Mechanics

IGNITION TROUBLE

1977 Jeep CJ5 • 100,000 miles

All the guts in my steering column are desinigrated and I want to PERMANENTLY hotwire my Jeep. It's just a farm vehicle and is not licensed or anything. I realize you have to have current going to the coil and then energize the starter but there's about 10 wires going to steering column. What I'd like to do is put a toggle switch on the dash for current to the coil and just a push button starter button to start the vehicle. Can you help with which wire goes where?
Avatar
Wardacres
January 4, 2012.



I GOTCHU BOSS!

I'VE BEEN THIKIN' ABOUT LATER ON REMOVING MY KEY SWITCH ASSEMBLY AND JUST PLUGGING THE HOLE WITH A PERTY LOOKIN' CAP----I WOULD LOSE THE LOCKABLE STEERING CONCEPT----I COULD EZily PUT 'ER BACK TOGETHER

I RECKON AS YOU GET OLDER--YOU JUST DON'T LIKE TWISTIN' THE KEY---IT'S LIKE THEY INTENTIONALLY ENGINEERED IT INTO THE MUST UNCOMFORTABLE ANGLE

INSTEAD OF CHOPPIN' INTO MY WIRES, MY THOUGHTS WERE TO SORTA MODIFY THE IGNITION SWITCH

A LITTLE DREMEL TOOL WORK AND SOME SOLDERING

I COULD JUST "PLUG IN" MY MODIFICATION----AND THE WIRE HARNESS WOULD REMAIN INTACT

MY MODIFICATION WOULD INCLUDE 3 AIRCRAFT TYPE TOGGLE SWITCHES (YOU KNOW THE ONES WITH THE RED, FLIPPER DEALEE (SAFETY COVER) THAT YOU "SLAP" AND IT TURNS THE TOGGLE OFF

ONE BEING "START" ("S" WIRE). MOMENTARY CONTACT

ONE BEING IGNITION---- ON-OFF

THE LAST BEING ACCESSORIES----ON-OFF

THESE 3 WOULD BE ON THE DASH

UNDER THE DASH, HIDDEN, I'D HAVE A MASTER TO KILL THE "FEED"SORTA A SECURITY MEASURE, IF NEEDED

THE WHOLE SYSTEM JUST SNAPPED INTO THE ORIGINAL HARNESS, W/ THE MODIFIED IGN SWITCH

TURN SIGNALS AND HORN ARE ON ANOTHER CONNECTOR, SO THEY ARE NOT INVOLVED

I TOO, HAVE A '77 CJ 5--AND A '46 WILLYS ( UP TILL NOW, HAVE OWNED 7)

I HAVE MADE MANY USER FRIENDLY MODIFICATIONS TO BOTH---AND I HAVE ASSEMBLED WALMART DIGITAL PHOTO ALBUMS OF PIC AND EXPLANATIONS TO SOME OF THEMIF INTERESTED, LET ME KNOW, I WILL GIVE YOU A ROUTE TO GO WITHOUT BLURTING OUT YOU EMAIL ADDRESS ON OPEN FORUM

I CAN SHOW YOU THE WIRING! NO PROBLEM---I HAVE MODIFIED A WIRE DIAGRAM TO MAKE STUFF LIKE THIS EZ----WHATCHU THINK ABOUT MY IDEA?

THE MEDIC


Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
Jan 5, 2012.
Yes, I'd appreciate any help you can provide. Like I said, it's a farm toy and I just need to know which wire is to the coil, which to the starter, etc. Not concerned about turn signals, dash lights and all that YET.I'll worry about that after I get it running. My trouble started with a bad ignition switch. I bought a new switch and removed the steering wheel and all the plastic parts inside the steering column had turned to dust. Everything destroyed. Let me know if you know which color is start, coil etc. By the way, it's a standard 304 and what replacement Holley 2 barrel carb will fit the intake? My carb is shot and I'd like to just get a simple (no choke)two barrel.I can get a carb anywhere. Just not sure about bolting it on (adapter etc)


Tiny
Wardacres
Jan 5, 2012.
OK HERE'S THE DEAL

IMMA GONNA SEND YOU A MESSAGE GO TO THE TOP OF THIS PAGE (OR OTHERS)---CLICK ON YOUR NAME----MESSAGES WILL BE OVER ON THE LEFT

I CAN INITIATE TO YOU (YOU CAN ANSWER ME [REPLY])

YOU CAN'T INITIATE A MESSAGE TILL YOU GET 10 POSTS. DON'T ASK ME?

