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Question: 1997 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme  mileage: 75,000. I recently changed spark plugs and wires on a '97 Olds Cutlass Supreme. Now the car shakes slightly when accelerating. I changed each wire one at a time so I'm sure I didn't cross a wire. It turns over and idles great. Poor acceleration and sputtering is my problem. I put the old wires back on, but no change. I also checked for something else I could have disconnected while working but I don't see anything. I have no clue what I did wrong.

Answer: You may have cracked a spark plug during the install or possibly, you picked up some grease on the end of a plug while you were doing the install. Also, check the spark plug gap.

Question: 1998 Oldsmobile Cutlass  mileage: 104,000. Car would buck and surge at various speeds. Stalls every time you come to a stop at a light. Took it to the shop, they put it on their computer - no readings of anything wrong. The mechanic then drove the car, came back and said it seems to be shutting off for a second and coming back on. His diagnosis was an ignition problem. Changed the ignition module and coil pack. We did this a month ago. Car would still buck and surge but stopped stalling. Car would drive fine sometimes and other times it would buck and surge. Now when you drive it the indicator lights on the dash flash, the speedometer goes crazy and sometimes the whole dashboard will go blank (digital dash). They seem to think it's electrical but don't know where to go to start looking. They did talk to a GM tech that told them there is a secondary wire going to the computer that sometimes shorts out. Well they cut open the wire harness going to the computer under the car and found no bad wires. So if you guys have any ideas? This car now drives, bucks and surges with the dashboard going nuts every time you drive it; step on the pedal.

Answer: About the dash gauges going crazy, unfortunately, you need a new gauge assembly. As for the bucking and surging, we first suspect the fuel pump. Installing a temporary remote fuel pressure gauge, driving the car and observing the gauge when the problem occurs can verify if our hunch is correct.

Question: 1993 Oldsmobile Cutlass Diesel mileage: 100,206. Heater only blowing out cold air and the car is overheating. I've had the radiator boiled and cleaned, changed the water pump, put a new thermostat in and got a new heater core. I've also changed all the belts. But the car is still overheating and the heater is still blowing cold air. Any idea's what to check next? (Also, I've bled all of the lines and checked for blockage. I am at the end of things I can think of to test.)

Answer: Check for exhaust in the cooling system. You may have a head gasket that is leaking exhaust into the cooling system. The exhaust would prevent the coolant from flowing into the heater.

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Question: 1992 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme  mileage: 135,000. Hi, this car has been warping rotors within 10,000 miles. I know to use the emergency brake at least once a week, and to keep my foot of the service brake when releasing it in order to allow the rear calipers to adjust properly, been doing this since I got it with 74k on it. I believe this to be a problem of design, too small of a pad, and rotor, my Daytona's are bigger. I saw where you mention heat shields, if I remove them will that reduce this problem?

Answer: If you have aftermarket heat shields that go between the rim and the brakes, we would recommend removing them. Your brake rotor problem may be due to over tightening the lug nuts or if you have aftermarket rims on your car, they may not allow proper air circulation.

Question:  1991 Oldsmobile Cutlass Calais mileage: 95,000.  After driving car for a few miles, it bogs down, sputters & then dies.   After letting it set for a few minutes it starts up, but in a few minutes it starts over again.  I have replaced the computer, had it hooked up to a computer at the service station & checked spark plugs, it is very hard when u come to a stop light & it just gets worse as you drive.  Thank you for your help

Answer:  Check the catalytic converter to make sure it is not “plugged” or restricted.  To test for a plugged converter, drill a small hole in the exhaust pipe right before the catalytic converter.  Install a temporary hose fitting and attach a long rubber hose and a 0 to 10 pound pressure gauge.  With the gauge inside the car, drive up a hill or accelerate and read the pressure.  Normal is 2 to 3 pounds, restricted 4 pounds or higher.  The drawback to this method is the small hole will need to be welded shut after the test; a minor job if you have a welder.

Question:  1998 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme  mileage: 115,000.  This engine will run for thirty seconds and shut off. Then there is no spark.   I removed the dies coil pack and ignition module and had them tested, with a good result.  The ECM was changed last year for the same problem, but it shows no codes.  Fuel pump pressure is around 40 psi, even when engine shuts off.   Any ideas where to look from here?

Answer:  You may be having another computer module failing.  Check with an Ohmmeter the resistance of the ground connections to the computer.  Also, check the resistance of each of the fuel injectors.  If the resistance of a fuel injector is high, it will pull too much current through the computer and burn it out.

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Question:  1997 Oldsmobile cutlass supreme  mileage: 96,000.  When changing the spark plugs, is there a trick to reaching the back plug closest to the passenger side of the vehicle?  Any help would be grateful.

Answer:    With the engine cold, you just have to reach around the back of the motor and, more or less, change the pugs by Braille.  Some cars just are not mechanic friendly.

Question:  1997 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme  mileage: 115,000.  On cold starts, the idle speed is between 2400-3000 rpm. My local GM dealer did a computer diagnostic and replaced the PCM.  Still had the problem, and they said it was probably the idle air control valve.  That has been replaced too, but the problem persists.  One other thing I have noticed is that with each new part, the idle speed is somewhat better but then progressively gets worse.  Any ideas?

