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Jeep
Grand Cherokee
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Question:
1999 Jeep Cherokee mileage: 100,000. My son has a Jeep
Cherokee that we have done a good amount of work to. We
are down to the last problem and are stumped. The
alternator is putting out about 14 volts and the battery
is steady at 12 volts. The volt meter in the dash reads
at best 12 volts and whenever any light or accessory is
used it drops to below 9 volts. We have used a volt
meter to check everything and we keep coming back to a
short. If you connect a voltmeter to between the
negative post on the battery and ground the other lead
to the chassis it read 0 volts. Turn any lights or
accessory like the rear defog and the volts go as high
as 6 volts. This would indicate a short. Problem is we
can not find it. It has to be in a main line because any
item that uses power adds to the short volts. Any help
would be great.
Answer:
The first thing we would check, based on the
circumstances that you have described, would be the
ground wires to see that they are in place and making a
good connection, especially the ones to the body.
Question: 2003 Jeep Cherokee
Mileage: 24,000 I realize you have probably answered
this question over 1000 times and I apologize for being
the 1001st, but I need to know if I will get better life
out of Raybestos rotors on my Jeep 2003 Grand Cherokee.
Will Raybestos give me better service than the OEM? I am
currently at 24K and had the brake discs replace at
dealer at 11,500. Now they want me to pay and won't
cover under the warranty.
Answer: We have found some brake
discs to wear quicker than others; steel seems softer
with some brands. We know some car manufacturers alloy
their cast iron differently than others which could
account for the accelerated wear. Another factor is the
brake pad. Some appear to be more abrasive than others
causing the discs to wear out quicker. We have had
success using OEM brands like PBR and Akebono. The Bosch
pads seem to wear a little faster, but work just fine.
As for your question, is one brake disc better than
another? When we replace rotors, we use OEM parts
like Brembo or PBR, when you use quality parts you seem
to have better luck. You can find these and many other
parts for you Jeep priced at wholesale levels at
www.eautpartstore.com
Question: 2002 Jeep Cherokee
Mileage: 46,000. My Jeep recently began dropping oil
pressure to below 10 psi at idle, making the check
gauges light come on. We took it to the dealer, they
checked the sending unit which was fine and ended up
replacing the oil pump. For a couple of weeks the
pressure was between 13-15 psi at idle (we were told by
the mechanic that that was ok) and now again the
pressure has begun to drop to 10 psi or less at idle
causing the check gauges light to come on again. The
vehicle is running fine otherwise. Any ideas?
Answer: With 46,000
miles, it is possible but not probable that you have
excessive wear in the engine bearings that would cause
the low oil pressure at idle. 10 psi at idle while the
engine is hot is acceptable though not preferred. Verify
that the oil pressure gauge in the car is reading
correctly. This can be done with a separate mechanical
gauge. Also, make sure you are using the proper weight
oil recommended by the manufacturer from a name brand
oil company.
Question: 1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee
mileage: 123,000. I have full time
all wheel drive, it like binds up and snaps from the
rear and then from the front and just turning in a
parking lot it acts like it would be in low range 4
wheel drive the way it jumps. Could it be the viscous
coupling? How or is there a way to check or test it?
Answer: It really takes an expert to
do the testing but you certainly have the symptoms of
viscous coupling failure.
Question: 1999 Jeep Cherokee,
mileage: 123,000. All six connecting rod bearings failed
but the main bearings look like new. All crankshaft
bearings are original. Oil pump looks like new. No
sludge in engine. Was using 10W-40 oil when oil pressure
started to drop to 19 psig at 2000 rpm and then dropped
to 11 at idle. I also had added PTF to the oil. I
switched to 15W-40 then to another grade of oil but no
change in oil pressure. Then I opened the engine and
found totally failed connecting rod bearings. Can you
suggest why connecting rod bearings failed and
everything else seems to be in great shape?
Answer: It is not unusual to find
connecting rod bearings with more wear than main
bearings. The reason is that the rod bearings are much
smaller than the main bearings and they take the load
from the pistons going up and down. As for your oil
pressure, check the oil pressure release spring and
valve for proper operation.
Question: 2000 Cherokee Sport
mileage: 57,000. Starter would crank, but engine
would not fire up for a few seconds, or not start at all
on the first try. Dealership said that there was a bad
fuel sensor. We had sensor replaced and problem
persisted. Dealership had us pay for a fuel system
cleaning, which did nothing. Dealership then replaced
fuel pump, saying that the first one was definitely
bad--still no change. One week later, nearly 7,000 miles
since the problem began, they put a third fuel pump in,
saying that the second one had gone bad. Again, there
has been no change whatsoever. It seems as though they
can't think of any other solution. Do you have any
ideas? We want to make sure the problem is fixed before
our warranty runs out. Thank you.
