1979 Jeep CJ7 Repair Question
front disc pads
ideally you need to get the brake pressures tested, more than likely a master cylinder problem, but this test will isolate the exact problem.
26,900 answers provided
Read this, maybe you will find something that will help
I seriously doubt your proportioning valve is the problem, unless you have messed with it
CJs are my thing, never had nothing else!.......Disease began in 1981....and has spread!
Keep me informed, I will help all I can......See other CJ5 & 7s I've assisted, here's one example, this feller tried hard!
Thanks for the quick replys! In the interam I installed a new MC, bench bleed, instl'd,rebleed the system, no air. I did tighten up the rear drum brakes,they were loose, in the drive way it now locks up the rears but not the front but no lock up on pavement. Did not notice anything when I had the caliper off except the pads looked like they were glazzed over, should I have used sandpaper to break the glaze? thinking of doing that today. I'm 70yrs old & disabled so if I don't get right back I'm working on it. Is there a way to check pressure,proportioning valve, myself? I feel better with "the medic" in my corner. papacan
Thanks a bunch!....I began answering here, just to help the CJs!
I will send you a message soon (Home-click on your name-look left-should find!)
I do have some info that you might want to see.
I have the '79 AMC Jeep Service Manual
Sorta didn't take care of it, I did not realize how valuable it was till I started needing it, years ago!
Now if you're gonna take it apart anyway...I suggest you invest in a set of, at Minimum, "MID GRADE" New pads....I do not know what you have now...At Autozone, Advance Auto, O'Riellys (The "Hot" Auto Parts Stores) $25-$30+ is what you want to spend, not "$15"!
I'm sorta going back and copying and pasting this next info!
This can be done on the vehicle (my preference) using two people, one pumping and one monitoring the Master Cylinder. I wrap string loops around the little hoses and tie a knot, as to keep the tubes from blowing off of the plastic adapters.
I take it one step further, by squeezing the little hoses with my fingers (as if I were a check valve) The VERY SLOW PUMPING OF THE PEDAL will push the fluid into the reservoir, BY MY PINCHING the lines (sometimes I force 'em against the Master Cylinder's edge with my finger), this will not allow it TO S.UCK AIR BACK, as you see IT S.UCKING back on him, in the beginning of this video....My way makes things faster, but if you did not tie the hoses to the adapters--THEY WILL BLOW LOOSE (lots of adjectives will be used!)
IS THIS KINDA WHAT YOU DID?
This is the basic procedure I use:
KEEP FLUID IN THE RESERVOIR AT ALL TIMES/ CONSTANTLY CHECKING!
START WITH FURTHEST OUT WHEEL CYLINDER, FROM THE MASTER CYLINDER, WORKING TO THE CLOSEST (RR, LR, RF, LF)
2 PEOPLE, ONE PUMPING, OTHER BLEEDING AND REFILLING
1-MAN BREAKS BLEEDER LOOSE-SNUGS IT BACK YELLS, "PUMP IT UP"
2 MAN-PUMPS 6-8 TIMES (YELLS "PUMPING") THEN HOLDS PEDAL--YELLS, "HOLDING"
1-MAN CRACKS BLEEDER...AIR/ FLUID SPURTS OUT
2-MAN YELL, "FLOOR", JUST BEFORE THE PEDAL, ACTUALLY HITS THE FLOOR
1-MAN TIGHTENS THE BLEEDER....WHILE IT IS STILL SPURTING OUT (NOT AFTER IT STOPS...OR IT WILL SUCK AIR BACK IN).....THEN YELLS, "OKAY---PUMP IT UP"
PROCESS STARTS OVER UNTIL SATISFIED WITH THIS WHEEL
YOU SHOULD HAVE THE DRUM BRAKES ALREADY ADJUSTED, BEFORE YOU DO THE BLEEDING PROCEDURE.
I HAVE SEEN DUMMIES BREAK OPEN THE BLEEDERS AND JUST START PUMPING AWAY......NOT GOOD!
With the front wheels up (one at a time is fine), someone standing on the brake pedal, can you turn the wheels by hand????
Need to know where to get/ find stuff....I may can help
I've had 7 CJ's, #1 was a CJ5 w/304, #2 was a '79 w/ 258 (pic below, in 1983)
I also colored the '79 diagrams, as I got tired of being confused when things ran together, as multiple lines paralleled each other...questions? I coded some, as I ran out of colors
I'm going no where....I live for this sorta thing!
Nice dog are you still active duty! The bleeding was done right,steady stream on all corners. How about no sign of wear on the frt. pads? do you think someone put on some super metalick 2 million mile pads. I think I will try & break the glaze first. Will get back. papacan ps only 1600 miles on frt. pads
You get message, in messaging?
Go there, read, reply there, I will get you the info, everything they want us to know about the system!
Either Wheel turn, in the air, brakes applied?
Got out in '87, after I made the World Safe!
Welcome home! Could not find the message. PYI's I put new pads, middle priced ones on & seems a little better. bench bleed m/c about 15 min. to get all the air out & rebleed again when I rebleed the system like the way you suggested,same way as before. My buddy said its about as good as a Jeep can be! I think it could be better. The only thing different on this bleeding I held the spool out on the proportioning valve per Hanyne's. I clicked on my name, but could not find where to check for message's? papacan, recon 101st
Top of this page
click on.... your own user name.....Eagle Feller! Look for...."Check your messages"
Maybe your page set-up is different than ours
To make you feel bad........I've had "Jarheads" find it with no problem!
You did say "Recon" didn't you? Use some of that training!!!!
I did go back and look--I sent you message, for sure, it's in my sent box!
Here for you!.....Gave you an azimuth....gotta find me now!
I did it or more correct we, the medic & I. I woke up in the middle of the night thinking I had 2 problems, air in lines & proportioning valve & I had noticed the,the day before 2 frt brake lines that seemed to long & went up in a high loop & back to cyl, as high as the 32" tires & a perfect place for a air bubble to hang around at hence the spongy pedal & then the PV not working right, hence the low volume in front. So the next AM with the help of my fishing pardner we dropped the frt lines, so the loop was on the bottem & I had read some where that to bleed the brakes with a PV, start with RR & THEN GO TO THE RIGHT FRONT! & bleed it, this makes the PV think that there is a leak in the front & shifts to bloke off fronts hence the low volume in frt., then go to rear & bleed as normal. IT WORKS! I could see the big smile on my buddy's face as I slid past him standing in the my shop door,note the the driveway is hard dirt & gravel. The brakes are a 100% better but will not lock them up at hwy speed. my many Thanks for all the help & support of the members & the Medic, like they say, the Ranger's will always pull you out of trouble! Carl, [papacan]
Big Guy, extra rubber hose (you know what I mean) also means, a place that can Expand in the system (sorta bulge a little, under pressure)....less "pushing" effectiveness!
So lets get the correct ones on there when you can!
Do you still want me to send the PV stuff to your Email? I can hopefully do it this evening, if you want it.
Did you get my "Too Many, Albums"?