Automobile / Lexus

Lexus Repair Questions and Answers

Answer: Do a pressure check of the high side of the power steering pump. You will probably find low pressure which would indicate that the pump is faulty.

Question: 1993 Lexus ES 300 6 cyl mileage: 59,000. As a former mechanic, I have maintained my Lexus myself since I bought it new. My problem is this, a substantial steering wheel vibration at 62 mph+. I had wheels balanced and rebalance. That did not help. Bought 4 new tires and that did not help. I jacked car up and ran front wheels and found right front wheel not running true. I replaced both side CV half shafts with (new axles and cv joints). This did not help either. I replaced rotors and right front hub and wheel bearing to no avail. I have tried different wheels, which did not help. The car has never been in an accident. What's left to cause problem? Center support? Transmission?

Answer: Check the lower ball joints on the front-end. We will bet you will find that they are loose and the cause of your vibration problem

Question: 1990 Lexus LS 400 V-8 mileage: 128,000. My mechanic is replacing the ECM unit for this car. He is an honest, smart guy. However, he and I cannot find the location of this unit in the car. We ordered the part from a salvage location (a new one would be over $2000!) but no one can tell us where it is located. The ECM seems to have been moved by Toyota several times during the evolution of this car. Evidently the 1990 model has a different location than the mid-year 1991. Can you help?

Answer: We believe it is located behind the right side of the dash to the left of the ABS control unit as you face the dash.

Question: 1992 Lexus ES300 6 cyl mileage: 65,000. I am completely stumped on this problem. It's nigh on a year now, and neither I nor any mechanics have been able to resolve it. The engine overheats when the thermostat is installed. When the thermostat is removed, it holds a normal temperature. When it overheats, the scalding water comes out of the small hose leading to the water reservoir. So, the radiator cap is relieving the interior section and permitting the hot water to escape. What is causing this? There, that's all the question I have. But let me explain what I've done to try to eliminate the problem. 1. Have already bought three thermostats - one from Pep Boys for Lexus, one from Toyota and one from Western Auto. 2. Have installed the thermostats with the spring assembly toward the engine, and the rubber seal on the circumference of the thermostat. 3. Have bought three different radiator caps (one was actually defective). All caps are made for Lexus with a 16-psi relief pressure. 4. Had radiator removed and manually cleaned by professional radiator shop. 5. Replaced the two main hoses to and from radiator. 6. When checked with pressure gauge on radiator water fill section, there are no leaks in the system. 7. Water does not leak from the system. 8. Temperature sensor on thermostat housing has been checked and is working fine. When temperature increases, hydraulic fan is increased in speed and blows like hades. 9. Short circuited hydraulic fan sensor to keep fan activated at full speed when system was full of water. Driving car lasted about 5 minutes until engine completely overheated into red zone. 10. Strangely enough, I placed the thermostat in the engine last night, and other than a slight overheating of the system for about 20 seconds, I was able to drive the car for over an hour with no apparent over temperature condition. The next morning, however, I checked the water and it was low. Took about 2 quarts to fill. This may have been due to not completely filling the system the night before. 11. Checked both thermostats today in hot water on the stove. Both opened at about 190C so I'm guessing that they both work. They are both new. 12. If I drive the car without a thermostat, I never have an overheating problem, nor does the car lose water. 13. A new water pump was installed last year. 14. New belts were installed last year. What are some possible things to check to resolve this mystery? Is there anything in the engine section where the thermostat housing is attached, which is mechanical and can be damaged? As you can see, I'm at a loss for a solution to this problem. No one has been able to resolve it, and it's now over one year. This car was not well cared for in the past and my mechanic changed the pistons, rings, bearings and seals in the motor, along with the water pump. Valves were cleaned and the heads milled slightly for flatness. This car apparently had this problem before I bought it. Someone has installed an electric fan with silicone sealant on the a/c radiator. We've disconnected the fan, but can't get it off due to the bonding of the silicone. While I would like to think that this has something to do with the engine overheating, I know it doesn't. It's just an eyesore and something that will eventually be removed. So, if you are the genie with the magic solution, please, please let me know! Hoping that you guys are better at solving this than the mechanics down here.

Answer: Considering all the parts you have replaced and the tests you have done, the only thing that we can think of is that you have a leaky head gasket problem or a cracked head. Your mechanic will know how to check for these problems.

Question: 1993 Lexus 300c 6-cyl mileage: 120,000. Just wanted to ask you if a catalytic converter overheats to the point where it is so hot it is igniting the bottom undercoat of a car along with a slight oil leak, just to make the point the converter is really red hot, anyway, isn't there a possibility that the converter becomes damaged? Besides testing the emissions to see, if they are within parameters is there any other form of diagnostics on catalytic converters. My problem is that the car bottom caught on fire as a result to the converter overheating. No doubt the oil leak has to be fixed, as well as any problem the car was having to make the converter overheat, but what about the converter itself? A converter for my car runs approximately nine hindered dollars. How can I really know if my car needs to have one replaced or has been damaged and will need replacement soon?

