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Automobile / Toyota / Corolla-1 / Corolla-2

Toyota Corolla Repair Questions and Answers


Question:  1992 Toyota Corolla  mileage: 120,000.  Brake lights do not work.  Checked fuses and bulbs.  All are O.K.   I am wondering if it might be the switch.   The adjustment on the switch is fine.  I checked the switch, and it has continuity between 2 prongs with the switch depressed, and continuity between the other two posts when the switch is depressed.  I have not been able to yet confirm that I have power to the switch but I will try to check that today.   The car has cruise control and is an automatic.  The cruise control is not working either and I am wondering if this may have something to do with the brake lights not working.  However, the cruise control has not worked for a few months and the brake light problem just started this week.  I have 3 brake lights, 2 in the rear and one high-mounted light on the rear deck.  The high- mounted light uses an 1156 bulb and of course, the rear brake lights use 1157's.  As indicated above, all bulbs and fuses have been checked, replaced, etc.  Please help!

Answer:    There is a controller for the brake lights in the trunk.  It sounds like yours is probably failing.  Hopefully, replacing it will fix your problem.



Question:  1991 Toyota Corolla  mileage: 123,000.  When started after a short stop, "check engine" light would light up, engine would sputter, then stall. After that, engine will crank but will not startt.   Car can be normally started after an hour-long stop.  The oddest thing is that that never happens when gas tank is topped off OR has less that half tank of gas.   My mechanic had it twice.  Engine computer does not retain any error codes.  Spark plugs, wires and distributor cap where replaced at 120K tune-ups.  Any help will be appreciated!

Answer:   Your stalling problem may be cause by the fuel pump.  Replacing it and the fuel filter should fix your problem.


Question:  1988 Toyota Corolla GT-S Coupe 1.6L mileage: 120,000.  Is there a way to repair a speedometer? My speedometer makes a whirring noise, which is linked to the actual speed of the car.  This occurs mostly when it's cold, but the speedometer sometimes reads normal speeds, and sometimes it shoots up to and stays about 1.5 to 2 times actual speed, and varies.  It appears to still be sort of working other times, and does not always make noise.  Note: the odometer works correctly and seems to still be accurate.  Is it possible to replace or repair just the speedometer?  How would I go about this?  Or do I just replace the whole instrument panel containing the speedometer?

Answer:   The problem that you are having is with the speedometer.   We are almost sure that you can buy the speedometer separately – check with Toyota to be sure.


Question:  1998 Toyota Corolla  mileage: 127,000.  I recently purchased a Toyota Corolla for my daughter.  It now has a problem with the brakes, the pedal seems fine most of the time but occasionally it slowly fades almost to the floor...it stops fine but this is of definite concern.  The fluid level is fine, there are no visible signs of leakage at the calipers, wheel cylinders, lines, and master cylinder.... my guess is the master cylinder needs to be replaced...would this be your best guess as well?

Answer:   Replacing the master cylinder should solve your problems.


Question:  1991 Toyota Corolla  mileage: 136,000.  My dad bought this car when it was new. He gave it to me back in April of this year when I got a new job that has required me to drive about 800 miles a week.  So far, I have taken extremely good care of this car with no problems.  However, about a month ago I noticed a lagging in the car when I accelerated.  Then little by little it got progressively worse.  I figured that since I have put over 30,000 miles on this car in a relatively short time my fuel filter must be clogged.  I replaced this myself over the weekend and it did not help at all.  This sputtering and lagging only happens when I accelerated.   So, when I get to cruising speed it does not happen.  Unless of course I pass someone.  My dad told me that my fuel injection system might be clogged and that I should get it power cleaned at a repair shop.  So right now, that is where my car is.  THEN my dad tells me he talked with his neighbor who is a mechanic and HE says that it sounds like a classic example of my fuel pump going out!  Of course, I will find out for sure when they give me a call this afternoon.  If it is the fuel pump, the garage told me that it will cost about $200 to fix because the pump is on top of the fuel tank and it must be removed to get to it.  So, is it possible for me and my dad to fix this fuel pump ourselves?  We have worked on our own cars for years but now I live so far away in an apartment in a big city so it isn't so easy.  If it doesn't require any special tools and we both can do it, where do I get diagrams that will help us do this?  This same question also applies to my timing belt which is due to be replaced now since I don't want to have to deal with it brakes on me when I'm half way between Shreveport and Dallas.  I'm sorry this is so long but I have so many questions and so little time.  Thank you very much guys.   

