Mechanics

WONT FIRE

1986 Ford F-150 • 6 cylinder 4WD Automatic •

I replaced my distributor and rotor, the engine is at tdc and the rotor is inline with the no.1 plug but I cant even get the engine to sound like it wants to kick over. Any advice?
Avatar
Sniper198105
March 6, 2011.




ENGINE IS TURNING OVER---WAS RUNNING PRIOR TO REMOVING THE DISTRIBUTOR THIS ISSUE? WHY DID WE CHANGE THE DISTRIBUTOR? OR DID YOU JUST REPLACE THE CAP, NOT THE DISTRIBUTOR? KINDA WANT TO KNOW WHERE I'MMA STARTING. HOW DO YOU KNOW FOR SURE YOU ARE AT TDC? HOW DID YOU ARRIVE HERE?---I CAN HELP YOU PUT THE DISTRIBUTOR IN CORRECTLY. NEED THE BACKGROUND 1ST.--THE MEDIC
AD


Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
Mar 6, 2011.
The engine turns over but wont fire. A mechanic told me while it was running two days ago that the distributor needs changed but he wanted 400 dollars. I went and bought one, forgot to make my marks with a sharpie and kicked it over before the new distributor was fully engaged with the teeth. Ive got new dist, cap, and rotor.I lined the timing marks on the fly wheel to tdc but im not exactly sure if ive got the dist. Teeth in the right spot.I am alighning the rotor with the no.1 plug on the cap.-Matthew


Tiny
Sniper198105
Mar 6, 2011.
Put the engine no.1 piston on compression stroke/TDC and align the crank to TDC/0degs -then set the rotor position to the no.1 cap


Rasmataz
Mar 6, 2011.
ROGER, SAW YOUR NAME, US ARMY AIRBORNE RANGER/ SNIPER TEAM 1982-1987...OK, THIS AIN'T TOO HARD...IF YOU FULLY UNDERSTAND WHAT WE ARE-A-DOIN'. SO AT ANY POINT IN THIS, YOU DO NOT UNDERSTAND, TELL ME BEFORE YOU JUST "GO FOR IT"--LIKE I SAID FAIRLY EZ, EZer, HAD WE NOT SNATCHED OUT MR. DISTRIBUTOR! $400 !!!!TO INSTALL A $50 DISTRIBUTOR???? YOU'LL JUST OWE ME LUNCH!!!!....I ANSWER THE JEEP CJs A LOT, I WILL GO OVER TO ONE I JUST HELPED RECENTLY, AND COPY AND PASTE SOME OF MY ANSWER IN--THIS WORKS FOR ANY DISTRIBUTORI AM ASSUMING YOUR ROTOR BUTTON ROTATES CLOCKWISE?, LET ME KNOW OTHERWISE, I DO NOT KNOW YOUR ENGINE!!!I DO DOUBLE SPACE AND MAKE THINGS READABLE--RECENTLY THIS SITE JUST CRAMS IT ALL TOGETHER, NO MATTER HOW I PRESENT IT!!!!PASTINGNo Problem 2 people (UNLESS YOU HAVE A REMOTE STARTER SWITCH, REALLY A ITEM YOU NEED FOR STUFF LIKE THIS!)---will not take long--Evil Female in you house will do! Disconnect the COIL so it CANNOT START Take out #1 Spark plug WATCH OUT FOR THE FAN!!! Stick your Finger/ Thumb in the Empty Hole TIGHTLY! Evil Woman "BUMPS" the Motor This is a 4 cycle engine--the crank rotates 2 times (piston up 2 times)for every one time it makes a Cycle ONE IS EXHAUST STROKE (pushing toward the top) The other is COMPRESSION STROKE--THIS IS THE ONE WE WANT!!!!!!! This is the only UPWARD STROKE that both valves are closed and air/ fuel pressure builds up--when it reaches the top, this is TOP DEAD CENTER (TDC) So here's the deal--when she bumps it and YOU GET A "SPIT OF AIR" by your thumb----STOP STOP STOP IMMEDIATELY-OR YOU WILL BUMP IT TOO FAR!!!!!! (you may want to practice a time or two, we want the BEGINNING OF THE SPIT--NOT AFTER YOU PASS IT!) You are headed up, on COMPRESSION!!!---Beginning of the spit Now you must turn the engine BY HAND, in the SAME DIRECTION it normally turns---using a socket on the HARMONIC BALANCER NUT and a Ratchet/ pull bar/ pull handle TURN IT SLOWLY until your TIMING MARKS LINE UP ON "ZERO" THIS IS TDC!!!!! I HAVE TO EAT NOW, I WILL CONTINUE ALL THE WAY THRU INSTALLING THE DISTRIBUTOR WHEN I RETURN!!!--THIS WILL GIVE YOU SOMETHING FOR A LITTLE WHILE THIS IS MY 6 CYLINDER (258) ON 8 DEGREES BEFORE TDC (BTDC) AND THE NEXT PIC IS TDC (ZERO) YOURS IS SLIGHTLY DIFFERENT!!! Remember this happens twice--only once for the compression stroke CONFUSED YET????--I CAN RE-EXPLAIN.....PASTING IN MORE!!!!OK, I'M GONNA MAKE THIS EZ "PART 2" IS WHERE YOU ARE AT THESE ARE THE ONLY THINGS YOU MUST REMEMBER: WHERE IS YOUR #1 CYLINDER? WHICH SIDE OF THE ENGINE (I WILL MAKE YOU HUNT 1ST, THEN I WILL VERIFY OR SCOLD YOU!) YOUR ENGINE IS AT "TDC" DO NOT MOVE IT!!! YOUR "PREFERRED # 1 WIRE LOCATION" MAY BE STAMPED ON YOUR DISTRIBUTOR CAP SO TRY TO HAVE THE BUTTON POINTED AT IT WHEN FULLY SEATED (OTHERWISE PICK IT UP AND ROTATE IT A NOTCH OR SO SO IT WILL POINT THERE INSURE YOU HAVE ENOUGH TRAVEL EITHER WAY OF #1 WITH THE DISTRIBUTOR BODY (THIS IS HOW WE TIME IT LATER, SO IT MUST HAVE SOME TRAVEL WITHOUT HITTING SOMETHING! OR WE MAY HAVE TO PICK THE DISTRIBUTOR BACK UP AND MOVE IT A TOOTH) LAST THING--YOU MAY HAVE TO USE A BIG SCREWDRIVER IN THE HOLE THE DISTRIBUTOR CAME OUT OF......THE OIL PUMP IS DOWN AT THE BOTTOM IN THE CENTER...YOU WILL HAVE TO "TWEAK" IT AROUND...IN ORDER FOR THE DISTRIBUTOR TO DROP IN FULLY--ITS SORTA A TRICK TO GET IT RIGHT, TILL YOU DO IT A FEW TIMES ANYTHING YOU DO NOT UNDERSTAND----ASK ME!!!!!!! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5a2X9mSSlQY http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FHX1yXVyIMg&feature=related YOU MIGHT EVEN LOOK AT MORE OF THESE, THIS ONE IS A CHEVY!.....REMEMBER WHEREVER YOU PUT #1 WIRE ON THE CAP, THE ROTOR BUTTON SHOULD BE LOOKING AT IT, AND YOUR FIRING ORDER WILL START AT THAT POINT (MINE IS 1-5-3-6-2-4 IN A CLOCKWISE MOTION)

