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Automobile / Toyota / 4 Runner

Toyota 4 Runner Repair Questions and Answers


Question: 1997 Toyota 4 Runner mileage 185,000. I noticed that the truck had lost some power, so I did the plugs, wires, air filter and fuel filter, truck is super responsive and revs up clean....definitely a noticeable difference. I also had the timing belt done back at the recommended 90K or whatever it was; not sure off hand but it is about due for another timing belt. Anyway it pulls strong, but seems to have some very minor break down on the top end...perhaps about 4500 rpm or so. It is faint but as I build and race cars (Camaro's) I notice it. You can hear the motor rev and it does accelerate but not as strong as it should...almost sounds as if it is bogging a little, but seems to be more of a breaking down (loss of spark) than anything else. I am thinking it is coil related? The truck has three coil packs one fires one plug on one bank as well as the other on the other bank. The truck is completely drivable, does not have any skips or misses, however seems to have some break down as mentioned. Any thoughts are greatly appreciated...I drive the car pretty easy but noticed the problem when goosing it onto the highway. The car does not pull any codes.

Answer: The first thing to do is do a compression check. If compression is okay, you may have either a bad coil pack, or mass air-flow sensor or fuel pump. Try a new coil pack first. If this does not cure your problem, move on down to the mass air-flow sensor and finally the fuel pump.



Question: 1996 Toyota 4 Runner mileage: 102,000. I know the early 90's 4 Runner had problems with the exhaust valves and cylinder head gaskets. How would I be able to tell if either one was malfunctioning?

Answer: A compression check and cylinder leak-down test should tell you the condition of your engine.


Question: 1995 Toyota 4 Runner mileage: 138,000. Last winter I started having problems with the engine running rough. Symptoms were usually - run fine at first then 3-4 miles later start running rough (esp between 45-50 mph) Would run better if speed changed to higher or lower. Repair shop over several visits did the following: tune up with new plugs, flushed fuel injection system, Oxygen sensor replaced, EGR valve replaced, new distributor cap, new plug wires. Symptoms continued and were worse thru winter with colder weather. Note: symptoms either would disappear or were milder with warmer weather. Not a lot of missing during the summer except when cold, damp, rainy. Now we are back to winter and symptoms are back and are worse. Runs rough most of the time when I start it up. Sometimes it smoothes out in 4-5 miles, sometimes not. Sometimes when I start engine it runs smooth but starts running rough in about 3-4 miles. And then continues rough for rest of drive. Last winter seemed cold related and speed related. Now can run rough at any speed, still worse when cold but also rough if 45 degrees or higher. When the engine is running rough, acceleration is extremely bad. Note: the tachometer is stable when running rough. We are tired of replacing parts.

Answer: The first thing we would do is a compression check and carefully examine each of the spark plugs as they are removed to check for oil fouling. If the compression is okay, scan the computer and read the data stream to the computer.


Question: 1994 Toyota 4 Runner  mileage: 174,000. My 4-Runner has started to miss/stumble when accelerating, doesn't seem to miss/stumble once you reach a constant speed, doesn't miss/skip when idling, just had it tuned up not to long ago (it should not need another one this soon) when going up hills there is a strong smell like sulfur/rotten eggs, I think it's my catalytic converter, short of replacing it is there anyway to unplug one? It also leaks oil from front cover could the clogged converter cause this oil leak? Also I have had my exhaust welded several times seems to keep getting holes in it always before the catalytic converter, could that be due to a plugged catalytic converter? What would be a reasonable cost to replace converter? Ballpark figure, can I buy a used catalytic converter from the junkyard? Is there a way for my mechanic to check for plugged catalytic converter without drilling a hole in exhaust? Probably wouldn't have to drill a hole since it already has one! Please help, my husband says it isn't the catalytic converter, could it just be a problem with fuel mixture, it is fuel injected. Jackie

Answer: It appears from what you have told us that your engine is running rich. We would bet your gas mileage is very low. You may have a bad oxygen or coolant sensor or a partially plugged catalytic converter.


Question: 1994 Toyota 4 Runner mileage: 151,000. Took my 4 runner to the Toyota dealer to change the timing belt. It was changed before at 65k it now has 151k. They ran into a problem. There is a pulley, which is bolted onto the crankshaft. They turn the bolt 3 times and said it should have broken free and been able to hand turn. The said that they can try to cut the bolt off and remove the pulley to see what's going on behind there. But, they said I would most likely need a new engine bottom. Roughly $3-5k job. Does this sound right?

Answer: It sounds as if the threads that hold the bolt to the bottom pulley on the crankshaft are stripped. When the belt was changed at 65,000 miles it may have been over-tightened, which could damage the threads. What we would do is remove the radiator and the grill to gain clear access to the front of the engine. Then we'd remove the bolt in question. If it broke off, we would drill it out and tap the end of the crankshaft. If the threads were damaged beyond repair, we would drill and tap it out to the next size larger. This would cost considerably less that $3000.00, more like a couple hundred dollars for the extra work.