Answer:    Your car is equipped with a computer controlled engine management system.  An independent auto service center can scan your computer for fault or error codes.  The information should pinpoint the malfunctioning components.   If a major tune-up has not been done recently, this could be the cause of your problem.  Replace the spark plugs, plug wires, fuel and air filters, etc.  Also, replace the oxygen sensor.  In addition, service the fuel injection system.  Clean the carbon deposits from the throttle bore and idle passages.

Question:  1988 Oldsmobile Cutlass Wagon mileage: 210,000.  This Olds wagon has been a terrific car until the last week.  Yesterday, it started hesitating (all the time) and cutting off at lower speeds.  There is no warning, the engine just stops.  It almost always restarts on the first attempt, but sometimes it takes a couple of restarts to catch.   I have replaced the fuel filter (back by the left rear tire) and added fuel treatment (STP).  Over 45 mph the problem is almost completely non-existent.  Below 45 MPH, I can feel the car 'hiccupping' as I drive it.  Can you point me in the most likely direction to start looking for the problem? 

Answer:    Your car may be ready for a major tune-up including spark plugs, plug wires, distributor cap, rotor, fuel filter and air filter.  Also, perform a fuel pump pressure test.  Clean fuel injection system including throttle bore, idle speed control motor and passages.  If problem still exists, scan computer for trouble codes.

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Question:  1995 Oldsmobile  Cutlass Supreme  mileage: 135,000.  What do I need to do to change the high pressure power steering hose. Are there any tricks?

Answer:   There are no tricks – you must remove the fittings on either end of the hose and replace with new hoses and refill the system.

Question:  1996 Oldsmobile  Cutlass  mileage: 115,000.  Dear Sir, my car has detonation problem at medium throttle in any gear or speed.  Timing chain was replaced 15k ago.  I have checked belts, vacuum lines, EGR valve, vacuum to the EGR valve and timing, which is 20 degrees BTDC.  I have noticed that while checking timing mark, timing will not advance while snapping throttle.  Is this a computer problem or other component problem?  Thanks, John

Answer:   The distributor advance is controlled by the prom inside the computer.  From what you describe, yours may be faulty.

Question:  1990 Cutlass Supreme  mileage: 130,000.  My Cutlass has a digital instrument cluster (speedometer, odometer, fuel indicator, etc.).  The problem is that it only works when it wants to.  It will come on and go black, intermittently.  When it is on, it tends to flicker.  Is this some type of loose connection or does the entire unit have to be replaced?

Answer:  Yes, the entire unit should be replaced.

Addendum: This is actually an answer to those asking about intermittent failures in digital dashboards.  If you are contemplating replacing the instrument cluster AND are doing it yourself AND are competent at soldering, try this:  I've fixed a few of these simply by re-soldering the circuit boards, they seem prone to failure when the vehicle's vibration causes soldered connections to fail.  In particular, there's a DC-to-DC converter sub-module attached to the main board, which seems unusually susceptible to failure AND drives most of the illumination of the displays.  Look for a small board attached to the main board and re-solder all of its connections.  It may just work again, and you've saved yourself some cash, or it may not and you didn't have anything to lose in the first place.

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Question:  1997 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme  mileage: 120,000 .  Car is an International Series. Car will not start, replaced plugs, checked fuel pump, all basics!  Compression test reveals low compression 0 to 70 psi in all six cylinders.  Do not understand and need to know possible cause!  There is spark, it is firing but will not catch.  Any help you can offer would be greatly appreciated.  I am at a loss!

Answer:    Check the timing chain, it may have failed.

Question:  1982 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme  mileage: 91,000.  My Oil/Choke light keeps coming on when I stop.  It used to only happen after I had been driving at high speeds, or for long periods, and would only flicker.  However, as of late it has started to come on after only a few minutes of driving, and has remained steadily lit.  I just changed my oil, so I know that it is not low.  I work at Trak Auto, and when I ask my co-workers, they say that it is either the Oil Pressure sending unit, the Oil Pump, or the Main Bearings.  What do you guys think it is?  HELP!

Answer:    Yes we agree, it can be any or all of the above.

Answer:  That vacuum line is more than likely your problem.  We are sorry, but due to the large volume of questions we receive, we do not have time to print, scan and email diagrams.  A Mitchell or Chilton auto repair manual will have diagrams showing vacuum hoses.

Question:  1994 Cutlass-Supreme  mileage: 150,000.   I have repaired all the brakes on my past cars. A local mechanic has told me that it requires a special tool to replace the pads on the rear brakes.  Is this true or is this a ploy to make money?  (A lot of money)   This is an ABS system.  Thank You

Answer:    A special tool is required to retract the rear brake pistons.

Question:  1990 Oldsmobile Cutlass mileage: 125,000.  Recently started.  Step on the gas pedal in r/d it feels like there's nothing there the car only moves at a idle.  Shift a couple times it will work again!  All brackets and cables are tight!  Could it be TPS?  There are 2 new attachments on the TB I haven't seen before!

Answer:  It sounds like transmission problems.  Check the fluid level also it maybe ready for service.  Changing the fluid and filter may help.

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