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Toyota Corolla
Repair Questions and Answers

Question: 1992 Toyota
Corolla mileage: 120,000. Brake lights do not
work. Checked fuses and bulbs. All are O.K.
I am wondering if it might be the switch.
The adjustment on the switch is fine. I checked
the switch, and it has continuity between 2 prongs with
the switch depressed, and continuity between the other
two posts when the switch is depressed. I have not
been able to yet confirm that I have power to the switch
but I will try to check that today. The car
has cruise control and is an automatic. The cruise
control is not working either and I am wondering if this
may have something to do with the brake lights not
working. However, the cruise control has not
worked for a few months and the brake light problem just
started this week. I have 3 brake lights, 2 in the
rear and one high-mounted light on the rear deck.
The high- mounted light uses an 1156 bulb and of course,
the rear brake lights use 1157's. As indicated
above, all bulbs and fuses have been checked, replaced,
etc. Please help!
Answer:
There is a controller for the brake lights in the trunk.
It sounds like yours is probably failing.
Hopefully, replacing it will fix your problem.
Question:
1991 Toyota Corolla mileage: 123,000. When
started after a short stop, "check engine" light would
light up, engine would sputter, then stall. After that,
engine will crank but will not startt. Car
can be normally started after an hour-long stop.
The oddest thing is that that never happens when gas
tank is topped off OR has less that half tank of gas.
My mechanic had it twice. Engine computer does not
retain any error codes. Spark plugs, wires and
distributor cap where replaced at 120K tune-ups.
Any help will be appreciated!
Answer:
Your stalling problem may be cause by the fuel pump.
Replacing it and the fuel filter should fix your
problem.
Question:
1988 Toyota Corolla GT-S Coupe 1.6L mileage: 120,000.
Is there a way to repair a speedometer? My speedometer
makes a whirring noise, which is linked to the actual
speed of the car. This occurs mostly when it's
cold, but the speedometer sometimes reads normal speeds,
and sometimes it shoots up to and stays about 1.5 to 2
times actual speed, and varies. It appears to
still be sort of working other times, and does not
always make noise. Note: the odometer works
correctly and seems to still be accurate. Is it
possible to replace or repair just the speedometer?
How would I go about this? Or do I just replace
the whole instrument panel containing the speedometer?
Answer:
The problem that you are having is with the
speedometer. We are almost sure that you can
buy the speedometer separately – check with Toyota to be
sure.
Question:
1998 Toyota Corolla mileage: 127,000. I
recently purchased a Toyota Corolla for my daughter.
It now has a problem with the brakes, the pedal seems
fine most of the time but occasionally it slowly fades
almost to the floor...it stops fine but this is of
definite concern. The fluid level is fine, there
are no visible signs of leakage at the calipers, wheel
cylinders, lines, and master cylinder.... my guess is
the master cylinder needs to be replaced...would this be
your best guess as well?
Answer:
Replacing the master cylinder should solve your
problems.
Question: 1991 Toyota
Corolla mileage: 136,000. My dad bought this
car when it was new. He gave it to me back in April of
this year when I got a new job that has required me to
drive about 800 miles a week. So far, I have taken
extremely good care of this car with no problems.
However, about a month ago I noticed a lagging in the
car when I accelerated. Then little by little it
got progressively worse. I figured that since I
have put over 30,000 miles on this car in a relatively
short time my fuel filter must be clogged. I
replaced this myself over the weekend and it did not
help at all. This sputtering and lagging only
happens when I accelerated. So, when I get
to cruising speed it does not happen. Unless of
course I pass someone. My dad told me that my fuel
injection system might be clogged and that I should get
it power cleaned at a repair shop. So right now,
that is where my car is. THEN my dad tells me he
talked with his neighbor who is a mechanic and HE says
that it sounds like a classic example of my fuel pump
going out! Of course, I will find out for sure
when they give me a call this afternoon. If it is
the fuel pump, the garage told me that it will cost
about $200 to fix because the pump is on top of the fuel
tank and it must be removed to get to it. So, is
it possible for me and my dad to fix this fuel pump
ourselves? We have worked on our own cars for
years but now I live so far away in an apartment in a
big city so it isn't so easy. If it doesn't
require any special tools and we both can do it, where
do I get diagrams that will help us do this? This
same question also applies to my timing belt which is
due to be replaced now since I don't want to have to
deal with it brakes on me when I'm half way between
Shreveport and Dallas. I'm sorry this is so long
but I have so many questions and so little time.
Thank you very much guys.
Answer:
Removing the fuel tank and pump does have a fire risk,
but is not difficult to do. Your fuel pump may not
be the problem. Check the catalytic converter to
make sure it is not “plugged” or restricted. Your
car is equipped with a computer controlled engine
management system. An independent auto service
center can scan your computer for fault or error codes.
