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Question:  1993 Pontiac Sunbird LE v6 mileage: 59,000.  After filling the tank recently the engine speed became erratic:  it would race while driving (tach at 1800 forcing me to keep my foot on the brake in a 25 mph zone); when braking for a turn it would vary wildly between a couple hundred and 1500 rpm; if breaking quickly rpm would fall to under 400, would sputter and stall unless I would two-foot.  It continued to do this intermittently, sometimes stalling while cornering.   I took it to the dealer for its 60,000 mile scheduled maintenance; they found no problem except a possibly partially clogged fuel injector.  I used some OTC fuel injector cleaning stuff to no avail.  Took it to a very good independent mechanic.  He spent three days checking sensors, motors, valves, computer, draining and replacing the fuel.  Everything independently checked out A-OK.  He's mystified.   What do I do now?

Answer:  You will have to scan your computer for fault codes. We recommend a pocket scanner that you can buy that work just like your mechanics. They read the data stream and give you all the trouble codes that are malfunctioning on your car.  You can look up the trouble codes here. Once you have replaced all the sensors that have failed you can use the same scanner to clear the check engine light. Check for vacuum leaks and check the operation of the idle speed motor.

Answer: Electrical problems are really difficult to trace. In your case, we would wait for the running lights to fail and then do a 12-volt power check to the wiring circuit for the running lights.

Question: 1992 Pontiac Sunbird SE 3.1 mileage 135,000. 1992 Sunbird, with 3.1 replaced from a '92 Cavalier in 1999. Car starts fine, drives fine for a few minutes in the morning, however after a while any load on the engine causes it to jerk violently (I bit right through my tongue - ouch). Spark plugs changed within the last month. Had it to three shops so far, codes come up 32 and 33 My barometric sensor or whatever for the 32 hasn't been hooked up since 1999. Same with the lockup torque converter solenoid. Replaced MAP, seemed to work, until a few minutes later, same thing started happening. Happens at all speeds, 0-130 km/h depending on load. From stop, stalls frequently, unless I floor it, in which case I waste tire longevity, risk tickets, and when it jerks violently, it's worse than usual. They've checked for vacuum leaks, changed a few vacuum lines, changes nothing. Any help would be greatly appreciated, as I live 102 kms from work, and the drive is made excruciatingly long because of all the hills, and if it always feels like this, I don't want to bite through my tongue again.

Answer: Whenever we see a question where an engine swap has taken place from one make and model to another, it concerns us because as a general rule, they are not totally interchangeable. We have not done the research here to see if your swap is interchangeable. But we suggest that you check all the ground wires to be sure they are hooked up properly. Check the vacuum to the map sensor and read the data stream to the computer to verify that all sensors are working properly.

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Question: 1990 Pontiac Sunbird 2.0 mileage: 140,000. My car last week died on the highway and I got it towed home. The first thing I did was get codes from the computer. I got a code 22 which is the TPS. I changed the TPS. The car would still not start. I got a code 34 which is the MAP sensor .I changed that also. Again it would not start. I have checked the plugs, leads, rotor, cap, and coil, all of which are fine. I checked the timing belt and marks several times insuring that the rotor was pointing to the number one cylinder. I have checked for compression, again it is good. I have checked the wiring to insure the sensors are getting the voltage required. I also replaced the ECM which again made no difference .I am getting fuel from the injector but I think it is too much and is causing the engine to flood every time. I replaced the coolant sensor, as I know this can affect fuel delivery when cold. Still it will not start. I disconnected the injector and the engine ran for a brief moment on the fuel in the throttle body. I measured the voltage going to the injector, which was 12 volts. I measured the resistance in the injector, which is 1.7 ohms. I have checked and doubled checked everything and I am truly at my wits end. If you could give me any information on this to point me in the right direction I would be very grateful.

Answer: Sounds like you have attacked the problem pretty well. Check the fuses. Do a "pin" check for power and ground to the ECM. When you replaced the ECM, did you use a new prom? If not, you could have a faulty prom. Check fuel pressure and using a Noid light check the pulse at the injectors. For your information, the injectors will have 12-volts and the computer momentarily grounds them to open the injector.

Question: 1990 Pontiac Sunbird 2.0L mileage: 132,000. I changed the spark plugs at 55,000 miles and had difficulty removing the old plugs. I think carbon built up on the internal threads that exposed to the cylinder made removal difficult. On one plug the threads in the aluminum head were somewhat damaged but I was able to install the new plug. The car is running rough and I expect the plugs are the problem but I am afraid of making things worse so I am looking for advice before attempting to change the plugs. Should I change the plugs? Are there some tricks to prevent thread damage?

Answer: Always remove the spark plugs from an aluminum head when the engine is stone cold. Try backing the spark plug with the damaged threads out a quarter a turn and then spray a light penetrating oil on the threads. There are repair kits available for damaged spark plug threads.

