I am having trouble getting my starter to engage

ARE YOU GOOD AT THIS AUTO STUFF?

CAN YOU SEND ME A PIC OF YOUR WIRING

I HAVE COLORED A '79 WIRING DIAGRAM---I HAVE IT SAVED---2 PIECES THAT OVERLAP

I ALSO BLEW THE PUPPY UP TO A MONSTER SIZE--SO I COULD USE IT IN THE GARAGE

SOUNDS LIKE YOU HAVE SOMETHING WIRED WRONG--MAYBE THE SOLENOID

I HAVE THAT PORTION SORTA PULLED FROM THE BIG DIAGRAM---LOOK IT OVER---SEE IF YOU SEE THE PROBLEM

I WILL CONTINUE TO ASSIST, AS LONG AS YOU KEEP RESPONDING TELL ME THE WHOLE STORY IN MEGA DETAIL---FROM THE TIME IT WAS OK----TILL THE TIME SOMETHING WENT WRONG

YOU ARE ALLOWED TO BLAME ANY SCREW-UPS ON YOUR EVIL BUDDIES!

YOU FAILED TO GIVE YOUR ENGINE SIZE---DIAGRAM SHOWS BOTH SORTA INTERTWINED---I WILL "CLEAN IT UP" IF YOU TELL ME THE ENGINE SIZE, IF YOU DO NOT UNDERSTAND IT

KEEP IN MIND WHEN I COLORED THIS---"WHITE WIRES" ARE BLACK LINES

"DOTTED WIRES" ARE THE CORRECT COLOR---THE TRACER STRIPE COLOR WAS NOT LISTED SO I DOTTED IT WITH BLACK TO EMPHASIZE IT DOES HAVE A TRACER, OF SOME COLOR ON IT

YOUR TURN

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REALLY LATE HERE

I WORK 1100-1830 EST TOMORROW

I'LL GET IT CLEANED UP SOME SO YOU CAN FOLLOW THE WIRES WITH EASE

MY SECOND JEEP WAS A '79 BACK IN '83----PROBABLY THE BEST YEAR THAT AMC EVER MADE

I'VE SORTA BROUGHT MY PRESENT '77 (CJ 5 #6)---(MY '46 WILLYS IS #7) UP TO THE SAME STANDARDS WITH MANY UPGRADES AND EVEN A BUNCH OF MY MODIFICATIONS TO MAKE IT EVEN MORE "USER FRIENDLY"

I'VE ANSWERED MOST OF THE CJ 5 AND 7 QUESTIONS FOR THE LAST 2+ YEARS

YOU CAN LOOK 'EM OVER---BUT LET'S GET YOU STRAIGHT NOW--BEFORE YOU GO OUT ON YOUR OWN!

SORTA DON'T WANT A BUNCH OF EXTRA FACTORS PLAYING IN

WANNA KNOW IF YOU ARE EMISSIONS TESTED, IF SO, WHAT DO THEY ALLOW FOR AN OLDER RIG LIKE YOURS?

HOW ABOUT LAYING THE HOOD ON THE WINDSHIELD---REMOVE THE BREATHER---STAND ON THE BUMPER AND GET ME SOME GOOD SHOTSGET ME SOME SIDE SHOTS OF BOTH SIDES OF THE WHOLE ENGINE---WITH A DECENT CAMERA

THIS WILL GIVE ME AN IDEA OF THE SITUATION----LETS SEE THE WHOLE JEEP TOO!

YOU WILL NEED SOME OF THIS TOO!

https://www.2carpros.com/questions/2007-ford-taurus-tune-up

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OKI HOPE YOU ARE NOT A HOARDER TOO!

GONNA HAVE TO CLEAN THAT UP!..................(you oughta be ashamed, presenting him like that!)

SO YOU WILL KNOW WHAT IS UNDER THAT MESS!

I'LL HELP YOU

IS MY "STYLE" TOO HARD TO UNDERSTAND??

THANKS FOR THE PICS

I'M PRESENTLY "DOCTORING" PICS OF RICK'S '85 SO THAT THE CHANGES CAN BE SEEN WELL

WE'LL GET INTO "CRAP REMOVAL", TIMING AND TUNING SOON!!!

IF YOU WANNA SORTA STAY CLEAN---WANNA CLEAN THE ENGINE AND COMPARTMENT REALLY GOOD?

