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Mercury Cougar
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Question: 1986 Mercury Cougar
mileage: 100,200. I have loud knocking sound when the
throttle is pressed down halfway or more, and the
knocking gets louder the further I press the pedal.
However, the engine idles fine and accelerates smoothly
at low throttle. The car also uses more gas than usual.
Using high-octane gas or additives doesn't make the
problem go away. I hooked up a code scanner, and the
EEC-IV computer shows the following trouble codes: CODE
31: "EGR sensor voltage too low". I changed the sensor
and cleared the codes, but it's still showing this code.
CODE 41: "Oxygen sensor readings constantly show a lean
condition". I also used a sensor tester, and it also
shows the oxygen sensors are reading a constant lean
condition. I replaced both oxygen sensors, but the
engine is still running lean and giving this trouble
code. In the past 5000 miles I have: 1) Changed the
distributor cap, rotor, spark plugs, spark plug wires,
air filter, fuel filter, and battery. 2) Checked the
ignition timing and timing advance. 3) Checked for any
vacuum leaks. I don't think there are any, because a
vacuum leak would make the engine idle too fast, but the
engine idles fine. 4) Checked and cleaned the fuel
injectors. I used a fuel injector and harness tester,
and they open and close properly with no obstructions to
the fuel flow. 5) Checked the fuel pressure. It reads 35
PSI, which is within the normal range. 6) ** Hooked up a
vacuum gauge. It shows a steady 15 when idling in drive,
which seems too low. 7) Checked the Rpms with a
tachometer, and it idles correctly at 550 Rpms. 8)
Checked the charging system, which reads a constant 13.8
volts. In the past 20,000 miles, I have: Changed the EGR
valve, timing chain, gears, camshaft, hydraulic lifters,
and alternator. Other observations: I believe the main
crankshaft bearings are slightly worn, as indicated by
low oil pressure and a knocking sound when engine is
first started. Also a slight ticking sound coming from a
hydraulic lifter on cylinder #3. I would very much
appreciate any opinions, guesses, or even blind hunches
from you gentlemen before I take this car to a repair
shop.
Answer: It looks like you are having
internal engine problems. You possible have a broken
piston or broken rings, etc.
Question: 1989 Mercury Cougar. I
found a round plastic piece about 1 1/2 " long with a
rubber O-ring on it floating in my transmission pan.
Kind of looks like a plunger or fishing bobber. Do you
know what this is or where it goes? Thanks, Shane
Answer: When your car was assembled
at the factory, the round plastic piece was used in
place of the dipstick to keep foreign objects out of the
transmission. On the assembly line, the dipstick tube is
inserted pushing the round plastic piece into the
transmission. It serves no purpose after the tube is
installed.
Question: 1997 Mercury Cougar
mileage: 123,000. Automatic Transmission Shifter:
Recently when I start the car, it is often very hard to
depress the shifter button and move the shifter out of
PARK. It's like the safety lock is not disengaging, but
it doesn't happen every time. It's worse when the car is
on a very slight incline and the engine is cold. Any
ideas? Linkage? Electrical?
Answer: Your car is equipped with a
transmission safety lock, which prevents the car from
being removed from park unless the brake pedal is
depressed. The switch on the brake pedal or the lock
mechanism on the gearshift may be faulty.
Question: 1989 Mercury Cougar LS
mileage: 125,000. I was wondering if the power seat can
go back any further, the seat is all the way back now,
so is there way to make it go back farther?
Answer: Without seeing your car, it
is a little difficult to answer your question. However,
try removing the entire seat assembly and tract and
check to see if new holes can be drilled in the
floorboard to locate the tract back further.
Question:
1989 Cougar mileage: 154,000. Our 1989 Cougar
started to idle at 2000 rpms after we steam cleaned the
engine and we just did an oil change. Any suggestions?
Answer:
Computer controlled engines with all the electronic
sensors and motors do not like being wet.
Therefore, steam cleaning is an absolute no no!
The moisture in the wire connections changes the
resistance fed to the computer. Try disassembling
the wire connections and drying them out.
Question:
1995 Cougar xr7 mileage: 33,000. Has a
vibration or shudder when car is in overdrive,
especially when the car accelerates or overdrive is
under stress. When I turn the overdrive off the car does
not have this vibration.
Answer:
We that your transmission may be ready for service.
Replacing the filter and fluid may correct the problem.
Question:
2000 Mercury Cougar mileage: 59,400. Bob &
Ken, I just recently had my first service on my new
cougar. They also had to replace defective rotors.
The very next day out of nowhere, I noticed an excessive
vibration coming from the gas petal while I'm driving.
The car rides rougher than normal now. I literally
get a foot massage on the gas petal. When I took
it into the shop, they didn't think anything was wrong.
They told me that sometimes the vibration just escapes
through the insulation and Ford needs to design better
insulation and motor mounts. I've also noticed
that it occurs worse during some times than others.
But, I definitely know that something is wrong.
The gas pedal was as smooth as ice when I first had the
car, now suddenly there is a vibration and rougher ride.
What do you think it could be?
Answer:
When the car was in for repair and hoisted in the air,
somehow something that supports the engine was
bent. This would cause some engine vibration to
feed back into the car.
Question:
1988 Mercury Cougar mileage: 100,000. About
three days ago, the car would no start, and I replaced
the engine module on the distributor. After I
replace it, the engine would not keep the car running,
so I drove it home holding the engine between the start
and the run position. Now the car will not do
anything; no start, no radio, nothing. The battery
is only a few months old. Please help, thank you.
Answer:
It appears, from what you have described, that a faulty
ignition switch may be causing your car not to start.
Question:
1990 Mercury Cougar mileage: 88,000. I have
recently been experiencing the following braking issues
(this is a non-ABS system): At first when I
applied the brakes, it appeared that too much brake was
being applied. It has now been progressively
getting worse. Now when I apply the brake (even
lightly) and let off, the car continues to apply the
brakes to the point were it sometimes wants to stop the
car. After reading about my system, I
suspect the booster. Does it sound like I am in
the right area or should I suspect the check valve
first?
Answer: Several things to
check; the power brake booster, the rear brakes, and the
rear brake return springs.
Question:
1992 Mercury Cougar mileage: 95,000. The
metal brake line from the right front wheel to the
master cylinder has a small pinhole near the right
fender wall down low. Replacing the whole line
would be very difficult due to running behind the engine
and having many curves and bends. What would be
the best way to repair the line? I have been told
I can use what was described as a "double flare kit".
Cutting out the bad area and connecting a new section
with fittings. In addition, can brass
fitting be used or only steel fittings. I do not
have ABS.
Answer: The preferred way to repair your
problem is to replace the entire steel brake line.
It can be done as you suggest by splicing in a new piece
of tubing. Be aware when doing the repairs on
steel tubing with a double flair, it can be very
difficult to do it properly. Brass fittings are
okay. Do not under any circumstances use
copper tubing for the repairs.

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