1992 Buick Century Special Engine Coolant Sensor Problems Shows Check Light Fou

Its going to take a metric socket to unscrew it as far as the connector which engine do you have the 2.5L or the 3.3L engine.

Looks like ethier engine the connector you just move the tab over a little and unplug the connector.

I have the 3.3L engine Century special 4dr automatic also where is the fuse box I want to go thru all the fuses also

There is no fuse that effects that circuit or would set that code if it was blown.Do you have a multimeter?You can test the resistance of the sensor if you know the coolant temp or if the engine is cold and you know outside temp where your car is.

No I don't have a multimeter tomorrow I will take a pic of sensor and engine area and send it to you.Top of engine says 3300

I posted the coolant sensor chart just incase you decide to test it.So where you confused where the sensor is?It has a black wire and a yellow wire going to it.

ya I see that but the yellow is so dirty it looks brown lol!When I get the part I will go to advance and bring em to the car to make sure I got the right part

Thats a good idea keep me posted.

thanks for your time and help.If I could afford it I would let a mechanic do it all but I am retired on limited income even work pt to get by at 66 yrs.I searched how to jump the terminals to read the codes.I used 2 aligator clips and a wire did that this am.It worked fine ttyl thanks again.I saved the chart to file

Your welcome thats what were here for keep me posted on what you find.

today I tried to get top cap off but it wouldn't budge.Took a picture where sensor is located

So does the connector have a tab to bend to the side to remove the connector?If not try gently squezing the connector to remove it.Let me know what you find.

It looks like a slot in the center on far end.I tried pulling it up but it wouldn't move tomorrow I will try squezing it to see if it comes off that way

If there is a tab it has to be moved to the side a little and you pull it off.

ok I will try that also will let you know how I make out thanks

Your welcome keep me posted.

If I get the top cap off where the 2 wires are and want to replace the cap where can I find where the wires connect to at the other end.I also notice by looking at a parts diagram on Advance auto the top cap and sensor plug in together as male and female connectors I was told possibly the plug may be the problem so I may replace both and be done with it.Both would be about 50$

Does your sensor look like the one i posted a pic of?If so there is a plastic tab that needs to by pushed over while unpluging it.

Yes saturntech I got the cap off today no problemthere was a tasb on back I pulled it up and it came right off I unplugged it from the sensor saw how it goes and put it back on I also followed the 2 wires to a place in back of altinator they went inside a protected plastic tube with a slit in it.I suspect I have to spread the slit and pull out the wire gently then see a connector attached that will pull off to get the wire freed then replace it all am I correct? I went to autoparts and they don't have either in stock so am ordering them from the net which is better then I get 15% off probrably will get them sat.Looks like a pretty simple fix as long as the sensor itself unscrews easy.Is the sensor torqued much?Also should I put teflon on the threads of new sensor?or use thread seal.

Are you talking about replacing the connector for the coolant temp sensor?If so then that connector doesnt plug to replace it.You would cut the old one out and wire the new one in with some crimp and melt to seal butt connectors.As far as the sensor itself there not that tight so dont go crazy when you replaced the new one.Most of the time the new sensor come with sealer on them.If they dont you could put some teflon tape on it.

I got the sensor this am from Advance.I checked it and found it is identical.I put teflon tape on the threads and you were right the old one came out with no problem.The old on was corroded some with green around it also the plastic guard that is supposed to be attached to it actually fell of the unit I screwed the new one in it took a 3/4 regular socket.Plugged in the cap and started it up.When I took it out had some antifreeze come out but it stopped quick and was able to screw the new one in with no problem.I still got a check engine light on the engine seems to idle fine should I disconnect battery wait a few and reconnect it to see if light stays out?If so what terminal to disconnect? Or does it matter at all.First going to take it for a ride to see if speedometer working and cruise control.Also should I do another trouble check to see if I still get a 14 trouble.I will be waiting for your opinion thanks.

If the terminals are green instead of silver then you will have to replace the connector or clean the terminals.I posted how to clear the codes so you can see if the code comes back.

ok saturntech9 that sensor is replaced but still get the light on I talked with another tech and now we are thinking I need to do the sensor for the cooling temp sending unit where should I look for that one.When I ran the diagnostics with the jumper the 2nd time after installing sensor I ran it all the way back to 12 results are 12,14,15,27,28,31,42,46 then back to 12

Are you talking about the coolant temp sending unit for the Gauge?Because as far as i know that doesnt have anything to do with code 14.

yes for the gage hmm but the gage one could that have anything to do with speedometer and transmission and cruise control?Because that is 15 and had that one come up on the codes which says 15 is coolant sensor circuit low or open.Im thinking 14 is one sensor and 15 being the other.Also I have been told they are both close together on the intake manifold

14 and 15 are both for the coolant temp sensor 14 is coolant temp sensor signal voltage low.

