Inconsistent curb idle and low power at RPMs

Tiny
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WHY DON'T YOU FIND A "SACRIFICIAL" SHORT 1/2 DRIVE SOCKET (EVEN GRIND IT SHORTER) AND HAVE THE WELDING SHOP WELD IT ONTO YOUR HOLDER----THE WELDING SHOP MIGHT EVEN HAVE A TRASHED OUT SOCKET IN THEIR INVENTORY

INSURE THE "SQUARE" IS ORIENTED THE RIGHT WAY

MIGHT EVEN HAVE 'EM "BEEF UP" THE BACK SIDE TOO!

PROBABLY JUST A FEW BUCKS--I'D DO IT FOR FREE IF YOU WERE CLOSE BY!

THE MEDIC
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Wednesday, August 1st, 2012 AT 2:53 AM
Tiny
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The 1/2'' to 3/4'' drive works great. That 3/4'' square is huge. It'll take a lot to strip through it.

Good news! I've got the correct shims (to the best of my knowledge). Pictures bellow show the final gear marks, dead center. Or. Close enough. And a pic of the pile of used crush sleeves it took to get me there. As soon as my new yoke and crush sleeve comes in I'll be ready to tighten things down for the last time. Thank goodness. I can see the light at the end of the tunnel.

Last pic is of the liquid check valve's brand new barbed hose fitting. Your method worked like a charm.
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Thursday, August 2nd, 2012 AT 10:57 PM
Tiny
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SO. YOU'LL BE ABLE TO TAKE ME FOR A NICE QUIET RIDE SOON?

WEAR PATTERN IS PERFECT!

FILLER UP WITH 85W-90 OR 80W-90 AFTER YOU GET IT BACK ON

IS THERE ANYTHING YOU HAVE ASKED THAT I FAILED TO ANSWER?

YOU HAVE SAVED YOURSELF A BUNDLE. NOT TO MENTION THE TASK HAS BEEN DONE CORRECTLY AND TO PERFECTION, YOU WILL SELDOM FIND SOMEONE WHO WILL TAKE THE TIME TO DO IT BY THE BOOK, AND MAKE IT OPERATE AND LAST, AS IT SHOULD

KEEP ASKING. THE CJ FORUMS ARE SLOWING DOWN AGAIN

THE MEDIC
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Thursday, August 2nd, 2012 AT 11:41 PM
Tiny
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Question. I was going to fill up the transfer case with fresh oil, but as I was tightening the drain plug, it just kept going and going. There was a very small pop at one point (maybe 15 ft-lbs of torque on the plug at the time), and some old RTV gasket sealer came out of the threads, but that was it. Eventually when it started to become easier to tighten, I didn't just keep turning and push it through. I pulled it out and there wasn't any damage to the threads. A little extra oil came leaking out when I pulled out the plug.

I tried putting it in gain, and it gets a little hard to tighten, but definitely doesn't make it up to 20 ft-lbs (which is the torque spec for the drain plug). Is this normal? Do I just put some RTV on the threads, and tighten her up? Or is there a piece of metal potentially clinking around inside of my t-case? And yes, I was using a torque wrench.
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Saturday, August 4th, 2012 AT 10:06 PM
Tiny
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RVT IS FINE

WHAT ABOUT TRYING ANOTHER PLUG?

I'M NOT SURE WHAT STYLE YOU HAVE--YOU MIGHT HAVE A "FEMALE SQUARE" THAT YOUR RATCHET FITS IN, YOU MIGHT HAVE A FEMALE TORX, YOU MIGHT HAVE A "MALE SQUARE HEAD" THAT A WRENCH OR 8 POINT SOCKET FITS ONAND THERE MAY BE A MAGNET INCORPORATED INTO IT

