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Mazda
323
Repair Questions and Answers
Question: 1995 Mazda 323 mileage 162,000: My Mazda
has developed a really annoying engine fault. When the
engine is cold and running on choke (or whatever fuel
injection engines do) it runs fine. But as the engine
warms up and it comes off choke it coughs and splutters,
the engine floods and then it dies. It then refuses to
restart - the engine turns over but makes no attempt
start. After leaving it for 20-30 minutes it will
reluctantly start and then once it's up to temperature
it doesn’t miss a beat. Alas I am quite confident of
doing a 300 mile journey without any problems but know
that if I just want to pop to the shops round the corner
the 323 will breakdown. My local garage have tried
replacing the distributor cap, rotor arm, HT leads,
choke sensor, air flow sensor, coil and ignition sensor
- none of which have resolved the problem. My friendly
mechanic is now lost for ideas and suggested that I ask
you friendly folk for help. Please help - I love my 323
but it’s worthless if I can't fix this problem.
Answer:
Scan
the computer for fault codes...we suspect that you have
a faulty coolant sensor. Also check the rubber air
intake boot for cracks.
Question:
1993 Mazda 323 Mileage:
170,000. The car is running really rich, especially when
I start it in the morning. When the car is warm, it
seems to run fine, well most of the time. Parts I have
replaced recently are the O2 sensor, timing belt,
distributor cap, spark plug wires/plugs, and air filter.
I am currently getting about 12 miles to the gallon.
Answer:
We suspect that the
timing belt has been incorrectly installed. Double check
the timing marks on the pulleys. We think you will find
it is off one tooth.
Question:
1993 Mazda 323 mileage: 142,000 I need to replace my fuel
pump but I can't find it. Could you tell me where it is?
Answer:
Your fuel pump is located in the fuel tank.
Question:
1994 Mazda 323 mileage: 150,000. The car will
crank over but it won't start. The ignition system
is working, all fuses appear to be intact, and the fuel
system appears to work, since it would pump fuel to the EFI unit. When the car quit, it was doing fine,
then lost power drastically. After pulling
off, the car would not restart. Any suggestions on
what to check to isolate the problem?
Answer:
Here are some things to have checked: 1. Check to
see if the timing belt chain has failed, 2. Check for
ignition spark at spark plugs, 3. Check for fuel
pressure, 4. Scan P.C.M. (computer) for fault or error
codes. The information should pinpoint the
malfunctioning components.
Question:
1992 Mazda 323 mileage: 160,000. The engine
overheats quickly. It has a new water pump,
radiator, and thermostat. The coolant seems to be
forced out the overflow, leaving nothing. Could
there be a clog in the water jackets or is it something
else?
Answer:
Have your engine checked for a blown head gasket.
Question:
1990 323 2dr hatchback mileage: 125,000. I
recently bought the car and it started and ran fine.
Then I washed out the engine compartment with a hose.
Now the car will not start. No spark. The
distributor cap and wires are OK. There is voltage
at the ignition coil and igniter. The engine
diagnostic code says 2 flashes - my shop manual says
this means "Distributor No signal". What can I do?
Answer:
Replace the distributor.
Question:
1991 Mazda 323 mileage: 115,000. Hello my car dies
out while idle or acceleration...engine dies but dash
lights stay on is it distributor igniter and if so
where is it...help!
Answer:
Your car may be ready for a
major tune-up including spark plugs, plug wires,
distributor cap, rotor, fuel filter and air filter.
Also, perform a fuel pump pressure test. Clean
fuel injection system including throttle bore, idle
speed control motor and passages. If problem still
exists, scan computer for trouble codes.
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