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Automobile / Lexus
Lexus Repair Questions and Answers
Question:
1990 Lexus LS400 V8 mileage 56,000. Recently purchased
this Lexus used. From day one steering felt stiff. When
making a turn either left or right past 1/2 turn you
would get a vibration thru the steering wheel and you
can hear a slight groaning sound. This happens only at
slow speed only 5 mph or less. At higher speeds takes a
little more effort to make a turn. Rack/pinion was
changed by previous owner with a non/oem type. Mechanic
friend suggested changing p/s pump, pressure/return line
and flush and bleed entire p/s system. After doing all
that it worked for about 20 miles then gradually
problems reappeared. Do you think rack/pinion is the
problem from the start?
Answer: Do a pressure check of the
high side of the power steering pump. You will probably
find low pressure which would indicate that the pump is
faulty.
Question:
1993 Lexus ES 300 6 cyl mileage: 59,000. As a former
mechanic, I have maintained my Lexus myself since I
bought it new. My problem is this, a substantial
steering wheel vibration at 62 mph+. I had wheels
balanced and rebalance. That did not help. Bought 4 new
tires and that did not help. I jacked car up and ran
front wheels and found right front wheel not running
true. I replaced both side CV half shafts with (new
axles and cv joints). This did not help either. I
replaced rotors and right front hub and wheel bearing to
no avail. I have tried different wheels, which did not
help. The car has never been in an accident. What's left
to cause problem? Center support? Transmission?
Answer: Check the lower ball joints
on the front-end. We will bet you will find that they
are loose and the cause of your vibration problem
Question: 1990 Lexus LS 400 V-8
mileage: 128,000. My mechanic is replacing the ECM unit
for this car. He is an honest, smart guy. However, he
and I cannot find the location of this unit in the car.
We ordered the part from a salvage location (a new one
would be over $2000!) but no one can tell us where it is
located. The ECM seems to have been moved by Toyota
several times during the evolution of this car.
Evidently the 1990 model has a different location than
the mid-year 1991. Can you help?
Answer: We believe it is located
behind the right side of the dash to the left of the ABS
control unit as you face the dash.
Question: 1992 Lexus ES300 6 cyl
mileage: 65,000. I am completely stumped on this problem.
It's nigh on a year now, and neither I nor any mechanics
have been able to resolve it. The engine overheats when
the thermostat is installed. When the thermostat is
removed, it holds a normal temperature. When it
overheats, the scalding water comes out of the small
hose leading to the water reservoir. So, the radiator
cap is relieving the interior section and permitting the
hot water to escape. What is causing this? There, that's
all the question I have. But let me explain what I've
done to try to eliminate the problem. 1. Have already
bought three thermostats - one from Pep Boys for Lexus,
one from Toyota and one from Western Auto. 2. Have
installed the thermostats with the spring assembly
toward the engine, and the rubber seal on the
circumference of the thermostat. 3. Have bought three
different radiator caps (one was actually defective).
All caps are made for Lexus with a 16-psi relief
pressure. 4. Had radiator removed and manually cleaned
by professional radiator shop. 5. Replaced the two main
hoses to and from radiator. 6. When checked with
pressure gauge on radiator water fill section, there are
no leaks in the system. 7. Water does not leak from the
system. 8. Temperature sensor on thermostat housing has
been checked and is working fine. When temperature
increases, hydraulic fan is increased in speed and blows
like hades. 9. Short circuited hydraulic fan sensor to
keep fan activated at full speed when system was full of
water. Driving car lasted about 5 minutes until engine
completely overheated into red zone. 10. Strangely
enough, I placed the thermostat in the engine last
night, and other than a slight overheating of the system
for about 20 seconds, I was able to drive the car for
over an hour with no apparent over temperature
condition. The next morning, however, I checked the
water and it was low. Took about 2 quarts to fill. This
may have been due to not completely filling the system
the night before. 11. Checked both thermostats today in
hot water on the stove. Both opened at about 190C so I'm
guessing that they both work. They are both new. 12. If
I drive the car without a thermostat, I never have an
overheating problem, nor does the car lose water. 13. A
new water pump was installed last year. 14. New belts
were installed last year. What are some possible things
to check to resolve this mystery? Is there anything in
the engine section where the thermostat housing is
attached, which is mechanical and can be damaged? As you
can see, I'm at a loss for a solution to this problem.