I HAVE A MODEL 20 TRANSFER CASE AND A T-150 3 SPD TRANNY

MY TRANSFER CASE HAD THE "RATCHET SQUARE PLUGS" AND NO MAGNET---I REPLACED THE DRAIN AND THE FILL WITH 1/2" NPT (PIPE TAPERED THREAD)....TECHNICALLY "NATIONAL PIPE THREAD"----WITH HEX HEADED BRASS TAPERED PLUGS. THEY SEEM EZer TO REMOVE

THE TRANSMISSION DRAIN HAS A MAGNET MADE INTO THE PLUG, IT IS THE "MALE SQUARE HEAD", THE FILL IS THE SAME WITHOUT A MAGNET...I LEFT THEM BOTH ALONE...SEE 1ST PIC

YOU DON'T THINK YOU (LAST FELLER) HAS CRACKED YOUR CASE ACROSS THE HOLE FROM OVER TIGHTENING? CLEAN THE IMMEDIATE AREA WELL WITH A WIRE BRUSH, THEN RUB YOUR CRUDDY FINGER ALL AROUND THE HOLE AND SEE IF YOU EXPOSE A CRACK WITH THE CRUD

YOU CAN ALSO "TAP" THE HOLE AGAIN TO CLEAN IT UP----THIS IS USING A TAPERED TAP (NPT)---YOU MUST STOP WHEN IT GETS A LITTLE TOUGH TO TURN--IF YOU START CUTTING INTO THE THREADS, YOU BETTER STOP!......FAILURE TO STOP WILL RESULT IN A STRAIGHT THREADED HOLE IN WHICH A BOLT WILL GO THRU, A PLUG WOULD BE USELESS!!!

SEE MY ANSWER ON January 09, 2012 AT THIS POST (ROUGHLY NEAR THE END)

http://www.2carpros.com/questions/1992-ford-crown-victoria-aod-transmission-time-shift-2nd-gear-roughly-30mph-locks

IF YOU ARE CONCERNED ABOUT THE INSIDE OF THE CASE----BY ALL MEANS REMOVE THE BOTTOM COVER AND LOOK (I WISH I HAD!) YOU CAN CUT A NEW GASKET OUT OF GASKET MATERIAL, AND USE THE MINIMAL AMOUNT OF RVT TO SEAL IT!!!!
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Sunday, August 5th, 2012 AT 3:31 AM
Tiny
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Good grief! After reading your t-case horror story, I'm definitely just going to remove the bottom cover and take a look just to be sure. The diff cover had a TON of RTV all up inside the edges. Hopefully there isn't gobs of it in the t-case as well.

Another question. How important is it to realign your drive shaft at it's original point relative to the rear differential? I may have mucked up my markings when I was pushing out the u-joint yesterday.
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Sunday, August 5th, 2012 AT 1:39 PM
Tiny
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I DO DO TRY TO REALIGN MY STUFF LIKE IT WAS

BUT WHO KNOWS WHAT HAPPENED BEFORE ME?

I'VE BEEN AROUND MANY THAT DID NOT TRY THIS PRACTICE.I'VE NOT SEEN ANY VIBRATION ISSUES ON THEIRS.

MAYBE IT JUST REALLY MATTERS A LOT WITH A LONG DRIVE SHAFT ON OTHER RIGS

WHAT DO DO YOU DO WHEN YOU INSTALL A BRAND NEW ONE?

REMEMBER I DON'T DRIVE TRAINS (NOT AN ENGINEER)!

DRIVE ON SOLDIER. CROSS THAT BRIDGE IF NEED-BE!

THE MEDIC
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Sunday, August 5th, 2012 AT 2:32 PM
Tiny
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I really can't think of why it would be important to keep things aligned. Your angle between the diff and the t-case is important, but rotating a drive shaft or yoke won't change that. Oh well. Hopefully it's not a big deal.

Had a busy day today! Dropped the gas tank, checked for leaks, and put it back in. Putting that sucker back in was quite a challenge. Good news - no leaks other than that liquid check valve. Bad news - there was no reason to drop the tank. The hoses all looked great except for the ones going to the check valve and roll over valve. Either way, I'll take the peace of mind.