Answer: It is difficult to say if your catalytic converter is okay from here. The converters are made to run hot but if they are severely overheated, they can be damaged. We suspect the cause of the converter overheating would be in the emission control system, possibly an air control valve that is not functioning properly. Another possibility would be a leaky fuel injector or a faulty fuel pressure regulator that would cause the engine to run rich. To test for a plugged converter, drill a small hole in the exhaust pipe right before the catalytic converter. Install a temporary hose fitting and attach a long rubber hose and a 0 to 10 pound pressure gauge. With the gauge inside the car, drive up a hill or accelerate and read the pressure. Normal is 2 to 3 pounds, restricted 4 pounds or higher. The drawback to this method is the small hole will need to be welded shut after the test; a minor job if you have a welder.

Question: 1997 Lexus LS 400 4.0 MFI mileage: 40,000. The valves on the right bank of my Lexus had to be adjusted at 38,000 miles. The dealer did nothing to the left bank, as they said no valve noise was audible, however I still hear noise. Should I be having this type of problem with my Lexus with such low mileage, or I am I over-reacting a bit. The reasons the dealer gave me for the problem...I just didn't buy. Please help me if you can. Is a mere adjustment just a band-aid repair that will cost dearly after warranty has run out? I feel that the problem my be much deeper (hydraulic lifter defect)?

Answer: Our experience with the Lexus engine has been very good. The chance that you have hydraulic lifter problems is remote. Check for exhaust leaks as they sometimes mimic what sounds like valve noise.

Question:  1995 LEXUS ES-300  mileage: 75,000.   What is the manufacturer's specified replacement interval for brake rotors?

Answer:  There is no specified replacement interval for brake rotors.  They should be replaced when they are below the factory minimum thickness size.

Answer:    We are sorry, but due to the large volume of questions we receive, we do not have time to print, scan and email diagrams.  A Mitchell or Chilton auto repair manual will have diagrams showing what you are looking for.  The manuals also give step-by-step instructions.  The Repair Manuals page is a good source for purchase of make and model specific online repair information.

Question:  1991 Lexus LS400 V-8 mileage: 105,000.  The shifter will not engage back in the parked position.  My son forced it out of the parked position.  The key will not come out of the ignition until you disconnect the battery.   The shift release button will not let it go back in the parked position.  Please help.

Answer:    Disassemble the lock mechanism and inspect for worn or broken parts.

Question:  1994 Lexus  mileage: 94,000.   How do you take the brake pads loose from the drum?

Answer:   First of all, there is no drum but rather a brake rotor.  To remove the brake pads, remove the caliper assembly free of the rotor and then remove the pads from the caliper assembly.

Answer:    If when you bled the brake system there was air in the rear brakes, then the rear cylinders may be faulty allowing air to get into the system when the parking brake is applied.  Also, check the operation of the rear parking brake.

Question:  93 Lexus LS 400 V8 mileage: 51,000.  I noticed a "humming" sound when turning to right or left. Took into my mechanic who said fluid was low due to leak in rack and pinion.  They want about a $1000 to replace.  A friend suggested trying an additive to soften the seals.  It might buy me a few months.  Make sense to you?  Is it ok to add when level is full?  In addition, how do you feel about rebuilt racks.  Do you know if this is widespread in Lexus?  50,000 miles seems a little premature for this quality make.

Answer:   We do not recommend an additive like the one your friend suggested because it softens the seals in the pump and the power steering hoses.  Do not over fill your power steering reservoir.  It you intend on repairing the rack in a few months, just keep the reservoir full in the mean time.  Rebuilt power steering racks, if done by a quality rebuilder, are fine.  Your problem is not generally a problem with your model car to our knowledge.

Question:  1994 ES300 V6 mileage: 77,000.  My right headlight has condensation inside which makes the glass foggy and damp and therefore does not throw as much light out as it should.  In order to pass state inspection (I wish to sell it soon) the dealership tells me I must replace the whole wraparound light unit at a cost of $539, plus $69 labor.  They said the seal has come undone.  I maintain they should just be able to replace the seal, and wipe off the glass.  They say no, the whole unit must be replaced.  The condensation is a result of a high powered washing, and happened once before, but eventually disappeared on its own.  Night vision is still excellent, even with the fog, but I do understand that it diminishes the lighting distance.  My question is this:  Is there a substantially cheaper way to correct this problem than the suggestion by the dealership (replace the whole unit.)  The car is otherwise in exceptional shape, inside and out, and has been very well maintained.  Thanks in advance for your advice!

Answer:    As a temporary fix, try removing the light bulb and socket from the back of the lens assembly.  With a hairdryer, warm up the front of the lens to drive out the moisture.  Be careful when washing your car not to get more water in the lamp assembly.

Question:  91 Lexus ls 400 mileage: 140,000. The car sounds like it needs oil all the time. Every mechanic says it's something different. From valves to lifters, which do you think it will be and will it be better to fix or get a rebuilt engine?

Answer:  You may be better off to get a rebuilt engine considering the mileage on your car. We have found patching a high mileage engine for one problem only to find a new one.

Question:  1995 Lexus ES300 3.0 liter mileage: 86,000. Hello. There is a rattling noise, which seemingly comes from the rear passenger side area. This noise only occurs when I am traveling over small bumps or uneven pavement. I have removed everything from the trunk & test driven the car & still get the noise. To describe the noise, it almost feels and sounds like a rapid low dribble of a basketball. Any ideas?

Answer: Several things may be the cause of your noise. Check the rubber bushings on the struts also the bushings on the rear suspension. It is possible the struts themselves are making the noise

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