Question: 1995 Toyota 4 Runner  mileage: 122,000. Occasional loss of power ending in stall. Roadside fix was to move + battery terminal leads resulting in restoration of power. I later changed terminal leads as well as cleaned the virtually corrosion free battery leads. In the process I also took a volt meter to all fuseable links under hood and in the interior to be sure all points where getting juice. To no avail, I still have the same deal. The bad part is that now I have a new prob. no brake lights thus enabling me to shift from "p" to anything. HAYNES book has no pointers in trouble shooting on this nor do they have a fuse panel configuration diagram. "Owners book you say." I'm the 2nd owner and never had any. "Should be diagramed on the interior fuse panel door." I imagine the owner's book and the fuse door are in the same place, with the 1st owner whoever that might be. I have scanned the web looking for the fuse diagram but no luck. I wonder if these prob. are one in the same. The stalling prob. seems to be activated by applying brakes, no sounds of engine failure no sputtering no chugging. At night when headlamps are on, I will apply brakes if the truck doesn't have a power failure and stall, the lights flicker and dim slightly.

Answer: From what you tell us, it sounds like you may be having trouble with your charging system. Have your battery load tested and check the alternator output for voltage and amperage. Also, check your electrical system for drains with the engine off. Visit the repair manuals page to find out more about online manuals.


Question: 1993 4 Runner  mileage: 91,000.   After running an hour or so on a long trip the transmission oil light comes on showing it is overheating.  Pull over and let it idle until cool down, but it will do it again unless speed held under sixty.  Had transmission flushed, but it keeps on happening.  Suggestions for fixing the problem most welcome.

Answer: Check to be sure that the transmission goes into overdrive and the converter locks up at highway speeds.   With the converter locked, the transmission generates very little heat.  If this checks okay, you may want to consider adding a secondary transmission cooler.


Question:1986 Toyota 4 Runner SR5 2.4 litre engine with approximately 248,000 miles.   I try to do a lot of the maintenance myself by referencing my most prized car repair possession- "How to keep your Toyota alive for the complete idiot.”  It has saved me an armor truckload of money.  Anyway, when I cold start her, the fan sounds as if it is loose and making rattling noises until I get it on the road, eventually eliminating the sound.  Could this be the sign of the fan clutch needing replacing?  Appreciate any advice guys.

Answer: We think that you may be right – it could be the fan clutch.  With the engine off, and cold, grab a hold of the fan blade and move it back and forth to see if the is any movement in the fan clutch.  If there is, replacing the fan clutch should fix your problem.



Question:  1991 Toyota 4 Runner 22-re mileage: 192,000.  Having some trouble with an exhaust leak.... found some epoxy stuff that would hold to 600 degrees.  Well that is all fine and dandy except that the stuff turned to dust when the exhaust got hot.  So...what do you recommend for a solution to the exhaust leak?

Answer: Replacing the leaking exhaust pipe should solve your problem.


Question:1997 Toyota 4 Runner SR5 mileage: 143,000.  My rear brakes are squeaking and I am assuming that the pads just need changing.  A shop in the area quoted me over $100 for the repair, but the parts should only cost me about $40-$50 at a local auto parts store.  I would like to repair them at home, but am a little worried because my vehicle is a 4WD vehicle.  Does this make any difference when replacing the brake pads?  Are there any specific things I should look for when doing this repair (my boyfriend will be helping and he has replaced pads on other vehicles before)?  Any help is appreciated!

Answer: Replacing the brake pads on your car would be about the same replacing them on  most other cars.


Question:  1986 Toyota 4 Runner   mileage: 120,150.  How to be certain to not over torque valve cover after replacing gasket when not using torque wrench?  I have attentively evenly tightened the cap screws, but they are not fully compressing the grommets under the cap screw.  The old grommet rubber was brittle, yet the cap screws were much more loose compared to my work.  Engine has not yet been started/warmed, yet I don't want to warp the valve cover.  How can I be more accurate and not damage a good cover?  Thanks for your help.

Answer: To be done correctly, a torque wrench should be used.


Question:2000 Toyota 4Runner SR5 78K 3.4L 4X4 After a recent brake job the orange Daytime Running Lights won't come on when the parking brake is released. I do not have Fog lamps, but I know these lights used to come on when that lever was released. Is there a sensor or switch that is out of alignment? If so where is the thing located?

Answer: Start by checking related fuses and 2 relays, Main relay-behind L/side of dash, right of steering column. Relay #4 Behind right of dash


Question: 1994 Toyota 4Runner mileage: 221,000  I have a 94 4runner with 221,000 miles with a 22re motor and it overheats at 60mph and above? truck has new thermostat, water pump, fan clutch, fan belts, new radiator cap, and new coolant also has new head gasket.


Answer: Try replacing the thermostat, if that is not it do the following below:

Have it block and pressure tested-do the block first to pinpoint a combustion leaking into the cooling system or a gas analyzer to sniff for hydrocarbons at the radiator fill neck.

Pressure test: do not do a pressure test if there's leakage at the head gasket this might cause coolant to leak into the cylinders and lock it up or bend a connecting rod if cranked thereafter. The head gasket should be repaired before doing the pressure test.

If the block and pressure test passes check the following: thermostat, pressure test the radiator cap, clogged radiator, fan clutch, fan relay, radiator electrical fan, collapsed hoses, water pump.


Question: 1988 Toyota 4Runner mileage: 155,000 My 1988 Toyota 4 runner seems to be overcharging. I replaced the alternator with a new one and it seems to be overcharging and getting hot. Does this particular alternator have a built in regulator or is there a separate external regulator like the old Fords. I would greatly appreciate any info you can give me


Answer: Your 4Runner has an IVR (internal voltage regulator)


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