2002 Dodge Stratus with 2.4

Tiny
FAST07
  • MEMBER
  • 1992 DODGE STRATUS
  • 4 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 160 MILES
My car will run about 20 miles then die and won't restrat for about 15 minutes then it'll go about 15 miles and die again sometimes it will restart other times I have to be pulled home. I let it sit over night started right up drove it to the garage ( 2 miles away) got some front end work down drove it home ( 2 miles) went about 15 miles later on and did same thing I am getting p codes 1684: battery loss after 50 starts, 0320: ignition distributor engine speed circuit malfunction, 1389: auto shut down relay voltage, 0401: exhaust gas circulation flow in sufficent, 0442: evap emmision system leak ( small), 0445: evap emession purge control valve shorted, I replaced the asd relay
Friday, February 4th, 2011 AT 9:25 PM

7 Replies

Tiny
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  • MECHANIC
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Double-check the vehicle details. There was no Stratus in '92 and the four cylinder engine doesn't use a distributor. Four-digit codes were used beginning in '96. Based on the 320 code and the symptoms, I would suspect the camshaft position sensor first, then the crankshaft position sensor. Both commonly begin to fail by becoming heat-sensitive, then they will work again when they cool down.

Caradiodoc
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Friday, February 4th, 2011 AT 10:18 PM
Tiny
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Don't know how to change the details it is a 2002 dodge stratus 2.4 sedan sorry
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Friday, February 4th, 2011 AT 10:44 PM
Tiny
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Dandy. I don't like throwing parts at a problem in hopes one will solve it, but when it's intermittent, and especially when there's a related code, I'd start by trying a new camshaft position sensor.

Caradiodoc
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Friday, February 4th, 2011 AT 11:09 PM
Tiny
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But wouldn't my computer throw me a p code telling me that?
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Friday, February 4th, 2011 AT 11:13 PM
Tiny
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It did, code 320, but I stand corrected on the description. 320 refers to the crankshaft position sensor, not the camshaft position sensor. The cam sensor gives more trouble. I never replaced a crank sensor on a Stratus so I don't know how it mounts. If the mounting hole is slotted, (elongated), there will likely be a paper spacer glued to the end to set the critical air gap. Many aftermarket sensors have a thin plastic rib molded onto the end to set that gap. If you reinstall a used crank sensor, cut off any remaining rib if it has one, and use a new paper spacer.

If there is no way to adjust how far the sensor goes in, you don't have to worry about any spacer.

Caradiodoc
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Friday, February 4th, 2011 AT 11:53 PM
Tiny
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Thanks i'll give it a shot any other ideas incase it doesn't work?
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Monday, February 7th, 2011 AT 4:49 AM
Tiny
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If you have a code for a sensor and a new one doesn't solve the problem, you'll have to measure the voltages on its wires when the problem is acting up. When the engine stalls, do not turn the ignition switch off and back on. Leave it on, pop the hood, and measure the voltages on the three wires. One must have 5.0 volts and the ground must have around 0.2 volts. If there's no 5.0 volts, check if it's present at the camshaft position sensor. If it is, there's a break in the feed wire to the crank sensor. If it's missing at both sensors, the Engine Computer shut that power supply down to protect it. Try a new cam sensor or look for a place where that wire is rubbed through and grounding out. When the short is gone, turning the ignition switch off and back on will reset the 5.0 volt power supply.

If you find 5.0 volts on all three wires, the ground wire is open. Measuring the voltages on the cam sensor again will tell you which part of the wiring the break is in.

Caradiodoc
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Monday, February 7th, 2011 AT 8:11 PM

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