Question: 1993 Pontiac Sunbird 2.0 mileage: unknown. The coil pack went out on the car. I replaced it with a new one. Now when I try to start the car the injectors keep dumping fuel in the engine and it floods out the spark plugs. What could be the problem?

Answer: Check the wiring around the coil packs for damage and scan the computer for fault codes.

Question: 1987 Pontiac Sunbird 2.0 liter mileage: 110,000. Problem occurred a few months back when car just died on the road we had to get it towed to the house. 3-4 months later, we decided to work on it. We replaced head gasket, manifold intake gasket, plugs and new wires, pickup coil. Now after the battery is fully charged when we try to start it, it takes around 5 minutes to start. After it is started when you press the gas pedal it makes some noise like bup, bup then tries to catch up and dies. You can start it again but as soon as you give some gas it dies, then you cannot start it you have to let it stay for some time then put some starting fluid in the intake and start again and then the whole cycle repeats again. We are thinking of replacing the oxygen sensor, because the computer is not showing any codes. Will replacing the oxygen sensor solve our problem? If not what should we do?

Answer: The oxygen sensor is not your problem. First, check the timing belt or chain to make sure it is installed properly. Check compression and fuel pump pressure. Also, check the ignition timing.

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Question:  1993 Pontiac Sunbird 2.0 liter  mileage: 130,000.  I have intermittent starting problems. Battery O.K. Get full dash lights with key on.  Turn key, get a small click.  Upon trying to start it nothing then all of a sudden it starts after a few dozen tries.  When the car is running computer diagnostics show no codes, yet this problem will happen from time to time.

Answer:  Intermittent problems are very difficult to find.  When the problem of the no start occurs, here are some things to check:  Load test the battery.  Check that the battery cable connections are clean.  Check for 12 volts to starter solenoid with the key in the start position.  These things should be checked first then the ignition switch, neutral safety switch, starter and starter solenoid.  One of these may be faulty.

Question:  1991 Pontiac Sunbird  mileage: 111,000.   Hello!  I have an ongoing situation I hope you can help me and my mechanic with!   The problem involves the heating/cooling/temperature system.  I have had a lot of work done to it, including replacing the water pump, the thermostat multiple times, the radiator cap, flushes, etc.  (The air temperature sensor and the serpentine belt were also recently replaced--not sure if this is related--and I think I am out of Freon--not sure if this is related either, but I don't want to leave anything important out.)  In my latest round of repairs, my car was running very hot, and was leaking coolant, progressively worse, from a small occasional leak to the point where it was dumping out 3+ quarts a day.  They found hole in a hose near the back and repaired it.  Now, my car doesn't leak, but the temperature gauge is fluctuating wildly, all the way to the top and back down almost all the way.  The heater is blowing, at best, cool air, and sometimes it is cold.  This also happened the last time that it was fixed in December.   At that time, I pulled over, let the car cool down, took off the radiator cap, and when I put it back on and kept driving, the temperature gauge did not fluctuate anymore, but the heater did not work at that time either.   I assumed that the car had some kind of air bubble and just needed to "burp", for lack of a nicer term.  It kind of got to the point where everything was okay, it was running a little warmer than I liked but the heater was working, but then the latest round of problems started.  After the latest repair, I tried taking the cap off again and letting it "burp", but the problem isn't improving.  My mechanic went ahead and put in a new thermostat. Could the problem involve the head gasket and/or damage to that part, or do you think it could be something else?  I have been told by a couple of mechanics now that Sunbirds the age of mine had trouble with faulty gaskets or something to that effect.  Is this the case?  Also, do you have a very rough, ballpark idea about what repair might run?  I have already had approximately 3-4 repairs of a different nature for this problem, and I am in such a bad position, because while I can't afford to keep putting money into this car, I can't afford to buy another one either.  I appreciate your help very much!

Answer:  Talk with friends and neighbors to locate a professional service center you can trust.  Have them check for a blown head gasket, pressure test the cooling system for any leaks and flow check the radiator, as it may need to be replaced.

Question:  1993 Pontiac Sunbird 2.0l mileage: 65,000.  My car has been driving with only 3 cylinders working. I checked the sparkplugs and the wires.  They are OK.   What is the next thing to check?  I thought of the module, but was told that it would not start if it were that.  Is this true? Could it than be the coil?

Answer:  The ignition module and coil cannot be causing your problem.  Some things to check would be the compression, the injectors for each cylinder and scope the engine.

Question:  1992 Pontiac Sunbird 3.1L mileage: 242,000.  Recently, whenever the outside temperature is in the teens my horn starts blowing and I cannot get it to stop.  I have to disconnect the horn wiring to stop it, but needless to say, I no longer have a working horn.   This has happened several times so far this winter.  Any suggestions?

