1985 Jeep Scrambler/CJ8 Repair Question
Mileage: No information provided.
1985 Jeep scrambler won't fire
Answer
This had me chasing my tail for 2 days!
Take your module (old and new) to Autozone or Advance Auto....they will test it for FREE!!!
Test it 5-8 times to warm it up...if it fails the later testing replace it........Then test the new one before you leave!!!! (as I did not!)
I'm here for you buddy, I will continue to assist you, for as long as it takes!
I answer the CJ 5 & 7 Forums frequently---you will see the extent I will go to assist!
Try that 1st---and come back with more info if you have it---We will take it from there!
Want this info: What type coil did you get--Part # Store?
The Medic
Explain
I CAN GET YOU GOING!
The Medic
I got all of my parts from Autozone, The ignition module is Duralast F102 and the coil is also Duralast part # c832. I have also tested the new and old module to see if they are any good. Thanks for the help.
The starting fluid does nothing, it will not spit or sputter. Gas in the carb does nothing. I have inconsistent spark. The timing checks out good.
I just checked behind you!
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/1985-Jeep-Scrambler/Ignition-Coil/_/N-ijgs6Z9n80r?filterByKeyWord=coil&fromString=search
I wanted to BE ABSOLUTELY SURE---YOU HAVE THE COIL--"For Use With External Resistor"
Trying to Help, not Pizz you off!
PLEASE EXPLAIN WHAT---"THE TIMING CHECKS OUT GOOD" MEANS EXACTLY?
THIS MAY BE THE ISSUE, AND I CAN HELP YOU THRU IT, IF YOU WILL BE MY EYES AND HANDS!......I CRAVE INFO!
THE MEDIC
Yes, i believe it is the same coil. I appreciate the help. Crank is on top dead center, #1 cylinder piston comes to top, roder is directed to #1 spark plug wire. Also i put new ground to engine block to frame, engine block to firewall, and engine block to battery, and continuity tested all wires in harness from ignition switch to the alternator.
TOP DEAD CENTER ON THE COMPRESSION STROKE?
OR ITS JUST AT THE TOP?.......WITH NO IDEA ON WHY?
HOW DID YOU FIND THE COMPRESSION STROKE?....OR DID YOU?
THIS IS A 4 CYCLE ENGINE, THE PISTON MOVES UP AND DOWN TWICE FOR EACH "CYCLE"
DO YOU WANT ME TO TAKE YOU THRU THOSE MOTIONS..........GETTING ON COMPRESSION STROKE....THEN SETTING THE HARMONIC BALANCER TO "ACTUAL TDC" ON THE SCALE THEN.......INSTALLING THE DISTRIBUTOR?
I DO NOT MIND HELPING AT ALL--THIS IS FUN FOR ME!
THE MEDIC
The harmonic balancer is on top dead center. The compression stroke on #1 cylinder blows out of cylinder. the roder is pointing in direction of #1 plug wire on distributor cap
2ND TIME TO SEND THIS
DID YOU HAVE YOUR FINGER OR THUMB IN #1 PLUG HOLE WHEN IT "SPIT" (CONFIRMING COMPRESSION BUILDING) THEN ASAP!!!! LET GO OF THE KEY WHEN "SPIT" 1ST HEARD---THEN ROTATE THE ENGINE WITH A SOCKET OR WRENCH--CLOCKWISE (STANDING IN FRONT OF THE ENGINE) TILL YOUR MARK LINES UP ON ZERO (THIS WOULD BE "REAL TDC") AS IN MY PIC.
ALSO DID YOU ROTATE YOUR OIL PUMP UNTIL THE DISTRIBUTOR SAT "ALL THE WAY DOWN" AND YOUR ROTOR BUTTON WAS POINTING AT #1 "TOWER"
IT REALLY DOESN'T MATTER WHICH "TOWER" IT POINTS TO, AS LONG AS YOU PLACE YOUR WIRES IN FIRING ORDER--CLOCKWISE.......LOOKING DOWN ON THE DISTRIBUTOR
PIZZING YOU OFF?----OR GOING OVER THIS, INSURING EVERYTHING IS RIGHT AIDING YOU AT ALL?
YOUR TURN......I'VE GOT MORE POSSIBILITIES....JUST DON'T WANT TO WRITE A WHOLE BOOK, IF CHAPTER 1 FIXES YOU!
Yes I have done all of these things exactly have you have described, so this makes me believe the timing is correct. No your not pizzin me off, i appreciate the assistance.