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Question: 1984 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme  mileage: rebuilt. I re-gasketed a previously owned engine and put it in my car. I was traveling roughly at 65-70 mph when the car lacked all power and gave the car behind me a blue smoke bath. I pulled over at that time and checked the #4 spark plug and it was coated with oil. At that moment I thought my valve seals were shot. I towed the car home, opened the subject up, and found that along with valve seals the #1 exhaust valve had a pie slice hole in it. In addition, the #4 piston had a hole in the top of it. I am not a certified mechanic but I think though I may be wrong that the spark plugs that I was using were at the wrong heat range. I was using AC Delco's rapid-fire. If you would tell me why there was a hole in the piston and why there was a hole in the valve, I would be very grateful to your service.

Answer: The problems with the exhaust valve and the failed piston are probably due to that cylinder running lean. Check the injector for that cylinder and also look for vacuum leaks that would affect that cylinder. We do not think the wrong heat range of spark plugs would cause the problem you describe.

Question: 1980 Oldsmobile Cutlass mileage: 72,000. I'm from the UK and not to familiar with US vehicles and especially power steering systems. Just lately whenever I turn the steering wheel it is making a louder than normal noise from under the hub. Occasionally usually idling and standing still the wheel is hard to rotate until I rev the engine above idle. I have also noticed a green colored liquid dripping from the underneath of the vehicle to the rear of the engine bay. I bought power steering fluid but I'm unsure as how I should go about servicing the system. Once it is serviced, I am assuming the leak is from the steering system of course and can then go trace that. Any help you can offer in servicing the system and the rough location of the reservoir would be appreciated. Pete

Answer: The power steering pump and reservoir is located on the front of the engine driven by one of the fan belts. There is a removable cap on the top with a dipstick attached. With the engine off, fill this up to the full mark with power steering fluid. Replace the cap, start the engine and check for leaks. On the back of the pump are two hoses either one could be leaking. Check the tension of the drive belts on the pump, as they may be loose. Unless your power steering fluid is green, the liquid you described as green is coolant.

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Question: 1981 Olds Cutlass Cruiser 260 mileage: 140,000. My wiper motor gets very hot & eventually stops working. The voltage at the motor is OK. I have replaced the switch, motor, linkage (transmissions) & am still having the same problems.

Answer: If the ground connections are not tight the motor will draw extra amps causing it to run hot. Also, disconnect the linkage from the motor and verify that it is not binding causing an extra load on the motor.

Question: 1988 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme  mileage: 105,000. I pulled the car in the driveway the night before and shut it off, went out the next morning to go to work and it wouldn't start.... It will crank over.... So I pulled the number 5 plug wire and grounded it then cranked motor. There was no spark. I pulled the coil pack and tested one terminal off of the module to ground with a test light with the ignition on... 12v on one term, nothing on the other. Jumped between the ignition module pins with test light and didn't have any fire either while cranking engine.... Pulled the oil filler plug on the valve cover and looked inside to see if valves were opening and closing. (Timing chain) they were... I also have a 90 Chevy Lumina with the same ignition module and coil packs took it off of my Lumina and installed it on the cutlass with no luck. Same results... Any other idea's.... Thanks for your help. Mike

Answer: If your car is equipped with the factory installed antitheft devise, it may be malfunctioning keeping your car from starting. It would be wise to check the crank angle sensor for proper operation. Also, scan the computer for fault codes.

Question: 1995 Olds Cutlass Supreme SL  mileage: 85,300. I'm planning to have my timing belt replaced in about 3 weeks on this vehicle. While that is being replaced I would like to kill two birds with one stone and replace any pumps that would need to be replaced soon (according to mileage life expectancy) maybe oil or water pump? Thanks!

Answer: It would be good preventative maintenance to replace the water pump, radiator hoses and fan belts.

Question:  1990 Olds Cutlass Supreme mileage: 165,000.  I recently replaced the timing chain.  After getting all the gears and the chain in place, I started the car to make sure it was timed correctly; it ran like a true champ.  The problem is that I didn’t have the crank pulley on while running the car so the keyway flew out and the crank kept spinning while the camshafts came to a stop.  How do I line everything back up to get it back in time?   And do I have serious problems if the crankshaft will spin only 1 rotation either way?  Valve damage?  Please help

Answer:  Whoops!  Assuming the chain is still on the crank gear, rotate the crankshaft manually to a point to where you can reinstall the key.  With the crank pulley installed, try starting it again.  This is the easiest way to check for valve damage.  If you have valve damage, it will run extremely poor or not at all.

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Question:  1981 Olds Cutlass Supreme  mileage: 95,848.  I know that this is a hard one to answer without doing the road test yourself.  I guess that I am just asking you to tell me of the most likely places to look.  I am experiencing a thrumming sound which can start anywhere between 45 and 70 mph.  I have only driven this car about 1000 miles since I bought it a month ago.  I had to replace the upper control arm bushings on the left side and I bought 4 new tires and had the front-end realigned. I changed the differential gear lube (which showed signs of a very small amount of moisture present as foam) and the right rear axle bearing, which was really probably OK, but the roller retainer had a break in it. The races looked good.  I repacked the front wheel bearings, taking out the outer ones and cleaning them thoroughly but just repacking the inners since I did not have the seals.  The thrumming is inconsistently directional.  By that I mean that one time the thrumming will stay or get worse if I make a steering correction to the RIGHT and quiet down completely and immediately if the correction is made to the LEFT.   A little later the correction to the RIGHT will be the one to quiet the thrumming down completely and immediately and the one to the LEFT will establish the thrumming again.  The universal joints seem good and the thrumming occurs even if you slip it into neutral and coast.  What do you think?   Where should I look next?  Should I just keep driving it until is gets worse?