Answer:   Sounds like your problem is the steering wheel itself.  When it gets cold, the plastic part of the steering wheel shrinks and honks the horn.  You likely need to replace the steering wheel.  The alternative is to pray for sunny warm days.

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Question:  1990 Pontiac Sunbird 2.01 mileage: 105,000.  Car starts when it is raining but will not start when it is misty and nasty

Answer:   The problem sounds like the spark plug wires and cap and rotor are breaking down due to the excess moisture.  Replacing them should fix your problem.

Question: 1994 Pontiac Sunbird 2.0 mileage: 172,000.  Brake pedal goes slowly to the floor when coming to a slow stop; you can hear the ABS brakes clicking on the master cylinder.  Is it brake sensors or master cylinder ABS?

Answer:   It is master cylinder ABS.

Question:  1992 Pontiac Sunbird 2.0l mileage: 135,000.  All of a sudden the heater motor stops blowing.  I ran a hot wire to it and it works, fuses good, grounds good.  All I can figure is the switch.  Anything I might have missed?  I'm an old VW'er we never have these problems, but my wife wants to be warm.

Answer:    In the heater duct there is a resistor for different fan speeds, which may have failed.  Also, check the blow fan relay.

Question:  1990 Pontiac Sunbird 3.1 v6 mileage: 120,225.  Hi, I saw a similar question in your FAQs but mine's a little different.   I have a 1990 Pontiac Sunbird and had it parked for a while.  Then I gave it a tune up with new plugs, wires, battery, and oil.  I got it running then blew some walnuts out of the exhaust, soon after it wouldn’t stay running now, it won’t turn over at all but will crank.  I thought the catalytic converter might be plugged so I took off the one part behind the motor, but no good, I give up.  HELP PLEASE!

Answer:    Test for fuel pump pressure.  The pump may have failed or the fuel filter plugged.

Question:  1994 Pontiac Sunbird 4 cyl mileage: 149,000 km. I am looking at purchasing a 1994 Pontiac sunbird. The car is in good shape, and will have some rust work fixed up before I buy it. The car is apparently a one-owner car, and the previous owner sold it because the head gasket blew. The garage where I am looking at buying it is going to fix this. My question is I have been told it is not advisable to buy a car that has had the head gasket blown. That it can cause a lot of damage to the motor. I am hoping to hear from you ASAP. Thank you

Answer: It can cause a lot of damage. The symptoms of a cracked head or block are very similar.

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Question:  1990 Pontiac Sunbird SE, 83,000 miles. My car seemed to run well enough the last time I had used it. I did not drive it for about 4-5 days. It was difficult to start the car after that. It would crank a lot when I turned the ignition but would not turn over. In order to get the engine to turn over, I had to keep the accelerator pressed to the floor (similar to what would be done with a flooded engine). When driving, the acceleration was very poor and there was a soft, metallic rattle. Whenever I stopped the car (such as a stop light), the engine would stop and I would have to go through the same startup routine as already described. I parked the car for several hours and when I tried to start it once again, the engine did not turn over despite my best efforts. It would crank but nothing more.

Answer:  The first thing to do is to have the PCM computer scanned. If any fault code or codes are present, it may tell you what your problem is. Next, check for vacuum leaks (hoses that have failed or fallen off) and check ignition system.

Question:  1991 Pontiac Sunbird 1.8L, 81,000 miles. My inside rearview mirror came loose today. The thumbnail size glue patch is all that remains on the glass and some glue residue is on the mirror arm (I would think that I would need to scrape that off). I had a friend who had this occur in her Jeep Cherokee and she went thru a lot to get it to stay up. I know super glue does not work. Therefore, I must ask-how do I get the old glue off the glass, and what do I use to get it to remain on the glass forever?

Answer:  A kit to reinstall your mirror is available at most parts supply stores. It is made just for the purpose you described.

Question (follow-up):  Hey thanks... what a great service you guys provide. There is one more question that I forgot to ask. I recently (over 1 month ago) had a gasket replaced for antifreeze was spraying out of a tube, etc., and it overheated and so on.... I have begun to notice that I keep losing antifreeze in the overflow bottle. The line at "full/cold" keeps dropping very low. I assumed that maybe since the car is old that I would replace the whole overflow bottle. I did. Well it keeps getting very low and I have to add antifreeze/water once a week into the bottle. One thing I did notice is that the cap on the bottle keeps spinning (when you tighten). I had to use the old cap; for the new bottle did not come with one. Could the cap be the problem? Thanks again. Same car, Pontiac Sunbird 1991 2.0 engine I’m told. 81,000 miles.

Answer:  We do not think the old cap is the problem. Adding coolant once a week would indicate a leak. Carefully check for a coolant leak on exterior of engine and radiator. If no leak is found, you may have an internal engine leak (a failed gasket or cracked head)

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