THIS IS A 1979 DIAGRAM

IT IS MOSTLY THE SAME THRU THE YEARS----BETWEEN '77 AND '79 THE ONLY THING I FOUND THAT CHANGED WAS THEY WENT FROM GLASS FUSES TO THE SQUARE ONES (NOT SHOWN IN THE DIAGRAM). THE DIAGRAM STILL REMAINS THE SAME!

MY PIC IS WHAT I HAD IT BLOWN UP AND LAMINATED AT THE OFFICE STORE ----EZ FOR ME

THE VERSION I SEND IS THE SAME---IN 2 PARTS---IF YOU PRINT IT---THE RIGHT HALF GOES ON TOP OF THE LEFT HALF (IT FITS BEST)YOU WILL UNDERSTAND, AS BOTH HALVES CONTAIN THE "SAME FUSE BOX"THE OVERLAP IS ON THE "6 GRID"

THE 304 PART IS THE UPPER PORTION OF THE LEFT DIAGRAM---258 IS THE LOWER. SOME STUFF IS SHARED

HERE'S THE "RULES"

I SCANNED AND COLORED THIS DIAGRAM IN "MS PAINT".I'M NOT PERFECT.I DID MAKE THINGS WORK

THE WIRES ARE COLORED CORRECTLY

EXCEPTION "WHITE". REMAINS A THIN BLACK LINE

IF THE WIRE HAD A TRACER STRIPE---I DID NOT "COLOR" THE TRACER---INSTEAD I DOTTED THE WIRE WITH BLACK MARKS---EXCEPTION "WHITE" IS DOTTED WITH BLUE MARKS (STILL VERY EZ TO UNDERSTAND)

THE COLOR OF MOST OF THE WIRES IS LABELED SOMEWHERE ALONG THE WIRE---ALONG WITH IT'S "GAUGE"---AND IF IT HAS A TRACER (THIS STILL DOES NOT DENOTE THE COLOR, THAT'S WHY I DOTTED IT W/ BLACK. OTHERWISE I WOULDA HAD TO LOOK ON THE JEEP FOR THE TRACER COLOR, FOR EACH WIRE)

WHEN YOU GO FOR THE COIL WIRE---DO IT AGAINST THE FIREWALL OR UNDER THE DASH----THEIR IS A RESISTANCE WIRE IN THE COIL SYSTEM, IF YOU CUT INTO IT OR ELIMINATE IT. BAD THINGS WILL HAPPEN!

I'M INCLUDING 2 OTHER DIAGRAMS SORTA MADE FOR OTHER ANSWERS

OK SENDING YOU A MESSAGE WHEN I SUBMIT THIS---LEAVE YOUR EMAIL IN THERE--NOT HERE---THIS WILL GET YOU THE RIGHT AND LEFT FULL DIAGRAM----WON'T BLUR LIKE IT WOULD IF SUBMITTED HERE, IF YOU ENLARGE IT

LET ME KNOW WHAT YOU NEED---I REALLY GET INTO HELPING ANOTHER JEEP GUY----SEE THE CJ 5 & 7 FORUMS HERE

THE MEDIC


Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
Jan 5, 2012.
GIMME A LITTLE TIME ON THE CARB--I FOUND A GREAT DEAL ON A 6 CYL BBD NOT LONG AGO FOR SOMEBODY ON HERE

STAY WITH ME. ANY OTHER CJ ISSUES?