Removed the bottom cover to the t-case. No problems, looked clean. Replaced the gasket and bolted it back in. Put a little bit of RTV in. Going to let that harden up before I put more oil again. Made more work for myself a second time, but again, those extra hours of work are worth the peace of mind. Pic is halfway through the gas tank overhaul. Gas tank is on right side of jeep. Rough work.
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Monday, August 6th, 2012 AT 12:34 AM
Tiny
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MAY BE I'M TOO LATE

THE TANK NORMALLY RUSTS OUT (MEGA PIN HOLES) UNDER THE PLASTIC COVERS WHERE SAND AND DIRT GETS TRAPPED UNDER IT, THEN IT GETS WET AND STAYS THAT WAY A WHILE

ON OTHER JEEPS I'VE HAD AND OTHERS I'VE HELPED ON, WE SPRAYED/BRUSHED THE TANK WITH RUST RESTORER/TRANSFORMER STUFF AND THEN COATED THEM WITH UNDERCOATING

I USED TO DRIVE 70 MILES A DAY BACK AND FORTH TO WORK, THEN "MY OWN DRIVING", I GOT TIRED OF FILLING UP EVERY DAY WITH THE 15 GALLON TANK. I OPTED TO GET THE 21 GALLON POLYETHYLENE (TOPPED OFF, IT REALLY HOLDS 22 GALLONS!)

I REALLY LIKE IT---IMPROVED RANGE IS NICE!

WHEN I WAS IN THE ARMY, I ALWAYS HAD TO MAKE A FUEL STOP SOMEWHERE BETWEEN SAVANNAH, GA (HUNTER ARMY AIRFIELD) AND MY HOMETOWN NEAR GREENVILLE, SC. IT ALWAYS MADE ME FEEL LIKE I WAS WASTING TIME WHILE TRYING TO GET HOME ON FURLOUGH, WHEN IT TOOK ME AN ADDITIONAL 30 MINUTES TO GET OFF THE INTERSTATE AND FIND A GAS STATION!

LAST YEAR I MADE THE SAME TRIP (1987 WAS THE LAST TIME), TO GO SEE A RANGER BUDDY......FELT SO GOOD TO ARRIVE IN SAVANNAH, WITH FUEL TO SPARE, WITH NO STOPS ALONG THE WAY.

I'M NOT A HERMIT, I DO TRAVEL IN MY JEEP UP THIS WAY, IT'S JUST THAT THIS TRIP REALLY HIT HOME, WITH THE OVER-SIZED TANK

THE ONLY DRAWBACK I SEE WITH THE BIG TANK, IS THAT IT RIDES LOWER THAN THE 15 GALLON TANK, EXTREME 4X4ing, ESPECIALLY IF IT'S ROCKY TERRAIN IS YOU MAY SMACK IT AROUND MORE, OR IT MIGHT DRAG OR HANG YOU UP. I HAD MY FEEL OF ALL OF THAT WITH MY 1ST THREE CJ 5s. I STILL WILL GO 4 WHEELING, USUALLY THRU NECESSITY OR EXPLORING, BUT THE "TRASHING OF MY JEEP" IS NO LONGER PART OF THE PROGRAM!

THE POLYETHYLENE TANK IS STILL PROTECTED WITH THE ORIGINAL TANK'S SKID PLATE, THE NEW TANK COMES WITH EXTENSIONS WHICH ALLOW IT TO HANG A FEW INCHES LOWER

NOW, WITH A "NORMAL" FULL FUEL LOAD, I HAVE 22 GALLONS IN THE TANK, AND 5 MORE GALLONS IN MY GERRY CAN ON THE BACK

THE ONLY PROBLEMS WITH DRIVE SHAFT VIBRATIONS I HAVE EXPERIENCED IS "BAD U-JOINTS" AND "SIDE TO SIDE PLAY" IN THE "WORN" TELESCOPIC PART OF THE SHAFT......DON'T WORRY--BE HAPPY!

