1977 Ford E-Series Van Starting problem

Tiny
NICKBALDWIN92
  • MEMBER
  • 1977 FORD E-SERIES VAN
Me and my step father have a 1977 rv with a 1 ton van motor which is the v8 2bl windsor ohv 5.8l ford motor in it an we had problems starting it so we replaced the starter motor, and relay switch then when we tried turning the rv over the starter would continuously turn over in the run position an would turn off if we turnt the key to the start position. So we then replaced the ignition switch an made sure all the connections were clean an still did the same thing. If you could help in any possible way id really appreciate it.
Sunday, August 18th, 2013 AT 8:57 PM

6 Replies

Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
  • MECHANIC
  • 11,004 POSTS
SEE IF THE INFO IN MY LINK MAKES SENSE OR HELPS

https://www.2carpros.com/questions/1979-ford-f-100-starter-stays-engaged-after-truck-starts

RETURN HERE, LET ME KNOW THE SITUATION, I'LL CONTINUE TO TRY TO ASSIST

THE MEDIC
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Sunday, August 18th, 2013 AT 9:35 PM
Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
  • MECHANIC
  • 11,004 POSTS
PIC OF "WILLY"s SOLENOID

THE MEDIC
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Sunday, August 18th, 2013 AT 9:41 PM
Tiny
NICKBALDWIN92
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
I know my step father couldnt remember how the solenoid was hooked up so if he conected the I wire to the s terminal and s wire to the I terminal is there a possibility that he might have ruined the solenoid? And in the picture above it looks like the positive and ground wired for the battery are connected to the same post on the left side of the solenoid. Is that how its suppose to be?
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Sunday, August 18th, 2013 AT 11:01 PM
Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
  • MECHANIC
  • 11,004 POSTS
.
IN THE SOLENOID PIC ABOVE IS FROM MY "WILLY" MY '46 WILLYS JEEP. MY POSITIVE CABLE IS "BLACK". AT THE TIME I INSTALLED IT, I HAD A BLACK ONE ON "THE SHELF"

THE STARTER CABLE IS BLACK TOO

MY BATTERY GROUND. ON BOTH JEEPS, GOES TO THE SIDE OF THE ENGINE, IN PICS 5) AND 6), "MR. JEEP'S" BATTERY GROUND IS. ABOVE THE FUEL PUMP AND ON THE "GREEN" HEAD. WILLY'S BATTERY GROUND IS JUST BEHIND THE STARTER
.

YOU CAN SWAP SIDES. NO PROBLEM!

THE POSITIVE BATTERY CABLE AND ALL ACCESSORIES GOES ON ONE SIDE

THE STARTER CABLE GOES ----"ALL BY ITSELF"---- ON THE OPPOSITE BIG POST

IT DOES NOT MATTER WHICH SIDE IS WHICH

I PREFER THE POSITIVE STUFF CLOSEST TO THE "S" TERMINAL

PIC 1) IS SHOWING THE PREFERRED METHOD TO "REMOTE START"

PIC 2) SHOWS USING A SCREWDRIVER ON "S" AND CONNECTING TO POSITIVE (FIELD EXPEDIENT REMOTE STARTING). HARD TO DO IF POSITIVE IS ON THE FURTHEST POST

"S" AND "I" MUST STAY IN THEIR CORRECT POSITIONS
.
.
.
I COPIED AND PASTED THIS PORTION FROM ANOTHER POST I ANSWERED

ON MINE, I HAVE SWITCHED THE ROLES OF THE TWO BIG POSTS. MOST OLDER FORDS ARE HOOKED LIKE YOU WILL SEE MINE

THE BIGGEST REASON I HAVE DONE BOTH OF MY JEEPS LIKE THIS IS. THE POSITIVE BATTERY CABLE WILL BE RIGHT BESIDE "S" TERMINAL ("3" AND "C" IN MY PICS)

HAVING THEM SIDE BY SIDE I CAN USE A SCREWDRIVER SHAFT TO CONNECT THEM FOR A TEMPORARY "BUMP" OF THE ENGINE IF A REMOTE STARTER SWITCH IS UNAVAILABLE

IF THE KEY IS ON---I CAN START IT THAT WAY

---THE STARTER CABLE IS "ALL BY ITSELF" ON ONE BIG POST

---THE POSITIVE BATTERY CABLE AND ALL "FEEDS" ARE SANDWICHED ON THE OTHER BIG POST

"S" AND "I" REMAIN THE SAME AND CANNOT BE SWITCHED (EXCEPT BY ACCIDENT---THEN IT WON'T DO NOTHIN'!)

