Mazda 626 Repair Questions and Answers

Question: 1997 Mazda 626 ES  mileage: 128,000. My car recently tripped the engine check light. My wife took the car to our local Mazda dealer (I was out of town) and they pulled codes 23 and 24 from the computer. According to the service manager, those codes related to high idle and misfire. Anyway, all they did was adjust base idle, perform a top end carbon cleanout, and reset the computer. According to the service report, they road tested the car for about 9 miles and the check light stayed out. When my wife picked up the car, she drove it a short distance away from the dealer and, as you might expect, the check light came on again. I'm perplexed. I did a bit of Internet research yesterday after the car visited the dealer and my information indicates that codes 23 & 24 relate to the right side oxygen sensor, not high idle and misfire. All the various engine sensors are original. Also, plugs are new NGKs and we do use high octane gas as recommended by Mazda. My speculation is that the oxygen sensor is bad. With 128,000 miles on the car, it appears prudent to me to replace both the right hand and left hand sensors. Am I heading in the right direction?

Answer: You are heading in the right direction...replacing both oxygen sensors is where we would start. If the spark plug wires are several years old, replacing them would be a good idea. If the problem persists, you may have to replace the mass airflow sensor.

Question: 1996 Mazda 626 LX mileage: 70,000. My Mazda 626 has the following problem: when cold, no problems are apparent. Once at normal operating temperature, it idles erratically and stumbles during normal acceleration - the stumbling is similar to water in the gas or misfiring. It operates well at a constant speed (say highway speed). The "check engine light" has come on. Reviewing the Haynes repair manual, it appears that the problem might be with part of the emissions control systems (say oxygen sensor). Haynes has a description of how to get the codes from the OBD by using a jumper wire (between terminals STI and GND) and watching the light to get the number of flashes (i.e. the engine's Morse code). It appears from the diagram of the OBD connector that my car has the OBD-1 system (a group of 25 or so terminals in a compartment under the hood (not an under dash model that seems to be the OBD-II. The directions that they give do not work. Furthermore, in another part of the book they present another example of this same OBD-I connector and give the same terminal (STI) a different name (TEN) that matches the terminal name and position as shown in my car. I am guessing that they have mixed up the diagrams and terminal names. Can you give any information on how to get the codes from the OBD system as a help? I have been told by an auto service provider that the problem with my car is that the oil seals around the spark plugs (o-rings) are shot on the front 3 cylinders, and that the head cover gasket needs to be replaced, the plugs need to be replaced, and that the special spark plug wires need to be replaced. However, they could not get the codes. I cannot trust them to make the right call if they can't even access the codes (they say they don't have the computer hook-up) and we do not live near a dealer. Your assistance would be greatly appreciated as a second opinion - I am not thrilled about forking over a lot of money to people who can't even get the right codes.

Answer: You car requires an OBDII scanner. This should tell you if there are any fault codes in the computer. In addition, check the rubber boot cracks between the airflow box and the intake manifold.

Question: 1990 Mazda 626 mileage: 138,000. Well my clutch is going out on my car and my dad and I were going to fix it but we got one of those maintenance books and it was from 1988 to 1998 and it had all models and it said to drop the transaxle to replace it but some people told me I had to pull the engine, do you know if I have to pull the engine or not?

Answer: Either pulling the engine or the transaxle will work to replace the clutch. We have found that it is easier to do the transaxle.

Question: 1995 Mazda 626  mileage: 99,000. When driving home from work, I noticed lack of power. Then, after stopping at a light, my rpms dropped dramatically, and at acceleration, the car jumped and jerked until I got to approximately 20-30 mph. At the next light, it stalled. I replaced the plugs, wires, distributor cap and rotor, and the fuel filter. I know it sounds like the fuel injectors, but in Park, it idles fine. Is this normal? Also, in Reverse, it seems to run fine as well. People have told me it might be the transmission, but I doubt this because the way the tachometer bounces like that.

Answer: Check the rubber boot that connects the fuel injection body to the intake manifold. If it has a crack or tear, it must be replaced.

Question: 1996 Mazda 626 ES mileage: 127,000. I recently purchased a 1996 Mazda 626 ES 2.5L car for my daughter and do not have the owner's manual. There are two problems I have been unable to solve: 1. The car has an anti-theft feature. Locking the car door from the outside with the key causes an idiot light on the dash to illuminate for about five seconds. The graphics on the light say "Security". After five seconds, the bell dings (sounds like the same bell that dings repeatedly with you leave the lights on and open the door). The light goes out but flashes on for a fraction of a second about every three seconds, apparently indicating that the alarm is activated. When you unlock the driver door with a key, the alarm immediately goes off, causing the horn to beep repeatedly and the lights to flash. Turning the key in the trunk lock deactivates the alarm. The local Mazda dealer said there was no factory security on the 96 models. I believe it is factory since there's an idiot light in the dash and the wire going to the trunk lock cylinder is clearly factory (part of the wiring harness, not spliced in). How do I disable the security system? Perhaps the car originally had a remote for the key ring, but I don't have one now. 2. The idiot light for the air bag flickers on and off randomly as I drive. The Haynes book says that if there's a problem, the light comes on and stays on. I suspect there's a short or bad ground. How can I troubleshoot this problem?

Answer: Your security system does sound like a factory-installed option. The computer for the alarm is probably causing your problem. We do not recommend untrained people attempting to repair airbags. You should take it to the dealer or someone who is experienced.

Question: 1996 Mazda 626  mileage: 130,000. What are all the problems that a failed oxygen sensor causes if I keep driving my Mazda 626 (96)? Will my car quit on me or anything? What am I in danger of as far as hurting my car?

Answer: Oxygen sensors read the fuel mixture in the exhaust and send the information to the computer. The computer then adjusts the fuel mixture. By not replacing faulty oxygen sensors, you can expect that your check engine light will eventually come on accompanied by erratic idle and poor running. Your car probably will not quit running and there should not be any damage done to it by driving it with faulty oxygen sensors.
 

Question: 1995 Mazda 626  mileage: 160,000. The car had a new O2 sensor installed at 50000 miles. The check engine light came on after that and the repair shop said everything was fine. After I disconnected the battery to work on the radio (and reconnected it), the engine experienced major power loss and hesitation, but the check engine light went out. The readings from the O2 sensor and Mass Air Flow sensor are within spec, but if I unplug the MAF sensor, the engine runs much better (although not perfect). I suspect that the MAF is bad and that the computer was supplying a default value until disconnected the battery and now that value is gone. I think that replacing the MAF will solve the problem but I'm looking for some assurance that I'm on the right track before I lay out $180. Thanks

Answer: From what you tell us, it would appear that the MAF is causing your problems. Replacing it should fix your problem.

Question:  1997 Mazda 626  mileage: 107,000.  Recently my son was driving the car and the alternator belt broke.  Everything is fine so far; I get a belt, replace it and think everything is rosy.  I go to start the car and it turns over but no ignition.  So I take out the plugs all cylinders have fire, but the cylinders are flooded.  OK I get serious, I pull the fuel pump relay, and turn the car over for about 2 minutes, check the cylinders (dry), dry the plugs, put the plugs in, put the relay back in and think everything is rosy.  Go to start the car it turns good you can hear a cylinder or two trying to catch but no go.  I have tried the last procedure about 5 times now and the engine floods every time.  I never had this happen to me before can you HELP me.

Answer:  Check the fuel pressure regulator.  If that checks out okay, scan the computer for fault codes.  The information should pinpoint the malfunctioning components.



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