LET'S TRY SOME PURPLE POWER---SQUIRT BOTTLE OR PUMP UP SPRAYER---IT'S SOLD IN VARIOUS SIZES.......ADVANCE AUTO PARTSHAS IT

COVER THE HOLE IN YOUR CARB WITH A RAG

KEEP IT OFF OF YOUR EXTERIOR PAINT---RINSE IT WELL IF YOU DO---IT WILL NOT "IMMEDIATELY" EAT YOUR PAINT, JUST RINSE IT SOON

SPRAY EVERYTHING UNDER THE HOOD----BATTERY/ HOSES/ FENDER WELLS/ ALL!!!!!

YOU MIGHT "TOOTHBRUSH" HEAVY DEPOSITS WHILE ITS SITTING

........OR JUST WAIT UNTIL YOU'VE RINSED IT---IT REALLY TAKES OF HEAVY DEPOSITS TOO, YOU'LL GET THE HANG OF IT!

LET IT SIT FOR 5-10 MINUTES----SPRAY IT OFF HARD WITH THE GARDEN HOSE SPRAYER---NO NEED TO PRESSURE WASH IT

NOW RINSE YOUR BODY AGAIN, IN CASE YOU GOT RESIDUE ON IT

LET'S SEE IF WE CAN GET SOME "VALUCRAFT" CARB CLEANER (AUTOZONE'S BRAND)---VALUCRAFT IS THE BEST SPRAY CARB CLEANER I'VE FOUND

I'D SAY ONE CAN OF VALUCRAFT DOES THE JOB OF 3 CANS OF ANOTHER BRAND

I BUY A LOT WHEN THEY PUT IT ON SALE FOR LIKE $1 A CAN!

SPRAY THE ENTIRE CARB THOROUGHLY (NOT TRYING TO CLEAN IT, THIS PASS)---- LET IT SIT 2 -5 MINUTES----IT SHOULD BE "LOOSE" NOW----THEN SPRAY IT AGAIN----THIS TIME USE THE STRAW---AND CONCENTRATE ON STUBBORN GOO, LEAVE IT AND GET THE EZ STUFF, GO BACK TO THE STUBBORN AND TRY AGAIN

THE ONLY THING THAT MAY NEED ATTENTION IS (IF IT ACTS UP) REMOVE THE DISTRIBUTOR CAP AND TOWEL DRY THE INSIDE OF THE CAP--THEN RE-INSTALL

AS FAR AS THE DIMMER AND ANY CONNECTION THAT IS SUBJECT TO THE ELEMENTS----SEE MY ANSWER ON "NOVEMBER 29 2012" IN THIS POST

https://www.2carpros.com/questions/1983-jeep-cj7-low-mileage-6-had-been-while-since-started-two-months-ago/page/2

YOUR TURN

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I CLEANED OUT THE OTHER PARTS OF THE WIRE DIAGRAM

TRACE EVERYTHING OUT RELATED TO THE STARTER/ ALTERNATOR/ SOLENOID

INSURE THE UNDER HOOD PARTS ARE HOOKED UP AS SHOWN--WE MAY HAVE TO SEE WHAT INSIDE THE FIREWALL COULD BE WRONG---IF IT'S NOT UNDER THE HOOD

KEEP ME POSTED

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LETS LOOK AT THIS ONE TOO

CONNECTIONS---ESPECIALLY WET AND MUDDY ONES MAY NEED SOME SPECIAL ATTENTION

https://www.2carpros.com/questions/1996-chevrolet-tahoe-wont-start-sounds-dead-battery-jumpbox-get-same-reults

LET ME KNOW HOW MUCH YOU'VE GOTTEN DONE!