The information should pinpoint the mal functioning
components. Also, if you have not replaced a
timing belt before, be aware that if done incorrectly,
sever engine damage may result. We are sorry, but
due to the large volume of questions we receive, we do
not have time to print, scan and email diagrams. A
Mitchell or Chilton auto repair manual will have
diagrams showing you what you need.
Click here to find out more
Question:
1988 Toyota Corolla l mileage: 157,000. How hard is
it to change the head gasket. I know it the head gasket
because I’m losing oil and water.
Answer:
Changing the head gasket on your car is a very
difficult job to do. If done incorrectly,
you can easily cause engine damage. When a head
gasket is replaced, have the head checked for cracks.
Question:
1988 Toyota corolla mileage: 190,000. Is it
possible to change the tie rod without changing entire
rack and pinion?
Answer:
Yes it is.
Question:
1991 Toyota Corolla mileage: 156,000. When I
start my car, and when I accelerate through turns, it
makes a loud, screeching, squealing sound. I've
replaced the power steering pump and the belt, and I
really have no idea at this point what could be causing
the sound. Whatever suggestions you could give would be
greatly appreciated. Thanks.
Answer:
You may have a loose wheel bearing, brakes
metal-to-metal or poor quality power steering belt.
Question: 1988 Toyota Corolla mileage: 234,550. My car
started running hotter than normal, so I was going to
check and replace the thermostat. Instead my husband was
kind enough to change it for me, the thermostat was not
functioning. It still is running hotter than usual and I
noticed that the electric fan is not coming on. I
checked the fan and it works. I have changed the fan
relay #1 and the temperature switch. The fan is still
not coming on. Today I discovered that the return hose
to the radiator from the thermostat housing is still
cold while the engine hose is hot and the temperature
gauge agrees. What did he do to my car? What
should I do/check next?
Answer: We are
betting the thermostat is installed backward. Although,
a partially plugged radiator may be causing your
problem. If the thermostat is not installed backward,
replacing the radiator would solve your problem. They
are very inexpensive and easy to install.
Question: 1992 Toyota Corolla mileage: 150,000. The
heating/air conditioning system shuts down when it is in
full throttle. You place the system in full throttle,
then if you turn the engine off, and turn it back on,
the system is shut down and remains shut down. Only
after several hours of the engine being turned off, and
then when you turn it on, does the heating/air
conditioning work.
Answer: Check
for vacuum hoses that may be cracked or a loose
connection. Another source of the leak may be the vacuum
switch on the back of the heater/air condition control
on the dash. Somewhere in the vacuum system is a check
valve that may have failed. It is usually part of the
vacuum reservoir tank.
Question: 1990 Toyota Corolla mileage: 200,000. In the morning or
after the car has been sitting for a long time initially
the car runs very rough, spitting and sputtering along
until it runs for a while and then it smoothes out and
runs fine. I replaced the fuel filter and spark plugs
but those didn't help much. I took the air filter out
briefly to see if that was the problem and it still runs
rough. Could this be the fuel pump or something else?
Any Suggestions?
Answer: You may have a faulty temperature sensor that supplies
information to the PCM (computer). A fuel pump pressure
test would be a good idea also.
Question: 1995
Toyota Corolla mileage:125,000, runs great, but it
use to belong to my mother, I just bought it 3 weeks
ago. The problem lies with the front brakes. They were
done by a so-called friend...they are fine but,
sometimes I feel a grinding sound. I put it on the rack.
The rotors looks good, semi-metallic pads look good
although kind of thick. I don’t understand it. I even
get a little squeaking now and then. Mom told me they
were replaced about 4 months ago but this does not seem
right. Others have told me that the thickness of an
aftermarket pad can do this, but I don’t understand it.
Is it worth my time to slap some new pads on this puppy,
possibly check the rotors to see if they are warped?
Help!!
Answer: Replacing
the rotors and replacing the brake pads will fix the
problem you describe. The old pads are contoured to the
old rotor surface and the rotors may be warped as well.
Factory replacement parts should be used rather than
aftermarket parts that are not engineered as well.
Question: 1987
Toyota Corolla engine. It starts to steam (from
overflow hose) before the engine is normal temperature.
When up to temperature the fan does not kick on (I
understand that this could be a separate problem). The
result is lose of coolant. Is the steam normal or is the
water not circulating. I know the fan could be a fuse or
sensor problem.
Answer: Check the cooling system thermostat to verify it opens
at approximately 190 degrees F. (A pan of hot water on
stove works well.) Another cause may be a blown head
gasket. Once you get the cooling system working, the
electric radiator fan may work okay.

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