THE POSITIVE BATTERY CABLE ("1") HOOKS TO THE LEFT SIDE OF THE SOLENOID (THE BIG POST, "A"). THE OTHER BIG POST ("B") IS FOR THE STARTER CABLE ONLY! ("2"), SORTA HARD TO SEE IN THE SHADOW

JUST FOR INFO--THE LITTLE STUD ON THE LEFT IS "S" TERMINAL ("C") TURNING THE KEY TO "START" MAKES THE IGNITION SWITCH SEND 12 VOLTS TO THE "S" TERMINAL, WHICH ACTIVATES THE SOLENOID---THEN THE STARTER TURNS OVER

THE OTHER LITTLE POST ON THE RIGHT, ("D"), IS "I" TERMINAL, IT SORTA BOOSTS THE COIL AT START-UP

NORMALLY "S" AND "I" ARE MOLDED INTO THE PLASTIC SO YOU WILL KNOW WHICH IS WHICH

FUSIBLE LINK ON A CJ AND OLDER FORDS (A SHORT WIRE ACTING AS A FUSE)----A FUSIBLE LINK IS A WIRE, BUT IT MELTS IF THE AMP DRAW GETS TOO HIGH---THEY COME IN DIFFERENT AMP RATINGS. MOST OF THE TIME IT'S THE LAST LINE OF DEFENSE IF A SHORT HAPPENS

THEY ARE USUALLY LOCATED IN THE SYSTEM WHERE THE WIRE WOULD START "COOKING" 1ST, SHOULD IT OVERHEAT, OFFERING THE BEST PROTECTION, TO PREVENT MASSIVE WIRE HARNESS MELTAGE OR A FIRE. IN THE CASE OF MY JEEPS, AT THE BEGINNING, WHERE THE POWER ORIGINATES

ON THE FORD SYSTEM (MY JEEP TOO) THE POSITIVE BATTERY CABLE ("1") IS PIGGYBACKED ON TO OTHER WIRES ON THE SOLENOID (A) RIGHT HERE AT "THIS POINT", THE ENTIRE JEEP GETS ALL POWER INSIDE AND OUT

THE SOLENOID IN THE PICS BELONGS TO MY 1946 WILLYS JEEP, AND MY '77 ---I KINDA MIMICKED MUCH OF THE WAY MY 1977 CJ5 WAS WIRED, WHEN I MODERNIZED IT'S WIRING

"3" GOES TO MY FUSE BOX (POWERS EVERYTHING ON MY '46)

"4" GOES TO MY ALTERNATOR ---AGAIN ON MY '46

BOTH "3" AND "4" ARE FUSIBLE LINKS. SOME HAVE MARKINGS SUCH AS "3"---OTHERS ARE NOT MARKED, SUCH AS "4"

AS FAR AS FUSIBLE LINK SIZES, MANY ARE REFERRED TO BY "GAUGE"

SOME DON'T LOOK NOTHIN' LIKE THESE ON OTHER CARS. THE NEW STUFF HAS LITTLE BOXES WITH A SEE-THRU WINDOW WITH A COPPER/ SOLDER JOINT INSIDE

YOU CAN SEE THE "HEAT SHRINK" WHERE I TIED INTO "REAL WIRES"

THERE ARE 3 WAYS I CAN THINK OF TO TEST CJ FUSIBLE LINKS

1ST METHOD IS: IT'S OBVIOUSLY BURNED OR DISTORTED.

2ND METHOD IS A CONTINUITY TEST, WITH YOUR VOLTMETER PROBES ON EITHER SIDE

THE LAST AND EZist TO DO IS, TUG ON THE FUSIBLE LINK, IF IT FEELS STOUT, IT'S PROBABLY GOOD---IF YOU PULL ON IT AND IT THE INSULATION STRETCHES OUT LIKE A RUBBER BAND, THE WIRE IS FRIED. BUT DID IT'S JOB IN PROTECTING THE CIRCUIT!

KEEP THIS IN MIND."WHY DID IT MELT/ BLOW?" FIX THE PROBLEM. DON'T JUST "STRAIGHT WIRE" IT BACK TOGETHER WITHOUT A FUSIBLE LINK. THIS IS JUST ASKING FOR SOMETHING BAD TO HAPPEN!

THE MEDIC
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Monday, August 19th, 2013 AT 8:58 PM
Tiny
NICKBALDWIN92
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
In the rv on the opposite side of the rv is a marine battery with a solenoid connected to it. One of the black wires from the starter solenoid runs along the top of the firewall all the way over to the marine solenoid. Is this wire suppose to be connected on the left of the starter solenoid along with the positive battery cable? If we hook that wire to the left side of the starter solenoid with the positive battery cable nothing happens whether the s and I wires are connected to the right or wrong terminal but if we connect the wire that runs to the marine battery onto the starter solenoid on the right side with the starter wire the rv will constantly turn over in the run/on position. This problem seems to get more confusing an frustrating by the minute. Thanks for the help
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Monday, August 19th, 2013 AT 11:09 PM
Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
  • MECHANIC
  • 11,004 POSTS
OK BOSS WANNA HELP YOU!

CAN YOU "DRAW" THE WIRES/ COMPONENTS----LABEL THE COLORSSHOW WHERE THE CONNECT TO WHAT. AT MINIMUM, TELL ME HOW BIG THE WIRES ARE. WHAT THE SOLENOIDS ARE SUPPOSED TO DO. THEN TAKE A REALLY GOOD PIC OF YOUR DIAGRAM AND POST IT!

SOMETHING ELSE THAT MIGHT HELP

GIMME THE EXACT NOMENCLATURE OF THE VEHICLE, ENGINE SIZE, WHAT "FRAME" IT MIGHT BE ON EVEN A PIC OF THE DATA PLATE(S) MIGHT AID ME IN FINDING A WIRING DIAGRAM. THIS BEING A "RV", IT HAS CRAP ON IT THAT BASE VEHICLES DON'T, I'M SORTA LOST IN "MITCHELL I", LOOKING THIS UP

THE MEDIC
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Tuesday, August 20th, 2013 AT 7:48 PM

Please login or register to post a reply.

Sponsored links