WE'LL KEEP ON GOING

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I'M GONNA GO INTO THE SOLENOID

ON MINE, I HAVE SWITCHED THE ROLES OF THE TWO BIG POSTS. MOST OLDER FORDS ARE HOOKED LIKE YOU WILL SEE MINE

THE BIGGEST REASON I HAVE DONE BOTH OF MY JEEPS LIKE THIS IS. THE POSITIVE BATTERY CABLE WILL BE RIGHT BESIDE "S" TERMINAL ("3" AND "C" IN MY PICS)

HAVING THEM SIDE BY SIDE I CAN USE A SCREWDRIVER SHAFT TO CONNECT THEM FOR A TEMPORARY "BUMP" OF THE ENGINEIF A REMOTE STARTER SWITCH IS UNAVAILABLE

IF THE KEY IS ON---I CAN START IT THAT WAY

LOOKING AT A CJ WIRING DIAGRAM THEY ARE USUALLY SWAPPED JUST OPPOSITEHOWEVER YOU CHOOSE TO DO IT

---THE STARTER CABLE IS "ALL BY ITSELF" ON ONE BIG POST

---THE POSITIVE BATTERY CABLE AND ALL "FEEDS" ARE SANDWICHED ON THE OTHER BIG POST

"S" AND "I" REMAIN THE SAME AND CANNOT BE SWITCHED (EXCEPT BY ACCIDENT---THEN IT WON'T DO NOTHIN'!)

THE POSITIVE BATTERY CABLE ("1") HOOKS TO THE LEFT SIDE OF THE SOLENOID (THE BIG POST, "A"). THE OTHER BIG POST ("B") IS FOR THE STARTER CABLE ONLY! ("2"), SORTA HARD TO SEE IN THE SHADOW

JUST FOR INFO--THE LITTLE STUD ON THE LEFT IS "S" TERMINAL ("C") TURNING THE KEY TO "START" MAKES THE IGNITION SWITCH SEND 12 VOLTS TO THE "S" TERMINAL, WHICH ACTIVATES THE SOLENOID---THEN THE STARTER TURNS OVER

THE OTHER LITTLE POST ON THE RIGHT, ("D"), IS "I" TERMINAL, IT SORTA BOOSTS THE COIL AT START-UP

NORMALLY "S" AND "I" ARE MOLDED INTO THE PLASTIC SO YOU WILL KNOW WHICH IS WHICH

FUSIBLE LINK ON A CJ AND OLDER FORDS (A SHORT WIRE ACTING AS A FUSE)----A FUSIBLE LINK IS A WIRE, BUT IT MELTS IF THE AMP DRAW GETS TOO HIGH---THEY COME IN DIFFERENT AMP RATINGS. MOST OF THE TIME IT'S THE LAST LINE OF DEFENSE IF A SHORT HAPPENS

THEY ARE USUALLY LOCATED IN THE SYSTEM WHERE THE WIRE WOULD START "COOKING" 1ST, SHOULD IT OVERHEAT, OFFERING THE BEST PROTECTION, TO PREVENT MASSIVE WIRE HARNESS MELTAGE OR A FIRE. IN THE CASE OF MY JEEPS, AT THE BEGINNING, WHERE THE POWER ORIGINATES

ON THE FORD SYSTEM (MY JEEP TOO) THE POSITIVE BATTERY CABLE ("1") IS PIGGYBACKED ON TO OTHER WIRES ON THE SOLENOID (A)RIGHT HERE AT "THIS POINT", THE ENTIRE JEEP GETS ALL POWER INSIDE AND OUT

THE SOLENOID IN THE PICS BELONGS TO MY 1946 WILLYS JEEP, AND MY '77 ---I KINDA MIMICKED MUCH OF THE WAY MY 1977 CJ5 WAS WIRED, WHEN I MODERNIZED IT'S WIRING

"3" GOES TO MY FUSE BOX (POWERS EVERYTHING ON MY '46)

"4" GOES TO MY ALTERNATOR ---AGAIN ON MY '46

BOTH "3" AND "4" ARE FUSIBLE LINKS. SOME HAVE MARKINGS SUCH AS "3"---OTHERS ARE NOT MARKED, SUCH AS "4"

AS FAR AS SIZES, MANY ARE REFFED TO BY "GAUGE"

SOME DON'T LOOK NOTHIN' LIKE THESE ON OTHER CARS!

YOU CAN SEE THE "HEAT SHRINK" WHERE I TIED INTO "REAL WIRES"

THERE ARE 3 WAYS I CAN THINK OF TO TEST CJ FUSIBLE LINKS

1ST METHOD IS: IT'S OBVIOUSLY BURNED OR DISTORTED.

2ND METHOD IS A CONTINUITY TEST.

