How to adjust a carb on a 1988 Ford Ranger 2

Tiny
PAMSCOLLINS
  • MEMBER
  • 1984 FORD RANGER
How to adjust a carb on a 1988 Ford RANGER 2.0 MOTOR
Tuesday, March 5th, 2013 AT 6:56 PM

5 Replies

Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
  • 42,882 POSTS
With throttle valve seated in bore of carburetor, press down on upper end of diaphragm shaft until it reached its bottom position. The metering rod arm should now contact the pump lifter link at the outer end nearest the springs. Adjust by bending the pump connector link at its lower angle.

Loosen choke cover retaining screws and turn choke cover so that line or Index mark on cover lines up with the specified mark listed in Adjustment Specifications on choke housing.

Temporarily rotate choke housing rich to lightly close choke plate, then increase an additional 90 degrees.
On all models, activate pulldown motor by applying external vacuum source.
Close choke plate as far as possible without forcing it.
On all models, using drill of specified size, check clearance between lower edge of choke plate and the air horn wall.

Adjust as necessary by bending choke diaphragm link.
Reconnect pulldown motor vacuum tube.

With the engine idle speed and mixture properly adjusted, the engine at normal operating temperature, loosen the anti-stall dashpot lock nut.

Hold the throttle in the curb idle position and depress the dashpot plunger.
Measure the clearance between the throttle lever and plunger tip. Turn the anti-stall dashpot to provide 7/64 inch 1/64 inch clearance between the tip of the plunger and the throttle lever.
Tighten the locknut to secure the adjustment.

Hold the throttle plate fully open and close the choke plate as far as possible without forcing it.
Use a drill of specified diameter to check the clearance between choke plate and air horn, Fig. 7.
If clearance is not within specification, adjust by bending arm on choke trip lever of the throttle lever.
Bending the arm downward will decrease the clearance, bending it upward will increase the clearance.
If the choke plate clearance and fast idle cam linkage adjustment was performed with the carburetor on the engine, adjust the engine idle speed and fuel mixture.
Adjust dashpot, if equipped.

Position fast idle screw on second step of fast idle cam and against shoulder of highest step. Using a drill of specified size, check clearance between lower edge of choke plate and bore. Refer to the Specifications Chart. To adjust, bend choke connector rod as required, Fig. 6.

Invert the air horn assembly, and check the clearance from the top of the float to the bottom of the air horn with the float level gauge, Fig. 4 or 5.
Hold the air horn at eye level when gauging the float level. The float arm (lever) should be resting on the needle pin.
Do not load the needle when adjusting the float.
Bend the float arms as necessary to adjust the float level (clearance).
Caution: Do not bend the tab at the end of the float arm. It prevents the float from striking the bottom of the fuel bowl when empty.

With engine at operating temperature and idle rpm set to specification, open throttle lever so that there is clearance between throttle lever actuating lever and fuel bowl vent rod, Fig. 8.
Close throttle lever to idle set position and measure travel of fuel bowl vent rod at point A. Travel of vent rod at point A should be 0.100 - 0.150 inch.
Bend throttle actuating lever at point indicated in Fig. 8 to adjust as necessary.

Back out the idle speed adjusting screw until the throttle plate is closed tight in the throttle bore.
Press down on upper end of diaphragm shaft until diaphragm bottoms in vacuum chamber. Metering rod should contact bottom of metering rod well, and metering rod should contact lifter link at the outer end, nearest the springs and at supporting lug.
For models not equipped with metering rod adjusting screw, adjust by bending lip of metering rod arm to which metering rod is attached, up or down as required.
For models equipped with a metering rod adjusting screw, turn the adjusting screw until metering rod just bottoms in the body casting, Fig. 5.
For final adjustment turn metering rod adjusting screw in (clockwise) one additional turn.

Please let us know if you need anything else to get the problem fixed.

Cheers, Ken
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Tuesday, May 2nd, 2017 AT 6:01 PM
Tiny
JASONCOONER
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 1978 FORD RANGER
  • V8
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 70,000 MILES
Engine Mechanical problem
1978 Ford Ranger V8 Two Wheel Drive Automatic 70,000 miles

the butterfly valve stays stuck closed when the gas pedal is pressed, it won't open back up & the engine won't fire. Can you help please?
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Tuesday, May 2nd, 2017 AT 6:02 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 108,170 POSTS
Is all the linkage still connected? Also, I need to know if you have an electric thermostat on it or is it heat activated. If I recall, they are heat activated but when the pedal is put to the floor, it should open.

Let me know. Also, let me know what size engine it is.
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Tuesday, May 2nd, 2017 AT 6:02 PM (Merged)
Tiny
  • MEMBER
  • 0 POST
  • 1993 FORD RANGER
  • 100,000 MILES
Was cleaning the intake wiht a spry carb cleaner and the little hose flew off inot the intake. Will that thing hurt it if io start the engine or do I hacve to take the engine apart to get it out?
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Tuesday, May 2nd, 2017 AT 6:02 PM (Merged)
Tiny
HMAC300
  • MECHANIC
  • 48,601 POSTS
Well it should come out as it will have to go through the whole piston/valves and wil probably get stuck. Most you would have to do is take off intake.
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Tuesday, May 2nd, 2017 AT 6:02 PM (Merged)

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