Answer: We would look at the fuel
pressure regulator. It may have developed a pinhole leak
in the diaphragm allowing raw gas to be drawn into the
engine.
Question: 1999 Jeep Cherokee
mileage: 100,000. Will crank over, but will not start.
Has no spark. Added new distributor cap and rotor, still
no spark. Checked coil with an ohmmeter and seems ok
(0.6 ohm between + and -. 6,500 ohms between + and
anode. Infinity to core), suspected the ignition module,
but it tested ok at a parts store. Ignition Module was
replaced 2 years ago. Engine Crankshaft sensor was
replaced 3 years ago. New plugs and plug wires 1 year
ago. What do you think?
Answer: More than likely the
crankshaft sensor has failed.
Question: 1986 Jeep Cherokee
mileage: 167,000. I am having a problem with my brake
system. Recently I replaced the front pads myself, and
when I went to bleed the air from the system, I could
not get one of the bleeder valves open as it was
stripped. And so to fix this I had two new calipers
installed, one to replace the busted valve and the other
to match. Since then, I have bled the system twice, and
both times a lot of air has come out. I have no idea how
air is getting in. The pedal feels spongy, and makes a
hissing sound when depressed. If held down firmly it
will slowly work its way to the floor. The brakes work
decent, it's just that they aren't firm. Also, when
applied the brakes make a high-pitched squealing sound.
My book tells me that this is the wear sensors rubbing
against the rotors or something but that should have
been fixed when I replaced the pads, right? Please help
me!
Answer: The brake pedal slowly
working it's way to the floor would be caused by a
faulty master cylinder. The spongy brake pedal is
probably due to air in the system. The brake system
should be pressure bled to flush the air out.
Question: 1991 Jeep Cherokee
mileage: 81,000. The "humming" noise that I hear every
time I step on the brakes continues to come on with a
lot more frequency. It stays on for a few seconds, then
it comes on again. I realize the noise is normal. What
worries me is the frequency that it comes on. This
problem just started about two weeks ago. Can you give
me any clues? Thanks for the help.
Answer: The humming noise may be a
vacuum leak in the power brake booster. If your Jeep is
equipped with ABS brakes, the ABS unit may have failed.
Question: 1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee
mileage: 87,000. My jeep is in the shop for a failed
fuel pump. The authorized Jeep dealership says that the
plastic fuel tank has debris in it, due to a corroding
plastic fuel tank, and this is what's causing the fuel
pump to fail (2nd time in a week). The mechanic
discourages a simple flush of the tank ($222) and
recommends a new fuel tank ($500), while admitting that
such corrosion of a plastic tank is rare. Should I take
the Jeep elsewhere? He says if the new pump fails again
due to trash in the tank, my failure to have a new tank
installed would void the warranty on the new fuel pump
($475). Recommendations?
Answer: We have never heard of a
corroding plastic fuel tank, but we suppose it may be
possible. What is more than likely your problem is that
the first fuel pump that was installed was defective.
Also, check for voltage to the pump under load and
proper ground connections.
Question: 1993 Jeep
Grand Cherokee mileage: 51,000. I've changed the
trans filter and fluid. Shortly after, I checked it and
the oil looked like pancake syrup. Was not thick but
discolored. How can I drain the converter? And, how do
you adjust the clutches.
Answer: Clutch packs
are not adjustable. The transmission fluid after service
can look discolored because only half of the fluid is
change during service - the other half is in the
converter. Some torque converters have drain plugs, some
do not. If your car has a drain plug, the job is easy,
if it does not, it is very difficult. Changing half the
fluid will prolong the life of your transmission.
Question:
1997 Jeep
Cherokee mileage:
200,000 - will not
start. Please Help!!!!
My 97 Cherokee has over
200,000 miles but was
still running well. One
day it didn't start but
after playing with the
shifter it started. Next
day, nothing. There is
no clicking noise when
we try to start but the
lights all come on and
the headlights don't dim
when we try to crank.
Any suggestions??? We
called a garage and they
want 275 dollars if it's
the starter... I want to
avoid paying this if
possible.
Please help.
Answer:
The first thing I would
check is the neutral
start switch. If you
have to play with the
gear selector, this is
very likely the cause of
the problem. If the
switch checks out ok,
then your starter is
likely to blame.

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Cherokee-1 /
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