THE LAST AND EZist TO DO IS, TUG ON THE FUSIBLE LINK, IF IT FEELS STOUT, IT'S PROBABLY GOOD---IF YOU PULL ON IT AND IT THE INSULATION STRETCHES OUT LIKE A RUBBER BAND, THE WIRE IS FRIED. BUT DID IT'S JOB IN PROTECTING THE CIRCUIT!

KEEP THIS IN MIND."WHY DID IT MELT/ BLOW?" FIX THE PROBLEM. DON'T JUST "STRAIGHT WIRE" IT BACK TOGETHER WITHOUT A FUSIBLE LINK. THIS IS JUST ASKING FOR SOMETHING BAD TO HAPPEN!

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YOU'RE SUPPOSED TO BE A JEEP GUY NOW

WE ALL GET RAZZED A LITTLE! LOL!

IF YOU'LL INVESTIGATE THE CJ FORUMS, YOU'LL SEE A LITTLE HUMOR MIXED IN FROM TIME TO TIME

I HAVE YET TO ABANDON SOMEONE NEEDING HELP WITH THEIR CJ

I TAKE PRIDE IN MY STYLE OF EXPLAINING STUFF MORE THAN I NEED TO, AND TAKING PICS--SPENDING HOURS AND HOURS---DRIVING TO FRIENDS HOUSES TAKING PICS OF THEIR STUFF---JUST SO THE UNKNOWN FELLER ON THE OTHER END CAN UNDERSTAND WHAT TO DO

I PUT OUT QUITE A BIT OF INFO, MOST ARE ABLE TO GET 'ER DONE!

IS MY INFO AIDING YOU AT ALL?

YES, YOU NEED TO CLEAN IT---SO I MIGHT SEE WHAT SORTA MODIFICATIONS HAVE BEEN MADE---SO I CAN "POINT" AT WHAT YOU NEED TO DO---KNOW WHAT IT IS---KNOW WHAT IT DOESIF YOU SEND THE PICS AGAIN

I'VE BEEN CJin" A LONG TIME, I HAVE QUITE A BIT OF EXPERIENCE, MAINLY, BECAUSE I'VE DONE IT ALMOST DAILY SINCE 1981

I'VE BEEN FEEDING YOU INFO, EVEN WITHOUT YOU REPLYING BACK, IN HOPES YOU WOULD RETURN WITH AN UPDATE

I'M STILL VAGUE ON YOUR INITIAL PROBLEM----I UNDERSTAND THE STARTER WAS TESTED AND IS SUPPOSED TO BE SERVICEABLE

NEVER WAS FED INFO ABOUT WHAT IT "DOES" OR "DOES NOT" DO---NEVER VERIFIED IF THE BATTERY WAS TESTED AT THE AUTO PARTS STORE

WITH A BURNING WIRE---SOMETHING IS NOT RIGHT

LET ME KNOW IF WE CAN BE JEEP PALS. READ MY AVATAR

KEEP ME POSTED ON YOUR END

I FORGOT TO POST THIS PIC AFTER YOU ASKED THE QUESTION, AS I GOT CARRIED AWAY SENDING YOU OTHER INFO

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I SCOURED OVER YOUR PICS, BEST I COULD

MECHANICALLY (AND THE FUEL SYSTEM) LOOK TO BE CORRECT

YOUR WIRING LOOKS AS THOUGH IT'S BEEN REPLACED BEFORE---IT MIGHT BE "MOSTLY RIGHT---OR PARTIALLY WRONG!

SOMETHING DEFINITELY WAS WRONG SOMEWHERE----OTHERWISE THE ALTERNATOR WIRE WOULD NOT HAVE FRIED----BAD THING IS---ONE WIRE FRYING, LAYING AGAINST OTHERS GOOD WIRES, COULD CAUSE A CHAIN REACTION

LET'S CLEAN IT UP SO YOU WILL HAVE A GOOD WORKING ENVIRONMENT!

IF YOU WILL TAKE MY 2 DIAGRAMS THAT I SO METICULOUSLY COLORED IN MICROSOFT PAINT AND HAVE AN OFFICE STORE BLOW THEM UP---THEN ASSEMBLE THE 2 PIECESTHE RIGHT SIDE OVERLAPS THE LEFTFOR BEST RESULTS---THEN HAVE THE OFFICE STORE LAMINATE IT FRONT AND BACK

THIS COST ME ABOUT $30 TO DO, IT HAS BEEN SO EZ TO TRACE OUT THE WIRING, COMPARED TO USING THE ORIGINAL BLACK AND WHITE SMALL DIAGRAM STRAIGHT OUT OF A REPAIR MANUAL (LIKE I STARTED WITH)----SO WELL WORTH IT!

