATURN SL1
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • MANUAL
After researching this site and others, here is how I can best explain this scenario.

Engine is the 1.9L SOHC LK0 or L24

Situation: While driving to work, my friend's car "seemed to be loosing power." When she got to work, parked it, only later to unsuccessfully start the car. The car was towed to a garage.

The garage said that she "broke" her timing chain and that it would need to be replaced and there might be possible engine damage.

So, after research, I feel I can replace the "broken" timing chain. If I did, I would buy a replacement kit, which includes the sprockets, the guides the tensioner and a new chain. Not really a big deal it seems.

However, as I have learned, since this engine is an "interference" engine, it is likely that upon failure of the timing chain, that any number of the valves could be bent and possibly the pistons bent as well.

Questions:

1. Is there a way I can (relatively) easily check to see if the valves and/or pistons are damaged?

2. If it is only bent valves, can I just replace the valves and get away with it?

3. If not, and the valves need replaced, what other valve related parts need replaced?

4. About 5 days prior to this problem, she had her oil pan replaced - could that have led to this problem, since the tensioner seems to be actuated hydraulically by the oil (i.E. A poor oil pan installation led to oil leakage, led to no tensioner actuation, led to chain slippage, etc.)?
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Thursday, April 30th, 2020 AT 10:48 AM (Merged)
Tiny
SATURNTECH9
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If you have a bore scope you could go into the spark holes and try to see if the valves are closing all the way and not bent. Otherwise you would put a chain on and leave the front cover off perform a compression test on all the cylinders if you have good compression your ok. As far as if the valves are bent you would have to remove the head to see what you would need to replace at that point. Most of the time the pistons win and the valve bend and the pistons are ok. The oil pan being replaced and the timing chain being replaced I would think wouldn't be related. The timing chain tenisor is oil pressure feed but that is only used to take the slack out of the chain as it wears and stretches. There is a ratchet that locks the tensior as it extends out the oil pressure doesn't hold the tensioner in its position. Also ebay has some pretty good prices on the tenisoner kits.I would use the permatex ultra grey to reseal the front cover thats what I have been using.
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Thursday, April 30th, 2020 AT 10:48 AM (Merged)
Tiny
ALYOSHABLUE
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Saturntech9: Thanks for those answers. Based upon your answer and what I have gathered throughout reading all the forums, it's likely that one or several of the valves are bent. So, I am going to assume that. However, it is possible that something else could be messed up so, here is my plan of action:

1. Put the new chain kit on and then perform a compression test. This would clue me into which cylinder has problems.

2. If there is a cylinder with a problem, I am going to have to remove the head and see what in that cylinder is causing the problem.

3. Replace any valves and valve components as needed (assuming the piston won this battle).

4. I would also get a new head gasket kit to replace and seal the gasket I am removing, since I am in there (using the Permatex Ultra Grey as needed).

5. Sounds like I should put new spark plugs in while I am at it.

So, Saturntech9, does that sound about right? Also, should I consider any water pump issues as a result of this mechanical issue - or is that not related?

Thanks again for your time.
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Thursday, April 30th, 2020 AT 10:48 AM (Merged)
Tiny
SATURNTECH9
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Sounds like you have a great plan as far as the water pump goes it runs off the drive belt not the chain. If the water pump is not leaking or you can't take the pulley and move it side to side then I would not replace it.
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Thursday, April 30th, 2020 AT 10:48 AM (Merged)
Tiny
ALYOSHABLUE
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Cool deal, saturntech9. I will be working on this the next few days and will close this thread with the results. Thanks, again.
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Thursday, April 30th, 2020 AT 10:48 AM (Merged)
Tiny
SATURNTECH9
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Your welcome that's what were here for. Just a little tip when you put the front cover back on you must line up the oil pump in the front cover with the crank shaft as your putting it on use a small screwdriver to line it up that's what I use.
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Thursday, April 30th, 2020 AT 10:48 AM (Merged)
Tiny
ALYOSHABLUE
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  • 6 POSTS
Saturntech9:

Had a heck of a time with a few bolts, but I should have expected that with a car that is roughly 17 years old (thanks for PB Blaster). I am at a point where I am uncertain of something:

1. Do I have to remove the bolt on the crankshaft to remove the cover (thinking that it might be held in there by a slotted fit and I might just have to tug on it)?

2. Do I have to remove the bolt on the top center fly-wheel to remove the cover (I am thinking I don't since it seems it might fixed to the cover itself).

Assuming I had to remove the crankshaft bolt (5/8" I believe), I was trying to wedge a socket handle (and other stiff objects) against the crankshaft pulley to keep it from rotating, while I tried to unloosen the nut - but to no avail. That is why I asked the question above.

Again, thanks for all your help.

Alyoshablue
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Thursday, April 30th, 2020 AT 10:48 AM (Merged)
Tiny
SATURNTECH9
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Yes the balancer has to come off it's a 21mm bolt its very tight i would remove the little flywheel cover get a flywheel holding tool and hold the flywheel while someone breaks the bolt loose with a breaker bar.The flywheel cover has three 8mm bolts holding it on there is also a brace that goes from the engine to transmission.Here is that flywheel tool iam talking about unless you have a very strong impact that is your best bet.

http://www.amazon.com/Powerbuilt-648455-Flywheel-Turning-Tool/dp/B001CZJ4J0/ref=pd_sbs_auto_1
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Thursday, April 30th, 2020 AT 10:48 AM (Merged)
Tiny
ALYOSHABLUE
  • MEMBER
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Saturntech9:

I've broken two ratchet sets trying to loosen the bolt on the "balancer" - which connects to the crankshaft. I went to Autozone last night in search of the fly wheel tool you suggested and after talking with the folks there, the said, "just get an electric (I forget) drill, which you can purchase at Harbor Freight for the maximum of $50. Makes sense, as it seems I can't provide enough torque on the bolt. Let me know if that makes sense.

Additionally, what seemed to be a simple experience of give and take, posting on this site, this job is taking on some elements which are requiring specific questions and a considerable amount of time on my behalf and ultimately, your behalf. So, in good conscious, I don't feel comfortable continuing the back and forth without compensating you for your knowledge and time. I would not know how to proceed with this, however, if you were to agree with this, it might make sense to just send you a check? I believe in what goes around, comes around - and you've been more than generous with your time.

Thanks, Saturntech9.
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Thursday, April 30th, 2020 AT 10:48 AM (Merged)

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