Mazda 626 Repair Questions and Answers

Answer:  The fuel filter is probably in the rear of the car by the fuel tank.  Now, on to the diesel problem.  Remove as much diesel fuel as possible from the gas tank and refill it with gasoline.  You may have to crank the car to purge the diesel fuel out of the fuel lines.  After that, it should start and run okay.  There should be no damage to the engine from the diesel fuel.

Question:  1998 Mazda 626  mileage: 133,000.  With the rise in gas prices and the manufacturer recommending premium gas.... I was wondering.... Does the use of regular gas (87 vs. 91) harm or do anything to my engine?  If I should mix the gas should I alternate tanks or fill 50/50?  If no harm is done, why do they recommend premium?  Thanks.

Answer:  The car manufacturer recommends 91 octane because of the compression and performance of your engine.  Running a lower octane may work although engine performance will suffer and you may experience some pinging.  Your car is equipped with a knock sensor that may adjust the timing to eliminate the pinging.

Question:  1997 Mazda 626 lx  mileage: 105,000.  I'm getting some vibration in the front end of the car when I reach speeds around 50 mph.   I went to my local mechanic and he said my motor mounts were shot and I need to replace them.  He quoted me $750 dollars and I think this is too high.  Can you tell me what the motor mount is made of and is this a reasonable price. 

Answer:    Check with your local Mazda dealer for an estimate for the work mentioned.  The motor mounts are fluid filled, not the normal rubber you would expect.

Question:  1995 Mazda 626  mileage: 102,000.  I recently replaced the upper radiator hose, spark plugs and wires. When I started the car, it idled rough and would jerk upon acceleration.  I re-checked the spark plugs for proper gap, checked the wires for connection and the firing order.  All was correct.   My muffler has a couple of small holes in it and someone said it might be the catalytic converter clogging up.  I think I knocked off a vacuum line.  What do you think?  I am afraid to take it to a mechanic, because most see a woman coming and see dollar signs (no offense).  I like to do my own repairs and have never been stumped like this before.  Thank You

Answer:  We do not think the muffler or the catalytic converter is your problem.  You mentioned knocking off a vacuum line.  If it is still off or incorrectly reinstalled, that would definitely cause your problem.

Question:  1996 Mazda 626  mileage: 140,000 Its been a great car, recently when turning right the engine stalls, even more so when the gas tank is half empty.  Makes no difference what the road speed is.  Please help.

Answer:    You may have a cracked fuel line between the tank or the fuel pump in the tank is faulty.

Question:  1995 Mazda 626  mileage: 100,000.  Please Help?  This car seems to be snake bit.  This is just the most current emergency.  My over drive light keeps flashing and it won't go into (is it 4th gear or 5th gear).  Car will only go barely 60 mph.  This just started this weekend with no real warning, or one that I might be aware of.  I am taking it in for a diagnostic check tomorrow am.  But he says he can't do the work for 3 weeks.  I don't think I can go that long.  My whole commute is on the highway.  Help...

Answer:    Check the catalytic converter to make sure it is not “plugged” or restricted.  Your car is equipped with a computer controlled engine management system.  An independent auto service center can scan your computer for fault or error codes.  The information should pinpoint the malfunctioning components.

Question:  1997 Mazda 626 mileage: 160,000.  My problem has some of the same characteristics as a previous question. My car has started to run rough in idle and stall at a stop, only in forward gears.  The car runs fine but shudders and stalls in forward gears with the brake on.  Thinking the problem might be a tune-up I replaced the fuel filter, plugs, pcv valve and air filter.  The transmission seems fine.  This car has automatic transmission, a/c, fuel injection but no turbo charger.  Thanks for your help.

Answer:   Your car is equipped with a computer controlled engine management system.  You can scan your computer for fault or error codes with a pocket Scan cp9125 code scanner for under $80.  The information it gives pinpoints the malfunctioning components and will also clear the check engine light after you have made the repairs. 

Question:  1997: Mazda 626 mileage: 103,000.  One week after purchase, the alternator belt broke and the car over heated.  The dealer who sold me the car, since I was only a couple of miles from where I purchased the vehicle, the sales manager told me to drive the car on in and they would give me a loaner until they could repair mine.  I drove the car approx. 2 more miles with thermostat registering HOT!  After replacing the belt, the car did not shift as smoothly.  Progressively the problem got more noticeable and would literally jerk you upon shifting and required high RPM to change gears (Overdrive).  Finally the car started slipping and hesitating upon acceleration and then totally went down and reverse was all that was left.  I had to have a new manufactured transmission installed by a Mazda dealer since the transmission specialist in my area did not want to repair and would not give a warranty.  I would like to know if my driving the vehicle and it overheating when the belt broke contributed or main factor for transmission problem?  The car was not under warranty at the time of break down ~ only when the belt broke.  (3,000 mile or 3 mo.)  Several different mechanics and one at the Mazda service center told me that overheating could have been the problem.  What do you think?

Answer:    Over heating an engine can cause many problems.   Did it cause your transmission to start to fail?  Does not sound likely.  If you had said that shortly after, the head gasket failed and needed replacing, we could possibly see that happening.  Sorry.

Question:  1989 Mazda 626 lx mileage: 135,000. Heating does not work. I changed the thermostat and added clean fluid. Hot water does not go into heating core.

Answer: The heater control valve may not be working properly by not allowing hot coolant to the heater. The valve is vacuum operated and they hang up or the vacuum hose gets loose.

Question:  1997: Mazda 626 mileage: 90,000. How do I change out my combination switch for my headlights?

Answer: Disassemble the steering column – its straight forward. Disconnect the battery and remove the steering wheel.  Disconnect wiring connectors and remove the combination switch mounting bolts and replace with new switch and reassemble.

Question:  I bought a Mazda 626 with Auto Trans recently. I have a problem with the car choking and dying whenever I put my gear in any forward position "D, S or L". Reverse is fine. I can drive the car (reverse only). Idle is fine (can rev). Trans is fine (fluid is red). No oil leaking. No AC. No "check lights" on. I did step on the gas and put gear in D. It drove chopping, choking and revving up and down like crazy. However, when I come to a stop it chokes and dies. I suspect the fuel system. I think it is the filter (but looks new). Could I be in the big hole on this? Fuel injectors or dirty gas tank?

Answer:  Wow, you do have a strange problem. After some thought, we would suggest carefully checking the wiring in the engine compartment. What may be occurring is the engine moves or "rocks" in one direction in reverse and the other direction in drive. This engine movement may be pulling on the wiring causing the engine to die. Check for broken motor mounts also.

Question: I have a 1993 Mazda 626 2 liter engine. with automatic transmission that has been rebuilt some time ago. it changes from 2 to 3 and at other speeds it seems and feels the engine losses power. it happens all the time. what are the things that could cause this. thanks

Answer: Could be a problem with the TPS and VSS-or shifting solenoids.

Question: 1996 Mazda 626 LX How can I stop my harmonic Balancer from spinning when I try to remove it. I am changing the water pump and timing belt and kit. I have all the parts and removed all the parts to get to the timing belt but I can't get the balancer to quit spinning. I've tried jamming wrenches on the inner lobes of the balancer and tried loosening it that was w/ no luck it is really on there? Any help would be great.

Answer: Disable the ignition, take a long breaker bar with correct size socket on the center crank bolt verify the engine rotation then crank it over. or you can jam the flywheel/flexplate.



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