THE MEDIC


Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
Jan 5, 2012.
I sent you my email addy. Again, I appreciate all the help. The old Jeep is fun to drive and I love working on it. No computers and all the junk. You can even get your hands in the compartment. There has got to be a simple way to put in another ignition switch of some sort. We'll figure it out


Tiny
Wardacres
Jan 5, 2012.
I MADE MANY UPGRADES TO MINE

THE TOP OF THE LIST ONES ARE AS FOLLOWS IN ORDER

1) CHANGING THE "PRESTOLITE IGNITION AND DISTRIBUTOR" OVER TO THE NEWER "'79 UP-MOTORCRAFT IGNITION AND DISTRIBUTOR (I HAD SO MANY PROBLEMS W/ BROKEN ITTY-BITTY SOLID WIRES, MODULE FAILURE, AND VACUUM ADVANCE FAILURE IN THE CHEAPO, MOSTLY PLASTIC DISTRIBUTOR)---IT'S NOT JUST SPLICED IN, BUT OBTAINING THE THE CORRECT CONNECTORS FROM 80s FORDS TO MAKE IT RIGHT----I LIKE IT, I CAN TRUST IT NOW

2) REVAMPING THE MECHANICAL CLUTCH LINKAGE (SO MANY MECHANICAL FAILURES AND "FRICTION" WEAR OVER THE YEARS W/ PREVIOUS CJs--IT IS NOW BULLETPROOF!--AT 5 YEARS TO THE DAY, AFTER MAKING THE MODS TO IT, I TOOK IT APART AND FOUND ONLY DISCOLORATION TO THE "WEAR POINTS"---I FEEL IT WILL LAST FOREVER NOW---MISSION ACCOMPLISHED!I MADE AN ALBUM ON IT, WANNA SEE?

3) REPLACING THE SUBSTANDARD HEATER AND VENT OF 1977, WITH A '79-'86 SYSTEM ----HEAT/ DEFROST/ AND VENT ARE AS PERFECT AS A CJ CAN GET----"DEFROST AND VENT" BEING THE MOST APPRECIATED FEATURES NOW---AS FAR AS HEAT, I MADE A SECONDARY HEATER (W/ IT'S OWN HEATER CORE) IF I NEED MORE WARMTH, I TURN IT ON, IT WILL RUN YOU OUT VERY SHORTLY (I HAVE PICS OF THE TWO I MADE, ONE IN EACH JEEP). IT'S BEEN DUBBED "THE SAHARA BREEZE"

3A)DOIN' THE HEATER SWAP WAS CHALLENGING AS I HAD TO RELOCATE ANCHOR BOLTS AND RE DO THE DRAIN--GETTING THE "AIR BOX" FIT THE COWL VENT WAS MUCH FUN, BUT NOT REAL AWFUL

HOWEVER, ANYONE WHO HAS A '79-'86 HEATER WILL APPRECIATE THAT I TOOK THE TIME TO CUT THE BACKSIDE OF THE HEATER AT THE HEATER CORE---THEN TRANSFERRED THAT, AND THE BLOWER MOTOR LOCATION ONTO THE FIREWALL. I CUT ALL OF THAT OUT AND MADE ACCESS COVERS. THE COOL THING HERE IS, I NEVER HAVE TO REMOVE THE HEATER UNIT AGAIN TO CHANGE THE CORE OR BLOWER MOTOR.I CAN SIMPLY REMOVE THE BATTERY TRAY, AND THEN 2 COVERS, MY HEATER CORE AND BLOWER WILL COME OUT ON THE ENGINE SIDE OF THE FIREWALL

AFTER ASKED TO DO SO BY A JEEP BUDDY--I WENT BACK AND PLOTTED POINTS, GOT ACCURATE MEASUREMENTS FROM THE "'79-'86 ANCHOR BOLTS" AND VARIOUS OTHER PERMANENT PARTS---AND PLOTTED POINTS SO THE NEXT GUY WON'T HAVE TO DO ALL OF THE TEDIOUS TRANSFERRING TO MAKE THE CUTS----I MADE AN ALBUM OF THAT TOO! WANT IT?