No one has been able to resolve it, and it's now over
one year. This car was not well cared for in the past
and my mechanic changed the pistons, rings, bearings and
seals in the motor, along with the water pump. Valves
were cleaned and the heads milled slightly for flatness.
This car apparently had this problem before I bought it.
Someone has installed an electric fan with silicone
sealant on the a/c radiator. We've disconnected the fan,
but can't get it off due to the bonding of the silicone.
While I would like to think that this has something to
do with the engine overheating, I know it doesn't. It's
just an eyesore and something that will eventually be
removed. So, if you are the genie with the magic
solution, please, please let me know! Hoping that you
guys are better at solving this than the mechanics down
here.
Answer: Considering all the parts
you have replaced and the tests you have done, the only
thing that we can think of is that you have a leaky head
gasket problem or a cracked head. Your mechanic will
know how to check for these problems.
Question: 1993 Lexus 300c 6-cyl
mileage: 120,000. Just wanted to ask you if a catalytic
converter overheats to the point where it is so hot it
is igniting the bottom undercoat of a car along with a
slight oil leak, just to make the point the converter is
really red hot, anyway, isn't there a possibility that
the converter becomes damaged? Besides testing the
emissions to see, if they are within parameters is there
any other form of diagnostics on catalytic converters.
My problem is that the car bottom caught on fire as a
result to the converter overheating. No doubt the oil
leak has to be fixed, as well as any problem the car was
having to make the converter overheat, but what about
the converter itself? A converter for my car runs
approximately nine hindered dollars. How can I really
know if my car needs to have one replaced or has been
damaged and will need replacement soon?
Answer: It is difficult to say if
your catalytic converter is okay from here. The
converters are made to run hot but if they are severely
overheated, they can be damaged. We suspect the cause of
the converter overheating would be in the emission
control system, possibly an air control valve that is
not functioning properly. Another possibility would be a
leaky fuel injector or a faulty fuel pressure regulator
that would cause the engine to run rich. To test for a
plugged converter, drill a small hole in the exhaust
pipe right before the catalytic converter. Install a
temporary hose fitting and attach a long rubber hose and
a 0 to 10 pound pressure gauge. With the gauge inside
the car, drive up a hill or accelerate and read the
pressure. Normal is 2 to 3 pounds, restricted 4 pounds
or higher. The drawback to this method is the small hole
will need to be welded shut after the test; a minor job
if you have a welder.
Question: 1997 Lexus LS 400 4.0 MFI
mileage: 40,000. The valves on the right bank of my
Lexus had to be adjusted at 38,000 miles. The dealer did
nothing to the left bank, as they said no valve noise
was audible, however I still hear noise. Should I be
having this type of problem with my Lexus with such low
mileage, or I am I over-reacting a bit. The reasons the
dealer gave me for the problem...I just didn't buy.
Please help me if you can. Is a mere adjustment just a
band-aid repair that will cost dearly after warranty has
run out? I feel that the problem my be much deeper
(hydraulic lifter defect)?
Answer: Our experience with the
Lexus engine has been very good. The chance that you
have hydraulic lifter problems is remote. Check for
exhaust leaks as they sometimes mimic what sounds like
valve noise.
Question:
1995 LEXUS ES-300 mileage: 75,000. What
is the manufacturer's specified replacement interval for
brake rotors?
Answer: There is no specified
replacement interval for brake rotors. They should
be replaced when they are below the factory minimum
thickness size.
Question:
1990 Lexus ls 400 mileage: 140,000. I am
replacing the timing belt, the cams and crank have
moved. What do I do to insure proper alignment and
timing?
Answer:
We are sorry, but due to the large volume of questions
we receive, we do not have time to print, scan and email
diagrams. A Mitchell or Chilton auto repair manual
will have diagrams showing what you are looking for.
The manuals also give step-by-step instructions.
The
Car Repair Manuals
page is a
good source for purchase of make and model specific online repair information.
Question:
1991 Lexus LS400 V-8 mileage: 105,000. The shifter
will not engage back in the parked position. My
son forced it out of the parked position. The key
will not come out of the ignition until you disconnect
the battery. The shift release button will
not let it go back in the parked position. Please
help.