I HAVE DONE THE HARD PART ALREADY!

JUST REMEMBER THE SOLENOID IS "TEXTBOOK" IN THE BIG DIAGRAM---SWAP THE BIG POSTS IF YOU LIKE---SEEN IN MY PREVIOUS ANSWER

LOOK AT THE SIZE OF MY "NEW WIRE DIAGRAM"!---COMPARED TO THE MOUNTAIN DEW CANS

YOU ARE GONNA HAVE TO TRACE EACH WIRE---LOOK FOR "MELTAGE" ALONG THE WAY----INSURE IT GOES WHERE IT SHOULD----MAYBE EVEN PUT A "STICKER" ON EACH END OF IT'S DESTINATION---PROVING IT WAS CHECKED, JUST SO YOU DON'T DO IT THE SAME ONE OVER AND OVER!

YOURS MIGHT GO QUICKLY, AS THERE ARE NO WIRE LOOMS OVER THE WIRES (YET), EVERYTHING UNDER THE HOOD IS EXPOSED, APART, AND WOULD HAVE BEEN LESS LIKELY TO MELT INTO A "BUNCH" AT ONCE (LIKE BUNDLED IN A LOOM)

YOU NEED A PAL (LOCAL) TO HELP YOU KEEP ALL OF THIS STRAIGHT---YOU WILL GET CONFUSED/ DISORIENTED/ FATIGUED/ DOING THIS ALL BY YOURSELF

REMOVE THE ALTERNATOR AND HAVE IT TESTED AT THE PARTS STORETHIS IS NORMALLY FREE ALSO

SEND "CLEAN PICS" OF BATTERY--SOLENOID--STARTERMAYBE I CAN SEE SOMETHING OBVIOUSLY WRONG

THE NEGATIVE BATTERY CABLE TO THE ENGINE BLOCK IS PLENTY OF GROUND FOR AN "OEM STYLE" STARTER

DO YOU WANT THE TWO HALVES OF MY COLORED 1979 DIAGRAM FROM MY DOWNLOADS--TO BE BLOWN UP?

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IT WILL GET CONTINITY!

LISTEN NOW!

IF YOU REMOVE THE POSITIVE WIRE FROM THE STARTER----WITH A OHM METER---TOUCH THE STARTER'S CONNECTION ON THE STARTER WITH ONE LEAD----TOUCH THE OTHER TO THE ENGINE

CONTINUITY WILL RUN THRU THE BRUSHES IN THE STARTER AND ON TO THE GROUND

THIS HOLDS TRUE FOR LIGHTS AND OTHER APPLIANCES

YOU MUST TAKE STUFF LOOSE OR REMOVE BULBS IN ORDER TO ISOLATE WIRES FROM RUNNING THEIR WAY BACK TO A GROUND

THIS WILL LET YOU TEST "THAT WIRE" ONLY---IF IT'S BROKEN---NO CONTINUITY

IF IT "SHORTS" CONTINUITY WILL NOT LET YOU KNOW---UNLESS THE OTHER WIRE GOES TO GROUND

LET ME KNOW HOW IT'S GOING

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REVIEWING THIS

I DON'T KNOW IF YOU ARE USING A VOLTMETER TO TEST THIS STUFF OR NOR

TO ANSWER THIS CONTINUITY QUESTION YOU JUST ASKED

TAKE OFF THE POSITIVE BATTERY CABLE OFF OF THE BATTERY!

IF YOU MEAN THAT YOU HAVE THE POSITIVE GOING INTO THE SOLENOID ON THE ONE SIDE (ACCESSORY WIRES STACKED AGAINST THE POSITIVE SIDE)

AND YOU HAVE THE STARTER COMING OUT OF THE OTHER SIDE (ALL BY ITSELF)

HERE'S THE KICKER----

IF YOU REMOVE "S" AND "I" WIRES OFF OF THE SOLENOID

THEN HOOK UP THE BATTERY BACK UPNOTHING SHOULD HAPPEN (IF IT DOES, REPLACE THE SOLENOID WITH A NEW ONE!)