GOT MORE ALBUMS---1 SHOWS MY REMOVABLE CANOE RACK---"NELSOMATIC CJ CRUISE CONTROL", MY "MANCAVE" AND OTHERS! (ONE PIC INSIDE MY MANCAVE BELOW)

KEEP ON JEEPIN' W/ ME WE'LL GET YOU SQUARED AWAY!

'BOUT TO GO GET YOUR MESSAGE AND SEND THE WIRE DIAGRAMS

THE MEDIC


Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
Jan 5, 2012.
Loke your mancave. I retired from the Air Force (Pentagon) and now spend alot of time helping Vets get disability/medical treatment. I don't make any money doing it but I'm glad to help the Vets. Over time, I'd like to get my CJ in great shape. It hasn't ran in 3 years. Body is still fairly good, no rust. Interior (Levi Addition) is trashed. Gotta lot of work to do on it but I enjoy it. So glad you're here to help.


Tiny
Wardacres
Jan 5, 2012.
HOW'S EVERYTHING GOING NOW?

HAVEN'T HEARD FROM YOU IN A WHILE (OR YOU HAVEN'T HEARD FROM ME!)

THE MEDIC


Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
May 30, 2012.
Hi everyone,
My first post! I just bought a '77 cj5 yesterday (77 is the lucky # I guess). I was told that it was just the ignition switch that was bad, but when I finally got the ignition switch out the plastic gear behind it is completely broken.
I want to wire an ignition switch and a kill switch also, but I have the same problem, I dont know which wires to use.
Could you medevac, or anyone, please send me a diagram to help me out here. Many thanks


Tiny
Leviseratt
Feb 5, 2013.
ROGER THAT!

GLAD YOU CAME TO SEE ME leviseratt.......THOUGHT MAYBE NOBODY LOVED ME ANY MORE

HOW QUICK DO YOU NEED IT?

DO YOU HAVE A TILT STEERING COLUMN?

I'VE BEEN THINKING ABOUT CHANGING MINE TOO!......IGN, THAT IS

I REALLY DON'T LIKE THE "WRIST ACTION" OF TURNING THE KEY

I'VE HAD FELLERS OLDER THAN ME (LIKE IN THEIR 60s) COMPLAIN TO ME IN THE PAST.....MOSTLY ABOUT OTHER VEHICLES AND THEIR CRICKETTY OLD JOINTS, HAVING A HARD TIME DOING THE "TWISTY THING"

AS FOR ME.......I'VE HAD THESE "TOGGLE THOUGHTS" ON MY PAST 5 AND PRESENT 3 FOREVER AND EVER.....IT JUST AIN'T THE SAME AS, LIKE CRANKING UP THE TRACTOR!

MY PLAN IS TO REMOVE THE KEY/LOCK CYLINDER (PERMANENTLY---BUT ABLE TO PUT IT BACK IF NECESSARY).......AND MAKE SOME KINDA "PERTTY PLUG" OVER THE HOLE

WITH THAT REMOVED---THE STEERING WILL NOT LOCK (SO WHAT!)JUST SO IT DOES NOT ACCIDENTALLY ENGAGE WHILE BOUNCING ABOUT........I MAY:

A) WEDGE SOMETHING IN THE KEY CYLINDER HOLE TO PREVENT THE LINKAGE FROM MOVING

B) AT THE IGNITION SWITCH END (BEHIND THE DASH) WIRE THE ACTUATOR ROD SO IT WON'T MOVE WITH SAFETY WIRE (PROCESS EZily REVERSED).............I'M LEANING TOWARDS THIS ONE!

I HAD A "SELF INFLICTED" SIMILAR SITUATION IN "JEEP #1"---I MADE IT THRU BASIC TNG/ AIRBORNE SCHOOL/ THEN RIP AND WAS STATIONED AT HUNTER ARMY AIRFIELD IN SAVANNAH,GA. , WITH THE 1ST/ 75TH RANGER BATTALION......BACK THERE, THIS WAS 1983.

