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Volkswagen
Cabriolet Repair Questions and Answers
Question:
1989 Volkswagen Cabriolet mileage:130,000. Manual shift.
Frequently after driving in stop and go traffic or after
prolonged periods of driving, the fuel pump begins to
whine noisily. Shortly after that, the front end jolts
violently a couple of seconds after being after being
shifted into another gear. Frequently after that, the
engine stalls. The car starts easily after it stalls but
within a minute I'm in the same boat. The fuel pump has
been replaced twice on the advice of my mechanic and the
engine mounts have also been replaced but I still get
the same symptoms -- whining loudly before the jolting
and stalling. The whining and stalling leads me to
believe it's a fuel pump problem but the front end
jolting makes me think I may have to replace the clutch
also. Any suggestions?
Answer:
Your car should be equipped with a second fuel pump that
is located inside the fuel tank. This pump pushes the
fuel to the main fuel pump. If the pump in the tank
fails, it will cause the problem you described.
Question: 2000 Volkswagen Cabriolet
mileage 82,000. I started the engine and noticed
that the brake light and ABS light remained on and
illuminated. I continued to drive approximately one mile
when I also noticed that the air conditioner would not
work. There was no power with the A/C of any kind. The
blowers didn't work and it was if the car had no power
for the switches to work. I immediately pulled the car
over to the side of the road. As soon as the car was
stopped and in park the car completely shut down and
stalled. I immediately started the car again and the
lights, this time, did not come on and the air
conditioner worked. I made a note to myself to bring it
to the dealership for a valuation and possible repairs.
Over the period of 5 days between the time it first
happened and the day I was able to make an appointment
the same problem occurred approximately 6-8 more times.
I have noted that when this happens it can be a various
times during the day both when the car engine is cold
and hot. Two days ago, I had the vehicle in for repairs
at the dealership. I was informed that there was nothing
wrong with the vehicle nor nothing they could find wrong
with it. I was advised to bring the vehicle back if I
notice the problem again. Well, I informed the service
manager that was hard to do as when the problem occurs
the engine stalls. After picking up my car two days ago,
the problem did occur again. This time, upon starting
the engine I noticed the lights on yet again with now
power for the A/C. As I was about to take it back to the
dealership, I put the car in reverse and attempted to
drive when the car stalled. I started the car again, the
lights went off, and the car appeared fine. According to
the Volkswagen dealership, service department there is
nothing wrong with my 2000 Volkswagen Cabriole or
nothing they can locate and repair. I'm not sure whether
or not you have any information on Volkswagen but if you
do, I would greatly appreciate any information you can
provide.
Answer: Intermittent Electrical
problems are nightmares to trouble shoot. Your problem
could be cause by a failing main power relay, poor
ground connections, loose power wire connections, or a
faulty battery or alternator. Also, check the wiring
looms for damage.
Question:
1990 Volkswagen Cabriolet mileage: 74,000.
Rough idle and stumble on acceleration. Engine
idles best when warming (not perfect), but becomes worse
a full warm up. At normal operating temperature,
there is an associated popping perhaps pinging sound
with the poor idle; also, one tends to think engine
could be missing at idle. Engine appears to run
fine at or above idle (above approx. 1200 to 1500 RPM).
Once going, the car runs nicely at highway speeds.
Things that have been replaced trying to correct the
problem are: Distributor (intermittent miss was detected
from old dist. on engine analyzer), cap, rotor, wires,
plugs, fuel filter, fuel pressure regulator, oxygen
sensor, water coolant temperature sensor, and air
filter. Timing, and idle adjustments (idle bypass
adjustments) have been made a number of times. I
would like to add that I think I hear an exhaust leak
(ex. manifold). The noise is most audible when
starting the engine when it is cold. Also, I would
like to add that I have run injector cleaner in three
tanks of gas. Even sprayed considerable
cleaner in the throttle body to cleanse the intake area
(at times I thought this showed idle improvement).
Any ideas would be appreciated. At this point, I
am wondering if a slight exhaust manifold leak is
causing oxygen sensor to send error signal to computer.
I have gone full circle a couple times so I would
appreciate your thoughts.
Answer: Check the compression
and check for vacuum leaks. Also, check for a flat
cam. The exhaust leak you have when your car is
cold is probably caused by a cracked exhaust manifold.
We do not think this would cause the oxygen sensor error
signal.
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