Answer:
Disassemble the lock mechanism and inspect for worn or
broken parts.
Question:
1994 Lexus mileage: 94,000. How do you
take the brake pads loose from the drum?
Answer:
First of all, there is no drum but rather a brake
rotor. To remove the brake pads, remove the
caliper assembly free of the rotor and then remove the
pads from the caliper assembly.
Question:
1990 Lexus-ES 250 2.5 - V-6 mileage: 96,000.
I am working on my car and the brakes go to the floor. I
bled the brakes, and road tested the car 3 times.
I checked the brake booster, which checked out ok.
The brakes held for a couple of weeks then started going
to the floor but would hold if you pumped the brakes so
I replaced the master cylinder. I re-bled the
system 3 more times and the brakes hold if you pump them
but not on the norm. I don't normally work
on foreign vehicles so I am not all that familiar with
them I am told by some of my friends that LEXUS AND
TOYOTA had bad brake systems in the early 90's. I
would appreciate any help that you can provide-- before
my wife hurts me FOR her car.
Answer:
If when you bled the brake system there was air in the
rear brakes, then the rear cylinders may be faulty
allowing air to get into the system when the parking
brake is applied. Also, check the operation of the
rear parking brake.
Question:
93 Lexus LS 400 V8 mileage: 51,000. I noticed a
"humming" sound when turning to right or left. Took into
my mechanic who said fluid was low due to leak in rack
and pinion. They want about a $1000 to replace.
A friend suggested trying an additive to soften the
seals. It might buy me a few months. Make
sense to you? Is it ok to add when level is full?
In addition, how do you feel about rebuilt racks.
Do you know if this is widespread in Lexus? 50,000
miles seems a little premature for this quality make.
Answer:
We do not recommend an additive like the one your
friend suggested because it softens the seals in the
pump and the power steering hoses. Do not over
fill your power steering reservoir. It you intend
on repairing the rack in a few months, just keep the
reservoir full in the mean time. Rebuilt power
steering racks, if done by a quality rebuilder, are
fine. Your problem is not generally a problem with
your model car to our knowledge.
Question:
1994 ES300 V6 mileage: 77,000. My right headlight
has condensation inside which makes the glass foggy and
damp and therefore does not throw as much light out as
it should. In order to pass state inspection (I
wish to sell it soon) the dealership tells me I must
replace the whole wraparound light unit at a cost of
$539, plus $69 labor. They said the seal has come
undone. I maintain they should just be able to
replace the seal, and wipe off the glass. They say
no, the whole unit must be replaced. The
condensation is a result of a high powered washing, and
happened once before, but eventually disappeared on its
own. Night vision is still excellent, even with
the fog, but I do understand that it diminishes the
lighting distance. My question is this: Is
there a substantially cheaper way to correct this
problem than the suggestion by the dealership (replace
the whole unit.) The car is otherwise in
exceptional shape, inside and out, and has been very
well maintained. Thanks in advance for your
advice!
Answer:
As a temporary fix, try removing the light bulb and
socket from the back of the lens assembly. With a
hairdryer, warm up the front of the lens to drive out
the moisture. Be careful when washing your car not
to get more water in the lamp assembly.
Question: 91 Lexus ls 400 mileage:
140,000. The car sounds like it needs oil all the time.
Every mechanic says it's something different. From
valves to lifters, which do you think it will be and
will it be better to fix or get a rebuilt engine?
Answer: You may be better off to get a
rebuilt engine considering the mileage on your car. We
have found patching a high mileage engine for one
problem only to find a new one.
Question: 1995 Lexus ES300 3.0 liter
mileage: 86,000. Hello. There is a rattling noise, which
seemingly comes from the rear passenger side area. This
noise only occurs when I am traveling over small bumps
or uneven pavement. I have removed everything from the
trunk & test driven the car & still get the noise. To
describe the noise, it almost feels and sounds like a
rapid low dribble of a basketball. Any ideas?
Answer: Several things may be the cause of
your noise. Check the rubber bushings on the struts also
the bushings on the rear suspension. It is possible the
struts themselves are making the noise
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