WE CANNOT LINK HERE ANYMORE EITHER-SO IF YOU WANNA SEE THIS, COPY AND PASTE ONTO A NEW TAB. AFTER THIS THING IS IN, IT MUST BE PROPERLY TIMED----I MAY CAN HELP YOU WITH THIS TOO! DO YOU HAVE TUNE-UP GAUGES ETC? HOW IS IT GOING SO FAR? DO YOU HAVE A MANUAL FOR YOUR RIG?

MY PICS--258 JEEP ENGINE-SIMILAR TO YOU

1) TURNING MY ENGINE CLOCKWISE BY HAND AS VIEWED FROM THE FRONT 2) MY TIMING MARK ON ZERO, THIS IS TDC, IF I'M AT THE TOP OF THE COMPRESSION STROKE (BLACK LINE IS MY TIMING MARK) 3) A KIT THAT "HARBOR FREIGHT" HAS FOR LESS THAN $40, ALL YOU NEED FOR TUNE UPS, COMPACT AND ALL IN ONE BOX, A NEAT KIT!"MR. JEEP" AND "WILLY"---BOTH MOSTLY TOTALLY REBUILT, ALL BY MYSELF!........IF YOU DO NOT UNDERSTAND ASK...I'M HERE TO HELP!---THE MEDIC


Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
Mar 6, 2011.
HEY RAS! I WAS A CHOWIN' DOWN WHEN YOU POPPED IN! DOIN' OK? THE MEDIC


Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
Mar 6, 2011.
Same here buddy-you hang in there-you're doing good helping people in need-Raz R/O


Rasmataz
Mar 6, 2011.
Ok I got it running, but now the problem is i'll get a mile down the road and the whole engine will shut down, I still have power to the lights and such but it wont start again unless I move the distributor an 1/8 of an inch{which sounds like crap] then i'll set it back to the origanal potition and drive a mile and it'll cut out again. Just the engine nothing else.


Tiny
Sniper198105
Mar 7, 2011.
I'll get you some pictures at lunch or COB today so u can see exactly what im working with, I dont have a timing light or anything. The mechanic I went to told me that if I got it in and brought it back he would time it for free.


Tiny
Sniper198105
Mar 7, 2011.
Roger, sorta see where you are at, THIS AIN'T McGYVER, WHERE YOU RIG UP SOMETHING WITH THE "OLD INSTAMATIC CAMERA FLASHBULB" AND A LAMP CORD. WITHOUT SOME SORT OF STANDARD (CALIBRATING TOOL(S) YOU CAN DO NOTHING EXACTLY CORRECT, YOU MIGHT OUT-RUN THE "LAVA FLOW" BY 1 MILE. OTHER THAN THAT, THIS IS LIKE GOING ON A HOT, EXCITING, ROMANTIC "PARKING ADVENTURE" WITH "VANESSA". AND HER DAD!--THE MEDIC


Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
Mar 7, 2011.
Ok it wont fire anymore so I started from square one here are some pics itll backfire but wont start


Tiny
Sniper198105
Mar 22, 2011.

AD