Answer:   We would take a look at the inner wheel bearings.  If we understand you, you did not inspect them only repacked with grease.

Question:  1989 Oldsmobile Cutlass Calais  mileage: 66,000.  The radiator fan is not working properly; the fan motor goes on and off way too much.  I have noticed when the motor goes on and off a clicking noise is coming from a relay located on the firewall.  It almost acts like there is a short in the wiring.  I have tried a new relay but this did not fix the problem.  Do you have any suggestions?  I am hoping this is something minor and a simple fix.  Thanks for any help you may have for me.

Answer:   With engine cold, remove radiator cap and check coolant level.  If okay, scan computer to check coolant sensor.

Question:  1992 Olds Cutlass  mileage: 154,000. Hi guys, my wife's beater is surging (lunging) at idle and when coming to a stop. She related to me that it tried to take off while stopped at a traffic signal (and of course I thought "yea, right"). After taking it for a spin, it sometimes thinks its in third gear and stalls when coming to a stop after an extended ride (25 mi.). This is an intermittent condition.  I had a friend put it on the computer and there were no trouble codes. He said it might be a transmission sensor.

Answer: Your car has a lock-up torque converter in the transmission. It locks-up only in high gear. It is supposed to disengage at lower speeds. Yours is not disengaging. There is probably a valve in the transmission “hanging up”. Having the transmission serviced with new fluid may help the problem. The cost is approximately $75.00 (Southern California Prices). Next step, the valve body will have to be removed and cleaned. The cost is approximately $200.00.

Question:  1989 Olds Cutlass Supreme mileage: 155,000. My antifreeze is leaking from my car, but the radiator and hoses are not leaking. When I run my heater I smell the antifreeze and it fogs up the windshield. I think it might be the heater coil. What I would like to know is how do I change the heater coil and where is it located.

Answer: The heater core is located under the dash on the right side. The heater duct assembly must be removed and disassembled to remove the heater core. We are sorry, but due to the large volume of questions we receive, we do not have time to print, scan and email diagrams. A Mitchell or Chilton auto repair manual will have diagrams showing you more information. The manuals also give step-by-step instructions.

Question:  1992 Olds Cutlass supreme   mileage: 106,000. My left directional signal does not flash. All bulbs are good. When activated the indicator on the dash remains on but does not blink. The right directional is fine.

Answer: Double-check the bulbs on the left side again. If they are okay, then your turn signal switch is bad or the wiring is faulty.

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Answer: The heater core is located under the dash on the right side. A Mitchell or Chilton auto repair manual will have step-by-step instructions.

Question:  1979 Oldsmobile Cutlass Brougham 260 mileage: 135,000. I have a 79 Olds, Cutlass Brougham, 260 V8, 2BBL. Recently had to replace the Fuel Pump, Fuel Filter, Plugs, Rotor and Cap. The car was running well until today. Having problem now; it keeps cutting out unless I keep pressure on the accelerator. This seems to happen more when the car is warm rather than cold. It sputters then dies. Sometimes it will sputter when I take a corner or stop at a stop sign, when I remove my foot from the accelerator and then reapply it. On cornering it is like a quick loss of power then acceleration. Does this sound like a possible carburetor problem or possibly bad fuel? We just filled the tank yesterday.

Answer:  You mentioned recently replacing the fuel pump. What may have happened, when the pump was off, is some dirt got into the fuel system and into the carburetor. Having the carburetor cleaned should fix your problem.

Question:  1989 Oldsmobile Cutlass mileage: 120,000. Removed radiator cap and found oil mixed in the water inside the radiator, I suspect a blown head gasket, what do you think?

Answer:  That is a possibility but if your car is equipped with an automatic transmission, the transmission cooler in the radiator may have failed. That is a more likely cause of your problem.

Question:  1981 Olds Cutlass Supreme , mileage: 94,800. What has to be done to replace a noisy rear axle bearing? It is the type of rear that has the pinion-locking shaft with the small lock bolt and the C-locks on the inside ends of the axles.

Answer:  The axles are retained by a "C" clip in the differential. Remove the axle and then remove the wheel bearing from the housing. Install in reverse order.

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Question:  1981 Olds Cutlass Supreme 260, mileage: 94,800. Is it necessary to move the steering column when replacing upper control arm bushings on the left front wheel?

Answer:  No. You should be able to remove upper control arm (left side) without removing the column.

Question:  1983 Olds Cutlass Supreme 231 mileage: 144,000. I am about to change the outside right tie-rod end. What needs to done to do the job right? I have the new tie-rod end.

Answer:  Replace the tie rod end and have the wheel alignment checked.

Answer:  Mitchell or Chilton are two shop manuals that give you detailed information on this and many other repairs.

Question:  I have a 1990 Cutlass Supreme SL. I have replaced the ABS brake accumulator four times since purchasing new. It has 137,000 miles on it. This last time I asked the tech, if something else in the brake system could be causing it to go out. According to him, the accumulator is only good for about 50,000 miles. Is this true, I think I smell smoke?

Answer:  I am sorry, but this is true, that particular anti-locking braking system had problems.

Question: I have a 1983 Olds Cutlass that has a dead side window regulator motor. I've looked in the Haynes and Clymer service manuals for the replacement procedure, but those books offered only vague information or none at all. Is there a way to get specific detailed instructions for this job online? Any info you could send would be helpful. Thank you, James

Answer: Do not attempt to replace the motor assembly yourself. The motor assembly has a large tightly wound spring that can cause injury. Take your car to your local auto glass service center and play it safe. Losing a finger would not be worth trying it yourself.

MORE: Oldsmobile Cutlass Repair Questions

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