Code 15 is for coolant temp sensor signal voltage high.The best way to check it out is with a scan tool that read live data to see what the voltage reads.Do you have a multimeter?If so i can tell you how to check the circuit.Also those codes have nothing to do with the speedo or cruise do you have a issue with those?

I don't have a multimeter Yes have issues with speedometer , cruisecontrol, and security alarm. sometimes the tranny kicks down a speed after engine gets warmed up when it does that the speedometer will work.When the speedometer works the cruse control works and sometimes if I am lucky the engine trouble light will go out.One day I had everything going ok even went 6 miles to home with no problems.Parked it went back out to go to work 7 hrs later started it and there right away engine lite back on and speedometer not working.Security alarm is need to turn left signal on to start car if signal is not on then when you turn key on you get the horn blasting.If the speedometer, and cruse control arent working the car will start without the signal light the horn works with any instance no prob there.

If you can get a multimeter i can tell you how to check the wires to the connector.As far as the other issuses go i would get the coolant temp code out first and go from there.

I was looking for the egr.It is different than what shows in haynes book I found a canister on front side of engine near the speed control also followed line from canister to back of engine and found a 7/32 vacuum hose connected to a metal piece and hose was cracked.The hose continued on to a junction with 2 other hoses on the back firewall.I took a piece of electrical tape and wrapped it around the cracked rubber hose started car then my engine stopped running fast and was running normal.I shut the engine off and restarted it running normal and engine light was out.Shut engine off then restarted and light stayed off.But the next time it came back on.I am going to replace the hose by the end of the week should I disconnect battery to try to reset computer after installing hose

found a vac hose leak near a canister on front of eng.Taped it and engine started ideling right and engine light went off twice after starting and restarting car Thinking that canister would be EGR

Sounds like the charcoal canister to me thats what catches all your raw fuel vapors.sounds like you fixed a vacuum leak and that will cause a high or rough idle.

not fixed yet getting vac hose thursday right now it is idling too low need to keep foot on gas when I stop or it will stall on me.

Let me know how it runs with new vacuum lines.

I replaced vacuum line past canister and it goes to a 3 way plastic port on top of firewall.It is about a 2'piece of straight hose 7/32 dia.After I replaced it I started the car and the engine light came on the engine was idiling a little high I left it alone and let the car warm up ( been sitting all nite)a few min. later the ideling went down to normal engine light stayed on .I took it for a ride and the speedometer worked great.I went 6 miles to town and stopped at store and shut it off.When I restarted it the engine light didn't come on at all , the car idled nicely and speedometer also worked.No problem at all all the way home (6 miles)then let it set until 9pm and went to work when I started it the light came on and the speedometer didn't work again.On the way to work the speedometer worked a little then quit again but engine light stayed on.Then the speedometer worked again all the rest of way to work.I parked the car at work shut engine off and restarted it this time light stayed off.I went to work then coming home the light was back on and speedometer didn't work again.Someone told me that I was supposed to drive it 50 miles when all was working to see if it had any problem light coming back on , that the computer has to readjust itself is this so?

No once the repairs are done and you clear the codes the light should come back on and everything should work What codes do you have now?

there was a ferril cat roaming around here for a while I noticed it couldn't walk normal all it could do to get around is crawl on its side.I am wondering if it is responsible for chewing on my under the hood wires and got juiced.Is there enough voltage to do this when the car is not running?I found one wire going to the back center fuel injector that the plastic was missing from probrably an inch long area since then I coated the rest of wire with liquid electrical tape.

Battery voltage no it could burn his mouth good but cause the other things no.So hows the car running?How was your christmas?

Christmas was fine I am going to have a repairman check on his computer to narrow down what is cause of light staying on .He has all the equipment to check ODB1.I suspect it has to do with tranny due to sometimes when driving I feel the tranny changing into a different gear then speedometer will work for a while then it will shift gear again and speedometer stops again.Also found out when the speedometer works and if I shut off the car when I restart the car the engine light doesn't come on until of course the tranny decides to change gear again.How I can tell the tranny changed gear is I get a little drag or jolt for a cpl of seconds.

So what codes do you have now?You said the light is coming on.