I'M GLAD THAT 7 YEARS AGO I BOUGHT US A HOUSE....COMPLETE WITH A 2 CAR GARAGE......I FEEL FOR YOU, I DID IT YOUR WAY FOR 24 YEARS

YOU JUST DON'T KNOW HOW MANY TIMES I THOUGHT ABOUT ONE OF THESE AND A KEROSENE HEATER SUITABLE FOR THIS SIZE

http://www.superiorportablebuildings.com/fabric-covers/portable-garages-for-sale-one-car-shelter-king.htm

WHEN WILL IT BE TIME TO TAKE ME FOR A RIDE?

THE MEDIC
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Monday, August 6th, 2012 AT 3:39 AM
Tiny
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You don't know how bad I want a garage. Tried to find one for the next house I'm moving into, but can't afford the extra rent. At least this next house has a paved driveway. Won't be wallowing around in the dirt anymore.

Ugh. I'm waiting on one part to come in and the manufacturer is taking forever. Still hasn't shipped. One little yoke is all I need and I can be done. I want to drive my jeep so badly!
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Tuesday, August 7th, 2012 AT 2:33 PM
Tiny
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WHAT YOKE?

WHAT'S WRONG WITH THE OTHER ONE?

E.T.A. FOR THE ONE YOU ORDERED?

WHATCHA THINK ABOUT THE BIG TANK?

THE MEDIC
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Tuesday, August 7th, 2012 AT 6:08 PM
Tiny
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It's the yoke that I broke a bolt off inside of. The upgraded u-bolt yoke. Probably could have just fixed it easy, but I found a good deal. Turns out it shipped yesterday and should be in tomorrow. Hopefully will be driving her by Saturday.

Funny story, ran into a guy at Advance the other day who had sheared three of his bolt and strap bolts off in his yoke going to his pinion in his 95' wrangler. He was asking a rep there how to take off the pinion yoke, and the poor rep had no idea. He overheard me mention to someone I had a CJ, and he asked me about it. Got to explain to him about preload and all that jazz. I told him to look up how to change out a pinion oil seal if he wanted to remove his yoke. Kind of fun to yammer on about preoloading bearings while the advance autopart cashier's eyes glaze over (not that you'd ever do that though, medic).

I'm going to hold off on increasing tank size until I figure out what exactly I'm going to be doing with my jeep. Since I already have a reliable car, most likely my jeep will slowly become more of an offroad warrior as I upgrade and mod her. Knowing that, I'll probably wait on the larger tank. Now if I end up taking her on a lot of beach trips, I may reconsider. Now I know how to drop a tank, it will only take an afternoon to switch out a new one. Thanks for the advice though.
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Tuesday, August 7th, 2012 AT 6:24 PM
Tiny
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NOT ALL OF 'EM (VEHICLES) USE A CRUSH SLEEVE, SOME USE SPACERS AND SHIMS TO ACHIEVE PROPER PRE-LOAD---THEY SIMPLY GET SET TO A SPECIFIC TORQUE ONCE THE SHIMMING IS FIGGERED OUT.I DON'T KNOW ABOUT THE WRANGLERS, I'VE NEVER HAD A REAR END ISSUE WITH ONE, I TRY TO STICK WITH THE CJs!

YOU SHOULDA PUT THE OLE BOY ONTO "THE KNOWLEDGE BASE"----IT COVERS THE CJs, WRANGLERs, CHEROKEEs, AND TRUCKs.I THINK THAT WOULD'VE MADE A BIG IMPRESSION!

