I have a Toyota Camry 1988 and it was driving.

If by 'bouncy' you mean the engine wants to stall - it is probably an electronic sensor or some such. You really might want to take it to Toyota; who for a very reasonable fee - will tell you what is wrong. However, the flow chart for Engine Sympton - often stalls - is as follows for the 88 Camry:

1. Check for Diagnostic codes
2. Check for vacuum leaks in Air Intake (Oil filler cap; dipstick; hose connections; pcv hoses; EGR (is the recirculation valve stuck open)
3. Fuel supply to injectors. Make sure you have correct fuel pressure. Hoses deformed? Fuel Filter Ok; Fuel pump; Fuel pressure regulator
4. Check Air Filter Element (Clean?)
5. Check Idle speed (should be 700+-(50) Check ISC system; wiring connections; ISC valve; check ECU (computer) by substitution
6. Check ignition timing (10 degrees btc) with T & E1 shorted
7. Check spark plugs; compression and (valve clearance if necessary.)
8. Check Cold Start Injector; and cold start injector time switch
9. Recheck Fuel Pressure (Pump, Filter, Regulator)
10. Check Injectors and condition
11. Check EFI Electronic Circuit using VOM. Check wiring connections; Power to ECU (fusible links, fuses, EFI main relay); Air Flow Meter; Water Temp sensor (the small sensor (on top) on the water outlet to right side of engine with a bunch of sensors on it. Check Air temp sensor (located inside MASS AirFlow unit); Check Injection Signal Circuit (injector wiring & ECU)

The above were the system checks for an 88 Camry which often stalls. From your description - it seems the engine wants to stall at traffic lights. If the engine does not wish to stall out when the vehicle is in Park or Neutral - than I suppose it could have something to do with the transmission as a friend suggested to you. But stalling out - is not generally related to the transmission.

Also - if you sign up with like "alldata" for a month or one year - which is very reasonable for personal vehicle (around $20 a year) - the data is the same as Toyota's; and this would tell you how and where the previous mentioned tests are performed.

However, some of those tests can be difficult and still require specialized equipment. (Such as fuel pressure; checking the fuel pump for proper operation.) But those above steps came directly from the shop service manual for an 88 Camry. Alldata can tell you where and how to perform them.

If you are not very handy with a VOM, etc; in Seattle anyway - it is just $136 total including tax and shop fees - for Toyota dealership to do diagnostics - and tell you why and how the problem exists. A lot of various electronic sensors (and the 88 Camry does not 'code' very well; since it was OBD1 type) can get very involved; and seriously affect how the vehicle runs and operates.

Since you did mention the transmission; as I previously mentioned; if the vehicle runs ok in park - than it could be that I suppose. Possibly low transmission fluid from a leak. Assuming you have automatic transmission - the torque converter does not proper fluid level. To generate the proper coupling between the tranny and the engine. If you are going to have any hope of fixing this yourself - at a minimum you should purchase a Hanes or Chiltons manual. Hope this all helps.

Typo Correction:

Assuming you have automatic transmission - the torque converter does need proper fluid level. To generate the correct coupling between the tranny and the engine. If you are going to have any hope of fixing this yourself - at a minimum you should purchase a Hanes or Chiltons manual. Hope this all helps.

Addition: the correct fluid level is something which you can easily check yourself. The vehicle MUST be at normal operating temperature (158 - 176 degrees F)

Must be on a level surface; set the parking brake.

With the engine idling; shift the selector into each gear from P range to L range and then return to P range.

With the engine idling; pull out the transmission dipstick and completely wipe it clean.

Push back the dipstick FULLY into the tube.

Pull it back out and check that the fluid level is in the HOT range. If the level is at the low side of either range - add fluid.

Fluid type is ATF DEXRON II. CAUTION: Do NOT overfill.

The above iis something that you can easily do; and is direct from the Factory Service manual for an 88 Camry.

BTW: For troubleshooting an automatic transmission; the flow chart has NOTHING about the vehicle being bouncy or not idling correctly at a stop light. The absolute closest to this description for deciphering various transmission difficulties is the following:

Problem: Slips on 1-2, 2-3 or 3-OD upshift, or slips or shudders on acceleration.

I don't think it is your transmission. However, the above mentioned problem is caused by the following possibilities per the shop manual:

1. Control cable out of adjustment.
2. Throttle cable out of adjustment.
3. Valve body faulty.
4. Solenoid valve faulty.
5. Transmission faulty.

(I would think 3 - 5 are all essentially transmission faulty - but hey - I didn't write the steps.)

So now, with all of this info - what are you going to do. Take it to a shop and pay for diagnostics; sign up with alldata; etc. Just wondering what you think your next action will be.