Answer:   Removing the fuel tank and pump does have a fire risk, but is not difficult to do.  Your fuel pump may not be the problem.  Check the catalytic converter to make sure it is not “plugged” or restricted.  Your car is equipped with a computer controlled engine management system.  An independent auto service center can scan your computer for fault or error codes.  The information should pinpoint the mal functioning components.   Also, if you have not replaced a timing belt before, be aware that if done incorrectly, sever engine damage may result.  We are sorry, but due to the large volume of questions we receive, we do not have time to print, scan and email diagrams.  A Mitchell or Chilton auto repair manual will have diagrams showing you what you need. Click here to find out more


Question:  1988 Toyota Corolla l mileage: 157,000.  How hard is it to change the head gasket. I know it the head gasket because I’m losing oil and water.

Answer:   Changing the head gasket on your car is a very difficult job to do.   If done incorrectly, you can easily cause engine damage.  When a head gasket is replaced, have the head checked for cracks.


Question:  1988 Toyota corolla  mileage: 190,000.  Is it possible to change the tie rod without changing entire rack and pinion?

Answer:   Yes it is.


Question:  1991 Toyota Corolla  mileage: 156,000.  When I start my car, and when I accelerate through turns, it makes a loud, screeching, squealing sound.  I've replaced the power steering pump and the belt, and I really have no idea at this point what could be causing the sound. Whatever suggestions you could give would be greatly appreciated.   Thanks.

Answer:   You may have a loose wheel bearing, brakes metal-to-metal or poor quality power steering belt.


Question:  1988 Toyota Corolla  mileage: 234,550. My car started running hotter than normal, so I was going to check and replace the thermostat. Instead my husband was kind enough to change it for me, the thermostat was not functioning. It still is running hotter than usual and I noticed that the electric fan is not coming on. I checked the fan and it works. I have changed the fan relay #1 and the temperature switch. The fan is still not coming on. Today I discovered that the return hose to the radiator from the thermostat housing is still cold while the engine hose is hot and the temperature gauge agrees. What did he do to my car?  What should I do/check next?

Answer:  We are betting the thermostat is installed backward. Although, a partially plugged radiator may be causing your problem. If the thermostat is not installed backward, replacing the radiator would solve your problem. They are very inexpensive and easy to install.


Question:  1992 Toyota Corolla  mileage: 150,000. The heating/air conditioning system shuts down when it is in full throttle. You place the system in full throttle, then if you turn the engine off, and turn it back on, the system is shut down and remains shut down. Only after several hours of the engine being turned off, and then when you turn it on, does the heating/air conditioning work.

Answer: Check for vacuum hoses that may be cracked or a loose connection. Another source of the leak may be the vacuum switch on the back of the heater/air condition control on the dash. Somewhere in the vacuum system is a check valve that may have failed. It is usually part of the vacuum reservoir tank.



Question:  1990 Toyota Corolla mileage: 200,000. In the morning or after the car has been sitting for a long time initially the car runs very rough, spitting and sputtering along until it runs for a while and then it smoothes out and runs fine. I replaced the fuel filter and spark plugs but those didn't help much. I took the air filter out briefly to see if that was the problem and it still runs rough. Could this be the fuel pump or something else? Any Suggestions?

Answer:  You may have a faulty temperature sensor that supplies information to the PCM (computer). A fuel pump pressure test would be a good idea also.


Question: 1995 Toyota Corolla  mileage:125,000, runs great, but it use to belong to my mother, I just bought it 3 weeks ago. The problem lies with the front brakes. They were done by a so-called friend...they are fine but, sometimes I feel a grinding sound. I put it on the rack. The rotors looks good, semi-metallic pads look good although kind of thick. I don’t understand it. I even get a little squeaking now and then. Mom told me they were replaced about 4 months ago but this does not seem right. Others have told me that the thickness of an aftermarket pad can do this, but I don’t understand it. Is it worth my time to slap some new pads on this puppy, possibly check the rotors to see if they are warped? Help!!

Answer:  Replacing the rotors and replacing the brake pads will fix the problem you describe. The old pads are contoured to the old rotor surface and the rotors may be warped as well. Factory replacement parts should be used rather than aftermarket parts that are not engineered as well.


Question: 1987 Toyota Corolla  engine. It starts to steam (from overflow hose) before the engine is normal temperature. When up to temperature the fan does not kick on (I understand that this could be a separate problem). The result is lose of coolant. Is the steam normal or is the water not circulating. I know the fan could be a fuse or sensor problem.

Answer:  Check the cooling system thermostat to verify it opens at approximately 190 degrees F. (A pan of hot water on stove works well.) Another cause may be a blown head gasket. Once you get the cooling system working, the electric radiator fan may work okay.


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