I REALLY LIKE TO IMPRESS THE '79 ON UP CJ OWNERS WITH EXPLAINING THE PROPER WAY TO USE THE HEAT CONTROLS AND THE --"I NEVER NOTICED THAT"-- VENT CONTROL WHICH PUMPS OUT MEGA AIR BETWEEN YOUR LEGS AND ONTO THE PASSENGERS LEGS. SO MANY HAVE OWNED ONE FOREVER AND THOUGHT THE 2ND K. NOB BELOW THE FAN, PULLED TO THE "1ST STOP" WAS "VENT" AND ONLY 1/4 OF THE WAY OUT (THOUGHT TO BE HALFWAY) WAS HEAT. NO WONDER THEY COMPLAIN ABOUT BEING COLD, THEY'VE BEEN CHEATING THEMSELVES OUTTA "FULL HEAT" FOREVER!

THE MEDIC
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Tuesday, August 7th, 2012 AT 6:49 PM
Tiny
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IT'S ALIVE!

Drover her today and absolutely no whining. I can finally coast! Had to wrestle through it though. Sheered another bolt off the OTHER yoke, but was able to drill it out and now everything is good to go. I've noticed a small fluctuation in power, but I'm hoping it goes away after a few miles. Maybe has something to do with removing the gas tank? Can't smell gas anymore either. Pic of restored axle below.

So good to finally be driving her again. Now onto cosmetic issues.
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Sunday, August 12th, 2012 AT 3:03 AM
Tiny
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WONDERFUL!

VACUUM PROBLEMS MAY BE HINDERING YOU. THEY'LL NEED TO BE SQUARED AWAY 1ST

. THEN LET'S GET YOUR CARB AND TIMING RIGHT

TELL ME WHERE YOU WANNA START

SEND ME SOME MORE (MANY) DIFFERENT ANGLES OF PICS UNDER THE HOOD AND WELL LIT---REMOVE THE BREATHER FOR THE PICS

I FEEL SURE YOU DID AN OUTSTANDING JOB ON THE DIFFERENTIAL

THE MEDIC
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Sunday, August 12th, 2012 AT 4:13 AM
Tiny
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Well I take that back. She appears to be driving fine. No power problems. I retimed the engine right after I put the axle back in. I didn't check the mixture, but I'll do that at some point. Quick question - what does engine ping sound like? The engine clicks a lot when I'm accelerating, but I'm pretty sure that's normal.

Just as a refresher, set the idle at 680 after she had warmed up. Killed the engine and plugged the vacuum advance. Loosened the nut by the distributor cap. Started the engine, and at 680 RPM set the advance to 8* +/- a degree or two. Sound right?
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Monday, August 13th, 2012 AT 2:09 PM
Tiny
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PINGING IS PRE-IGNITION....THE EXPLOSION OCCURS TOO EARLY, AND THE PISTON IS DRIVEN DOWN ON THE ROD WHILE STILL IN "COMPRESSION" OR EXACTLY AT THE TOP OF THE STROKE.....IT SHOULD HAPPEN "JUST" AS THE PISTON IS STARTING DOWN ON THE POWER STROKE......THE EXPLOSION THAT IS!!! THE ACTUAL "CALL" FOR THE SPARK HAPPENS EARLIER TO GIVE THE ELECTRICITY TIME ENOUGH TO FIRE THE PLUG AT "JUST" THE RIGHT TIME

DID YOU PLUG OFF YOUR VACUUM ADVANCE WHILE YOU WERE TIMING? WAS IDLE SPEED 680 RPMs WHILE TIMING?....DID YOU PUT THE VAC ADVANCE BACK ON WHEN YOU WERE FINISHED?

WHEN YOU WERE FINISHED WAS YOU IDLE SPEED SET BACK TO 680 RPM?

ARE YOU USING PORTED VACUUM OR MANIFOLD VACUUM TO THE VACUUM ADVANCE (FOR ME--MANIFOLD VACUUM [CONSTANT VACUUM] WORKS BEST ON MY SET UP) ONCE I HOOK MY VACUUM LINE BACK ON (IT IS ADVANCED ALL THE TIME) MY RPMs GO WAY UP AND I MUST IDLE IT BACK DOWN TO "MY" IDLE SPEED, WHICH IS 700 RPM (20 RPM IS NO BIG DEAL!)