----AGAIN, TAKE THE BATTERY LOOSE

NOW HOOK UP THE "S" AND "I" WIRES WHERE THEY GO

HOOK THE BATTERY CABLE BACK ON

NOTHING SHOULD HAPPENIF IT DOES"S" HAS 12 VOLTS RUNNING THRU IT (ACTIVATING THE SOLENOID)

TAKE "S" WIRE BACK OFFALONG WITH "I" WIRE

TEST "BOTH" WITH A VOLTMETER--THEY SHOULD BE DEAD!

"I" SHOULD NOT HAVE ANY VOLTAGE---UNLESS THE KEY IS "ON" (NOT START)----THEN IT SHOULD HAVE THE SAME VOLTAGE AS THE "POSITIVE SIDE" OF THE COIL

WITH THE KEY OFF--THE COIL POSITIVE AND "I WIRE" SHOULD BE DEAD

"S" SHOULD ONLY GET 12 VOLTS, WHEN THE KEY IS IN THE "START POSITION"---IT SHOULD BE DEAD IN THE "OFF" AND "ON" POSITIONS

"S" AND "I" TERMINALS ARE MARKED ON THE SOLENOID (MICROSCOPIC WRITING OVER THE TERMINALS)

IF IT HAS 12 VOLTS, NO MATTER WHATYOU EITHER----HAVE THE "S" AND "I" SWAPPED/ THE "WRONG WIRE" (SOMETHING OTHER THAN "S")/ THE IGNITION SWITCH IS BAD/ SOMETHING ELSE IS TIED INTO THE "S" WIRE AND FEEDING IT CONSTANTLY (NOTHING SHOULD BE TIED INTO "S" WIRE) IT WINDS UP BACK AT THE IGNITION SWITCH

YOUR READING MAY NOT BE THE SAME AS MINELET ME KNOW WHAT YOU DO HAVE"i" SHOULD BE THE SAME AS THIS WITH THE KEY "ON". SEE MY 1ST PIC

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OK---THIS IS A '79 DIAGRAM!

NOTHING SHOULD BE DIFFERENT!

LOOK AT "I WIRE"----"I" STOPS AT THE 1ST SPLICE----STRAIGHT ON THRU THE SPLICE IS THE "RESISTANCE WIRE" (YES, THEY CONNECT AT THE SPLICE)----THE OTHER WIRE IN THE SAME SPLICE IS TO THE POS SIDE OF THE COIL

IF ANYTHING ELSE IS TIED IN----IT NEEDS TO BE REMOVED

IF IT IS AN ACCESSORY, IT NEEDS TO STACK ONTO THE BIG POST NEXT TO THE POSITIVE SIDE OF THE BATTERY CABLE ON THE SOLENOID----OR TO THE BATTERY IT REALLY NEEDS TO BE "FUSE PROTECTED"!

SEE MY PIC USING 2 FEMALE STAKE-ONS AND A FUSE IN A WIRE ----CHEAP AND EZ---MAY SAVE YOUR JEEP FROM CATCHING ON FIRE!

"I WIRE" PROVIDES FULL BATTERY VOLTAGE, TIL THE KEY IS RELEASED FROM "START" THEN THE "RESISTANCE WIRE" TAKES OVERAT THAT TIME BOTH THE "RESISTANCE WIRE AND "I" ARE FED FROM IGN SWITCH (SOLENOID "I TERMINAL" BASICALLY AIN'T FEEDING ANY MORE). ABOUT 8 VOLTS WINDS UP AT THE COIL (AND EVERYTHING IN THE SPLICE)NOT ENOUGH TO FEED AN ACCESSORY PROPERLYTHE "EVIL TIE IN" MAY INTERFERE WITH COIL OPERATION

I SORTA ENLARGED THE DIAGRAM FOR YOU---AND THE FUSE PIC TOO

THE FUSE PIC IS SHOWING A TEST ---- NOT INTENDED FOR YOU YET!

ANY MORE PROGRESS?

KEEP ME INFORMED SOONER IF POSSIBLE, Y'ALL ARE KILLING ME!IT'S HARD HAVING TO RE-READ SO MANY DELAYED POSTS, SO I CAN GET BACK INTO THE GROOVE! SOONER KEEPS IT FRESH IN MY HEAD!

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