1979 Ford F-100 Brakes Sticking

Tiny
FORDOLD
  • MEMBER
  • 1979 FORD F-100
  • 0.5L
  • V8
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 100,000 MILES
I have a 1979 Ford F100 and the front brakes keep locking up. I've replaced the master cylinder, brake hoses, calipers, and proportioning valve. Nothing has worked. Any suggestions?
Do you
have the same problem?
Yes
No
Monday, June 30th, 2014 AT 6:55 PM

5 Replies

Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • MECHANIC
  • 33,699 POSTS
You've handled the more common causes. How about a brake light switch that's out of adjustment and holding the pedal down a little? There's two different styles of switch and one can be misadjusted. The clue is the brakes will release if you loosen the master cylinder's mounting bolts a little.

The next time this happens, open a bleeder screw or loosen the steel lines at the master cylinder to see where the brake fluid is being trapped.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
-1
Monday, June 30th, 2014 AT 8:02 PM
Tiny
FORDOLD
  • MEMBER
  • 5 POSTS
When the brakes lock up, I open a bleeder screw on the front wheel and they release for a while, then lock up again.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
+3
Tuesday, July 1st, 2014 AT 5:47 PM
Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • MECHANIC
  • 33,699 POSTS
That tells us there's fluid getting trapped and it's not the fault of the calipers. When it does it again, loosen the steel lines at the master cylinder and see if that lets the brakes release.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
+3
Tuesday, July 1st, 2014 AT 5:58 PM
Tiny
FORDOLD
  • MEMBER
  • 5 POSTS
If the brakes release after I loosen the lines at the master cylinder, what does that indicate? Is the master cylinder bad?
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Wednesday, July 2nd, 2014 AT 3:52 PM
Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • MECHANIC
  • 33,699 POSTS
You said you replaced it already, so that leaves just two possibilities. One is something is holding the brake pedal down a little. That is almost always the brake light switch. The second is the brake fluid is contaminated with a petroleum product. The clue there is the new master cylinder would have solved the problem for a day or two but it would have occurred again. The only fix for contaminated fluid is to remove every part that has rubber in it that contacts the brake fluid and to flush and dry the steel lines, then replace the parts and put in fresh, new fluid. If any rubber part is not replaced, the contamination will leach out of it and recontaminate all the other new parts. That includes calipers, wheel cylinders, rubber flex hoses, master cylinder, combination valve, and height-sensing proportioning valve. A '79 might not have the last one.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
+3
Thursday, July 3rd, 2014 AT 11:01 PM

Please login or register to post a reply.

Sponsored links