LET'S LOOK AT "MAY 13" ON DOWN TO THE END----SEE ALL THE LINKS IN "MAY 30" THEY EXPLAIN STUFF WELL----IN GRIZZLY93'S POST

http://www.2carpros.com/questions/1982-jeep-cj7-ignition-problem-spark-distributor-cap

HERE'S TWO MORE----SAME FELLER ASKING BOTH---HE HAS A 304----THE METHODS ARE THE SAME AS A SIX CYLINDER----THE ONLY DIFFERENCE IS 2 EXTRA CYLINDERS (AND NO ROOM!) AND THE CONFIGURATION OF THE MARKS, ETC......IN THESE POSTS I DID USE PICS OF MY 258 TO TRY TO CONVEY THE METHODS TO HIM

http://www.2carpros.com/questions/1980-jeep-cj7-v8-wont-start

http://www.2carpros.com/questions/1980-jeep-cj7-timingtuning-problem-with-a

LET ME KNOW WHEN WE NEED TO DO THE LAND-LINE COMMO THING AGAIN---I SHOULD BE GOOD THIS EVENING FROM ABOUT 19:00-23:30 HRS EASTERN THIS EVENING.......STILL GOT MY #?

THE MEDIC
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Monday, August 13th, 2012 AT 3:20 PM
Tiny
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It's going off the manifold vacuum, not the ported vacuum. I did not check idle after reattaching the vacuum line. That wouldn't make it ping, though, would it? I won't have time to talk tonight unfortunately. Maybe later on in the week. I'll keep you posted.

But that clicking sound is definitely pinging, right?
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Monday, August 13th, 2012 AT 5:38 PM
Tiny
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By the way, yes I did plug my vacuum while timing. Yes the idle was at 680 during timing. Also the "clicking" doesn't happen at idle, only when I'm accelerating.
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Monday, August 13th, 2012 AT 5:42 PM
Tiny
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ROGER

CLICKING IS REALLY MORE LIKE A 2-5 SECOND "CLATTER"

MOST LIKELY THIS IS A TIMING ISSUE

HEAR ME OUT!

WE WILL GO OVER HOW TO CHECK TO SEE IF BOTH ADVANCES WORK CORRECTLY SOON

I STILL WANNA KNOW WHETHER YOUR VACUUM ADVANCE LINE IS "MANIFOLD VAC" (CONTINUOUS S. UCKING) OR IS IT "PORTED VAC" (IF YOUR IDLE IS CORRECT, PORTED VAC WILL ONLY S. UCK WHEN YOU OPEN THE THROTTLE UP JUST A LITTLE OR MORE?

YOU CAN TEST FOR EITHER WITH YOUR FINGER OR YOUR TONGUE OR USING A VACUUM GAUGE----YOU CAN STICK ONE IN THE LINE SIMILAR TO THE WAY I HOOK INTO THIS PORT ON MY INTAKE (PIC 1)

I'M PRETTY SURE YOU SAID THAT YOU ARE SORTA EXEMPT FROM THE EMISSIONS TESTING

ALL OF THE OLD VACUUM CRAP ON YOUR RIG IS MOST LIKELY NOT WORKING AS IT DID 20 YEARS AGO, WITH THINGS NOT WORKING AS THEY SHOULD BE, EFFICIENCY IN A GOOD BURN, PROBABLY IS SUFFERING

I THINK THAT MAKING YOUR ENGINE RUN THE BEST IT CAN, WOULD REDUCE BAD EMISSIONS FROM YOUR ENGINE. TESTED OR NOT!

HOW DO YOU FEEL ABOUT SNATCHING ALL OF THE "CRAP" OFF, JUST LEAVING ONLY THE NECESSARY VACUUM LINES AND ELECTRICAL STUFF?

I AM MAKING YOU SOME EZ TO SEE VAC DIAGRAMS ELIMINATING THE CRAP.I WILL POST 'EM SOON

THE MEDIC
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Monday, August 13th, 2012 AT 9:59 PM

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