WHILE CROSSING THE "TALMADGE BRIDGE" (THE ORIGINAL ONE)

AT THE TIP-TOP, AT 55 MPH, IN TRAFFIC, I MADE THE DECISION TO "COAST" MY JEEP AS FAR AS HE WOULD GO.

I TURNED OFF THE IGNITION SWITCH---UPON NEEDING TO MAKE MY 1ST STEERING WHEEL CORRECTION, I REALIZED I HAD TURNED IT ALL THE WAY TO "LOCK"

SIMULTANEOUSLY ---I NEEDED TO STEER (AND ASAP!)---AND UNLOCK THE STEERING !!!

IT IS IMPOSSIBLE TO TURN THE KEY, WHILE TORQUE-ING THE STEERING WHEEL HARD LEFT (AT THE TIME, NEARLY TWISTING THE COLUMN IN HALF)!

BY SOME MIRACLE, I LET OFF OF THE "DEATH GRIP" OF THE WHEEL, AND TURNED THE KEY TO "ON"

(SO WITH THAT EXPLAINED--I DO'T WANT ANY POSSIBILITY OF IT DOIN' IT ON IT'S OWN, BY SURPRISE)

NOW--THE REST OF MY PLAN

I WANT A MASTER (HIDDEN UNDER THE DASH) KILL SWITCH, WHICH WILL "KILL" MY EXPOSED SWITCHESTHIS WILL BE SORTA LIKE MY SECURITY/ ANTI-THEFT DEVICE

ON/ OR AT THE BOTTOM OF MY DASH HAVE 3 TOGGLE SWITCHES

2 ON/ OFF TOGGLE SWITCHES WITH THE AIRCRAFT TYPE "FLIP RED SAFETY COVERS" ----ONE WILL BE IGNITION---THE OTHER WILL BE ACCESSORIES....SEE LINK

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_toggle-switch-nos-nitrous-oxide-systems_17121331-p?searchTerm=toggle+switches

THE THIRD SWITCH I ADD WILL BE A SIMILAR LOOKING TOGGLE SWITCH WITHOUT THE SAFETY COVER---THIS ONE WILL BE A "MOMENTARY CONTACT" AND WILL BE MY "START BUTTON"

NOW THE BEST PART!

I DON'T HAVE TILT---I HAVE OBTAINED ANOTHER NEW IGNITION SWITCH ( THE ONE ON THE BACKSIDE OF THE DASH-CONTROLLED BY THE ROD FROM THE KEY SWITCHTILT AND NO TILT SWITCHES ARE CONFIGURED DIFFERENT FROM EACH OTHER

MY PLAN IS TO DO WHATEVER (TAKE IT APART/ MODIFY IT/ SOLDER) MY NEW SWITCHING WIRES TO IT OR FORGET THAT, AND USE "MALE (OR FEMALE) WIRE CONNECTORS AND CONNECT TO THE "CONNECTOR" THAT SNAPS ONTO THE IGNITION SWITCH

REGARDLESS---I WANT IT WORK BY HOOKING INTO THE ORIGINAL CONNECTIONS.....MODIFIED SWITCH.....OR MALE WIRE ENDS........................AND NOT CUT/ SPLICE ANYTHING, SO IT CAN QUICKLY BE TAKEN APART AND ABLE TO PLUG BACK IN ORIGINAL

I HAVE MOST OF THE STUFF I THINK I WILL NEED---I JUST AIN'T GOT MOTIVATED YET!

(I'VE YET TO FIX THE RUST UNDER MY DRIVER'S DOOR---I'VE HAD ALL OF THE STUFF FOR OVER A YEAR!!!)

----AND I WILL, IF YOU'VE ALREADY SEEN IN SOME OF MY ANSWERS---- MOST OF THE TIME, I DO TAKE PICS AND MAKE DIAGRAMS.........MAYBE YOUR "PUSH" WILL MAKE ME JUMP TO IT!

YOUR TURN

THE MEDIC



Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
Feb 6, 2013.